Ten best jeans

Manton, are you perhaps a Wolfe disciple, in that you own no denim at all? Or do you satisfy the proletariat urge within yourself and own at least *one* pair of jeans?

You lose. I own none. Haven't since high school, possibly before. It's been so long, I honestly can't remember.

I wonder if Wolfe's son has been raised a dandy. Is he a budding dandy, similarly a client of Nicolosi and Kabbaz, or has he rebelled and gone grunge? Or something between the two?

You lose. I own none. Haven't since high school, possibly before. It's been so long, I honestly can't remember.

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That's so sad. I am nearly tempted to send you a nice pair. If you are in NYC, get yourself down to APC and get yourself a pair of Standards, please.

Oddly enough, am I the sole wearer of Theory denim? I know the brand takes A LOT of flack for being a mid-tier designer with suspect construction, yet I find their straight leg (Tristan cut) denim with a little stretch and minimal detailing the perfect match for my rather conservative tastes. Tough to find at discount, but when they can be located, the price really drops (<$50). Oh well, at least I won't be competing with everyone else.

Oh, and I would like to add one more vote for Helmut Lang. I think the classic wash, raw denim, straight leg HL would probably be the best bet for Manton.

That's so sad.  I am nearly tempted to send you a nice pair.  If you are in NYC, get yourself down to APC and get yourself a pair of Standards, please.

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I don't like tight clothes. That's why I gave up on jeans.

(Manton) I don't like tight clothes. That's why I gave up on jeans.

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Next time I see you I'll bring a pair of my not-tight, bespoke, Kabbaz 10oz. denim jeans. No gold thread, no exterior labels, no rivets. Although I must admit that on the 8oz. Summer version I almost succumbed to the gold-thread bit. OK, fellow members: Now wearing non-bespoke Kevlar vest and prepared to defend.

I think the GAP 1969 series jeans are worth mentioning as well. Those the new washes this yr leave something to be desired.

I prefer the energie, big flare, extremely tight, ones that I haven't been able to find for some time. My old pair got ripped. They made me into a eunoch for a year.

I don't like tight clothes. That's why I gave up on jeans.

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Then try the APC Anglaise cut. Or the Paper Denim LTD model. Or the Da'mage cut. There are a lot of good looking jeans out there are will not make you a eunuch.

I prefer the energie, big flare, extremely tight, ones that I haven't been able to find for some time. My old pair got ripped. They made me into a eunoch for a year.

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I hate energie, but I have a pair of von Dutch Slidders in a size 32 with an extremely low rise and big flare that may fit you. They are in a very basic dark wash. I never wear them anymore, and am willing to part with them for a pittance. PM me if you are interested.

Oddly enough, am I the sole wearer of Theory denim? I know the brand takes A LOT of flack for being a mid-tier designer with suspect construction, yet I find their straight leg (Tristan cut) denim with a little stretch and minimal detailing the perfect match for my rather conservative tastes. Tough to find at discount, but when they can be located, the price really drops (<$50). Oh well, at least I won't be competing with everyone else.

Oh, and I would like to add one more vote for Helmut Lang. I think the classic wash, raw denim, straight leg HL would probably be the best bet for Manton.

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Huh. I don't know if Theory is that mid-tier. I have a long sleeve shirt in cotton that can be machine washed and dried and a pair of linen pants that as well can be machine washed and dried and I am extremely impressed with the quality for the price paid (on sale of course). As well Theory is always my arguing point regarding matched shirting patterns, if Theory shirts that are made in China can have matched patterns for the $195 charged; T&A can as well match patterns for the $295+ they charge.

Jon.

I think the GAP 1969 series jeans are worth mentioning as well. Those the new washes this yr leave something to be desired.

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Actually everything GAP this year has something left to be desired. WTF happened to all the clothes? It's like they have 20% of the quantity they used to stock mid-last-year.

Jon.

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What is this mysterious brand/model? Levi's 517 boot cut in 32x34. I have to wash them now because they smell like a Guitarwolf concert, so we'll see how they come through that. Unfortunately, though, they are made of the crappy Levi's fabric. My question is this: is there another model of jeans cut just like that, or maybe with a slimmer lower leg, only made out of good selvedge denim? Are the APC standards anything like this? I still haven't gotten around to ordering my pair of those.
I would say that the Anglaise fit is closer to the 517 than the New (or old) Standard. Good luck, Fok.
I strongly disagree with this. I am a big fan of this cut. I own two pair of vintage 517 jeans, and 6 pairs of 517 cords, all sized 34 x 32. I just bought a pair of APC Anglaise, sized 33. The fit is nothing like the 517. 517's are high waisted, fitted fairly close from the waist through the knee, and subtly flared below the knee. The APC Anglaise are low waisted, and very baggy throughout. I can't keep them up without a belt. The waist measures about 2 inches bigger than the marked size. They are actually too baggy for my taste. I really wish I had bought the Unisex or New Standard. j - if you want to find good 517's, you gotta look on ebay. Once you know your size, you can find nice vintage pairs, usually pretty cheap. I found a nearly deadstock pair there recently, dating from the 1970's, for $10. Alternately, Denime makes a 517 reproduction - the "517 type." See www.e-denime.com. Not available in the US, from what I can tell. Also, the Helmut Lang Classic Boot Cut is similar to the 517, but lower waisted and slightly narrower in the lower leg.

I strongly disagree with this. I am a big fan of this cut. I own two pair of vintage 517 jeans, and 6 pairs of 517 cords, all sized 34 x 32. I just bought a pair of APC Anglaise, sized 33. The fit is nothing like the 517. 517's are high waisted, fitted fairly close from the waist through the knee, and subtly flared below the knee. The APC Anglaise are low waisted, and very baggy throughout. I can't keep them up without a belt. The waist measures about 2 inches bigger than the marked size. They are actually too baggy for my taste. I really wish I had bought the Unisex or New Standard.

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I stand corrected. Thank you Baron for catching my mistake. I think that I had the 505 when I wrote my original post. They are two completely different cuts, and I always get the numbers mixed up for some reason. I would say that that Austin bootcut in the Levis Premium line, a cut which I believe is now no longer in production, is probably the closest affordable jean to what you are looking for, since it was actually inspired by the 517. If you can find the coveted wash (the first wash the Levi's premiums were made in) I would strongly advise you pick them up. i had a pair that I wore to tatters - they fit me grat too.

BTW, Baron sorry about your bad experience with the Anglaise. I guess that I just like my jeans to fit loose around my hips, and I always wear a belt. The 'Unisex" is just the old Standard, btw, and fit a lot like the Helmut Lang Bootcut.

I thought I might just sell the Anglaise on ebay at first, but I'm starting to warm to them. The low waist makes the bagginess easier to deal with, and the denim is very nice. The truth is, I'm very skinny below the waist, so slim cut jeans fit me like a regular cut, and loose cuts like the Anglaise make me look like MC Hammer. They kinda make me feel like I should cinch them at mid buttock over an oversized pair of boxers and accessorize with a gold chain and Raiders jersey. At 37, I may be too old to pull that off.

I also always wear a belt, but it usually serves to keep my pants from sliding down to my lower hips, rather than from sliding to my ankles, as the Anglaise would do. Anyways, that's the danger of buying clothes online. It's an educated guess at best. I could have just exchanged them really, but I thought they might shrink (even though I knew they were sanfordized.) I'll just keep wearing them and get in touch with my inner OG.