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Ticket pockets revisited

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
I was revisiting a thread started here by Vintage Gent about the ticket pockets on his Chan suit. Many thought they were too far apart. Manton, in particular, stated that he felt the bottom of the ticket pocket's flap should be about 1 and 1/4 inch above the bottom pocket's opening. The pockets themselves (that is, opening to opening) are supposed to be 3" apart, according to him. But ]this Isaia suit[/url] appears to have a larger space between ticket and regular pocket than Manton deemed appropriate. Comments?
post #2 of 25
Thread Starter 
Forgive the sloppy post. I can't make the damn imageshack thing work.
post #3 of 25
I have numerous ticket pockets on my various jackets and defer to my tailor in NY on all such matters, who's been doing this for half a century.  Measuring from the bottom of the ticket pocket flap to the top of the main pocket, on my jackets with straight pockets, the distance between the ticket pocket and the main pocket below it is falls between 1.75" and 2", and on those with angled pockets, the distance is around 1.5", so there's no one predetermined distance.  Also, with patterns, such as plaids or checks, the distance between the two pockets can be affected by the need to also match up the ticket pocket with the pattern, which takes precedent over all, and which can result in a ticket pocket that might be a bit closer or more distant form the main pocket than the specs above mentioned.  On some of my jackets, in fact, the ticket pocket is not perfectly aligned with the lower pocket, due to the pattern-matching thing.  Wouldn't get too worked up over it. Grayson
post #4 of 25
I also just measured the distance between the opening of the ticket pocket and that of the main pocket, and the distances, again varyng, are between 3.5" on slanted pockets and 3.75" to 4" on straight pockets. So, again, there is not one distance that is etched in stone. Grayson
post #5 of 25
Is it me, or is the gorge of the lapels in the original photo incredibly high? It looks like is on or over the shoulders.
post #6 of 25
Stu: I was going by standard measurements for a 42 coat (based, among other things, on some pattern drafting books I have).  Tailors adjust that sort of thing all the time, sometimes for the sake of proportion (differing heights and builds, etc.), sometimes for the sake of playing with the silhouette.   A quarter inch either way is not going to make a huge difference.  A half inch will be noticeable, but not necessarily "bad."  More than that either way, unless the guy is really tall or really short, is going to look "off."  In my opinion. The distance between those pockets looks fine to my eye, though I would move the TP foward by a hair, maybe 1/4".
post #7 of 25
Quote:
Is it me, or is the gorge of the lapels in the original photo incredibaly high? It looks like is on or over the shoulders.
No, that's pretty darn high.
post #8 of 25
I think the ticket pocket is too spaced apart form the principle pocket. In both the Italian and English suits / jackets I own which feature ticket pockets, the ticket pocket is much closer to the principle pocket, it is seemingly hovering above it. Jon.
post #9 of 25
Agree with Jon with regard to RTW, but am not in a position to controvert Marc with regard to bespoke. Here's an EBay example (a DB blazer I just purchased from A Harris: the ticket pocket is much closer to the main pocket): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW
post #10 of 25
Quote:
Agree with Jon with regard to RTW, but am not in a position to controvert Marc with regard to bespoke. Here's an EBay example (a DB blazer I just purchased from A Harris: the ticket pocket is much closer to the main pocket): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW
That's a NICE blazer. Every is good: button stance, gorge, tie space...simply perfect. Jon.
post #11 of 25
I wish someone would undo the top button on that Isaia. It looks like it is in pain. As to the t-pockets, I think it's a matter of proportion, but there is a range of acceptability as with most things. A longer narrower jacket could have a longer space between pockets than a short jacket, for the sake of preserving balance. The jacket in the picture looks very long, but it is because the sleeves are very short. The pockets look fine. I have seen jackets with the TP flap just overlapping the welt of the main pocket and it looked good to my eye. So I don't think there is really a hard-and-fast rule to be made/divined.
post #12 of 25
Quote:
Here's an EBay example (a DB blazer I just purchased from A Harris: the ticket pocket is much closer to the main pocket): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW
Good stuff..... Let us know how it fits. You should get a LOT of use out of this. I could even see it with dressy jeans and a turtleneck.
post #13 of 25
Thanks for the kind words about the new DB blazer, Jon and Tom. Will provide detail when it arrives from Andrew Harris.
post #14 of 25
GetSmart's Thick as Thieves jackets have ticket pocket flaps that are set back and significantly overlap the lower pocket: Thoughts?
post #15 of 25
I don't like the look of the overlap. Maybe I'd tuck in the ticket pocket flap.
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