Denim Terminology and Links - Page 6

i never understood what was so special about having the hem extend over to the cuff of the jeans.

I share your bewilderment about whatever it is you are saying.

dry ?= raw (And shouldn't this thread stay pinned?)

Yes. Dry is the same thing as raw.

Both links in the first post are broken.

You're not wrong Just to add a little to both topics ; Crocking is the general term used to describe the rub-off of colour from one fabric to another surface, and is not indigo specific. It can apply, for example, to a red pigment dyed twill crocking onto a white leather sofa. Red being a notorious crocker. It is true that resin will prevent, or rather, lessen crocking to a certain extent by covering the surface of the indigo with a polyurethane or acrylic resin and by extending that logic, that dark blue denim jeans untreated by resin tend to crock a lot more. However, as always, there are exceptions, notably 45rpm's deep purple-blue Jomon's & it's brethren (There's an even more expensive, light-weight leftie, natural indigo 45rpm with the same dye holding properties) that hardly crock at all. The resin is used for various effects and can be applied via spray or by dip and then polymerised (hardened) by baking in an oven or on grills, rather like the ones used by kebab shops As well as preserving the dark indigo by protecting it against abrasion, it can act as a stiffener, like starch, to hold the semi-permanent 3D whiskers that are commonly seen on jeans this century. Resin can also be coloured, such as Adriano Goldschmied's use of metallic resins in his Goldsign collection. There are downsides. By adding stiffness you add brittleness. It's easy to over cook the resin, rendering the denim brittle and fragile (again, much like over starched jeans), lowering the tear strength and making them prone to ripping. This leads to higher risks in production of wastage, and higher customer returns at the retail end. Resin coating also effects the permeability of jeans, both to air and water, so that you'll sweat more in heavy coated jeans. For further info, there's a nice patent description on the World Intellectual Property Organisation's site regarding the use of resin - in this case, an acrylic resin by Cognis, the Italian chemical company. http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?...6&DISPLAY=DESC

Maybe because this thread is like four years old?

Sure, but it's a sticky and the first post is read daily by many people. Besides, if I didn't post, ringring wouldn't have remembered to reply to dongeri after all these years :P

if anybody happens to check on this thread, what is the yoke? is it that little strip seam between the waistband and back pockets? i'm guessing that's what it is but i'd like to confirm it

Yes, you are correct about the yoke. Here is a link that shows a picture: http://www.oki-ni.com/features/anato...natomyofajean/

Thanks, and also what exactly is 'loom chatter'? I've heard everything from the unprocessed cotton 'hairs' to the slub of a weave.