Just tested 2 LE jackets hanging in my office and the chest seems fused on both. Â What's the difference between "basted" and fused? (and how can I tell the difference without deconstructing the jacket?) Â One jacket is 15 years old and the other is approximately 2 years old. Â BTW, I'm a devotee of LE, especially their trim-fit buttondown shirts, chinos, and polos (read the Sears/LE thread with interest as I think LE diversified their product line recently, but not in ways that appeal to me. e.g. it seems to me that thin faces often accompany a thin build, so why, oh why does LE not offer spread collars in trim fit???). Â Sorry for the off-topic rant.
There are plenty of folks on this site much more well-versed than I in suit construction, but I'll take a sophomoric stab at answering your question. Fusibles are interlinings, and paddings, that are heat set on to the fabric shells. Though they can last a long time, they can react differently than the fabric to cleaning temperatures, and can thus create puckers or misshapen surfaces and fabric. Plus, they move with the fabric, not necessarily with your body's contours. Canvassed linings (usually made of several layers of natural components like horsehair, cotton, and some blends) are sewn, or loosely basted ("placeholder stitches) in place, and then only at certain places. In effect, the piece is anchored in some places, and "floats" within the fabric shell (the layers of fabric). This helps the canvassing lay more naturally on your chest/torso, it responds to your natural contours, has great drape, can feel softer on you, is very durable, and due to its handcrafted placement, can cost quite a bit more than fusibles. Members on this forum can provide you with links to other threads with discussions on how to pinch fabric and detect canvas vs. fusible linings. I think fusibles are not that old (30-40 years?). Now, canvasses stuff is great. But that doesn't mean fusibles are trash by any means. Hope that helps a little.