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Denim Terminology and Links - Page 2

post #16 of 86
Mercerising is more costly compared to not mercerising a denim. Obviously it's an extra process denim has to go through (done at the end of the denim making process), increasing costs and time. - and one that is deemed unnecessary for many consumers (eg. if a denim is going to be bleached, super stonewashed, handbrushed, punctured, crinkled, resin'd etc, the benefits of the mercerising will be largely lost). As far as I know, the yarn made to weave denim is never mercerised before weaving. Presumably it must have something to do with the peculiarities of indigo dyeing, which is very different from producing shirtings and other 'fine' yarn dyed fabrics.
Ahh, okay, I must have misread your previous post. Agreed that it is more costly compared to not treating denim.
post #17 of 86
Caustic soda being a strong alkali, I would assume that it would cause the yarn to swell, which would make for difficult weaving, and would defeat the purpose of the mercerising in the first place, which is to also create a stronger fabric. Treatment at the finished denim stage would eliminate this problem, apart from providing the lustre.
post #18 of 86
Thread Starter 
Okay - updated it with some new stuff. Thanks for the input - let's make this the best denim glossary on the net.
post #19 of 86
Ringring, could I wash my denim with caustic soda to do them a mercerisation?
post #20 of 86
Some other stuff, add if you think useful: Crosshatch denim (a cross weave of warp and weft in simple cross hatch pattern, can't find many of this, the last time I "checked", although Armani and Hugo Boss makes nice cross hatch jeans) Stretch denim (100% of the warp with 97% of the weft, or more warp less filling, the other 3% made up of lycra or some other synthetic) Bull denim (denim without the indigo, some like it really raw instead of well done) Loom (shuttle/projectile/etc and differences between them) Acid washing Stone washing Sandblasting Microsanding Whiskering Overdye
post #21 of 86
Thread Starter 
Okay I renamed this topic because I want to start putting in links to places we deem important for things denim. I'll start it off with some galleries of worn jeans.
post #22 of 86
Here's some definitions from Cake's list: Acid washing The quick definition can be summed up in one word, "horrible" LOL. Aka "Snow wash". This technique reared it head up in Italy in the late 80s. Basically you soak your pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with the jeans. Then neutralise. Stone washing French husband & wife team, Marithe & Francois Girbaud claim to have pioneered this technique of washing jeans in a machine with small pumice stones. Independently, the Japanese jeans company, Edwin also make this claim. The pumice stones are generally taken from southern Italy (the whitest and most expensive), Turkey and Indonesia (darkest and cheapest). Some claim that washing jeans with dark stones give the jeans a 'dirty' look, although this can be countered somewhat with extra rinsing in the laundry. Sandblasting As it sounds, compressed airguns shoot sand onto jeans to create abrasion. Sometimes a 'tracer' dye is added so that the 'shooter' can more accurately judge the volume and accuracy. Very fast, but quite a clumsy way to achieve fading. Microsanding Sanding is basically done 3 ways: Sandblasting, as above. Machine sanding - just like machines that you'd use to sand a wooden table. Handsanding aka Handbrushing - just a piece of folded fine sandpaper. All three methods are used in various ways, on the flat (tables, ironing boards), on the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') and various templates can be used to create a 3D effect. Any sanding can be enhanced with chemical whiteners. Whiskering Also known as 'Cat's Whiskers'. These are the crease lines around the crotch. Industrially these can be done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, handsanding and abrasive rods. Same techniques are used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee). Overdye Basically dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of colour. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look. Also can be applied with spraygun or paintbrush for local colouring (ie. if you wanted just 'dirty knees').
post #23 of 86
Also Enzyme wash The environmentally friendly way to stone wash jeans, through the application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. No pumice stones are used. When the desired colour is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. A final rinsing and softening cycle is next, before the jeans are ready to be sold. Still frowned upon by companies such as Howies, who prefer to use rubberised "Eco" Balls to wash their jeans.
post #24 of 86
Thread Starter 
Updated again - thanks for makin it easier on me guys.
post #25 of 86
RIngring and Cake, thanks for helping out so much. These tems art bandied around all the time, and a lot of people don't really know what they mean (including otherwise informed retailers.)
post #26 of 86
Hope this link can add more terms: check it out Brian. also, the word "selvage" or "selvedge" comes from "self-edge", refering to the edge which is clean
post #27 of 86
Thread Starter 
That's very interesting, Geowu (about selvage/selvedge). I'd never heard that before.
post #28 of 86
Nice list Brian. However:
.... The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1976, before Cone Mills sold their shuttle looms (mostly to Japan).
Not totally correct, Cone Mills still have some of their old shuttle looms and are using those to produce some of the Levis Vintage Clothing repros.
Levi's were using selvage denim in their 501's up until 1982 A couple of years before LVC was launched I read that Levi's were trying to buy shuttle looms in Japan. A good source of info on vintage denim
post #29 of 86
Thread Starter 
Thanks John, I just realized that myself while looking through the booklet that coems with LVC jeans.
post #30 of 86
.... Bull denim (denim without the indigo, some like it really raw instead of well done) ....
was any progress ever made with the development of colored cotton? several years ago i heard about people working on a strain that was blue, right off the plant.
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