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Working buttonholes on RTW suits - Page 3

post #31 of 47
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(Stu @ Mar. 23 2005,13:42) You guys have me wondering whether I should trust a tailor to cut working button holes in my new Isaia. The sleeves are basted, but I'm thinking of just having him sew them up.
Stu, As I said in a prior post,  I had to have the sleeves shorted on a new Isaia garment (buttons were not attached and buttonholes were not cut). My former tailor cut the buttonholes too far apart and the buttons don't kiss. The tailor said that the problem arose from how the Isaia suit was made. What I never figured out was whether this was an "Isaia" problem or a "tailor" problem. I suspect the latter. You're obviously better off being cautious on this issue, unless you're guaranteed the job will be right.
SS: I was remembering your warning when I posted that. But you see, the problem is that I will be walking around in a $2,600 suit, knowing that I have faux button holes. That will drive me nuts, although the other 3,999,999 people who live on this island won't know any better. But that's what being a OCD clothes horse will do to you.
post #32 of 47
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But you see, the problem is that I will be walking around in a $2,600 suit, knowing that I have faux button holes. That will drive me nuts
If it offers any solace, English tailors traditionally only make half the buttons on the sleeve working buttons, with the other half dummy buttons.  I've come across numerous Brits who don't even ask their tailors to make any working buttons.  For some reason, here in the US, working buttons are a big deal, but not necesarily elsewhere. So, in the rare event anyone asks you if you have working buttons, you just sniff back that your suit was made on Savile Row, where working buttons are so declasse. Grayson
post #33 of 47
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So, in the rare event anyone asks you if you have working buttons, you just sniff back that your suit was made on Savile Row, where working buttons are so declasse. Grayson
LOL. Reminds me of: Dorsia? Nobody goes there anymore.
post #34 of 47
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In what I guess is a gesture of one-upsmanship, I've been seeing otherwise intelligent men un-doing 2 and even 3 buttons out of the 4 buttons on *both* sleeves.  If someone really has an uncontrolled urge to un-button, just discreetly un-do one button on just one cuff.  If this is a contest, the winner was the fellow I saw recently who un-buttoned all 8 buttons on his sleeves.  No kidding.  Wonder what he had up his sleeve. Grayson
I've unbottoned all eight myself, and then rolled up the sleeves. It's an extra step, but a nice, dontcha think? But seriously: I've gotten working buttonholes on my Southwicks and J. Press suits and a Brooks Bros. tuxedo and even on my tweed jackets, RTW.
post #35 of 47
Thread Starter 
To clarify, I was referring to adding functional buttonholes to RTW suits with unfinished sleeves.  For some reason, this strikes me as somewhat aspirational in a bad way -- like you are trying to fool people into thinking your suit is bespoke.  That didn't stop me from getting working buttonholes for my RTW Canali, which turned out quite nicely.  (My 60-something-year-old Italian tailor subcontracted the work.)  Pretty pricey, though, so I'm still undecided about whether to get them for my newly purchased Greenfield Golden Fleece.
post #36 of 47
If you want to try something different, just have two buttons done on each sleeve. Whether working buttons or not, people-in-the-know will notice the unusual button design. If you un-do one of the two buttons, fuhgetaboutit, then you'll really get people to notice. My NY tailor suggested it for a camel hair sport coat he made for me and I really like the look. Just a suggestion. Grayson
post #37 of 47
By having 2 buttons done, you mean a la Brooks Bros.?
post #38 of 47
Along the lines of BB 2 button sleeve, although the buttons are placed slightly closer together than with BB, if I remember correctly (Recalling back to my old BB poplin suit days). Don't know if the distance thing should be an issue, however the bottom button (Try saying "bottom button" 10 times fast)is placed a bit higher from the bottom of the sleeve than the usual 1.25" Grayson
post #39 of 47
Though I would never unbutton my jacket sleeves under normal conditions, one of the interesting uses for working buttonholes is for clubbing, while you're dancing and it's warm. Unbutton them all and roll your sleeves up. Roll your shirt sleeves over them. It's as good a conversation starter as any for those of us who are interested in clothing. Some people introduce themselves because their sleeves roll up too. Others figure out what you did but want to know how you did it. Etc. Assuming you are clubbing in a place where people wear jackets that is. Will
post #40 of 47
Saw someone on 5th Avenue today who had just the 1st and 4th button buttoned...looked quite...interesting. koji
post #41 of 47
I thought we were talking about buying RTW suits with buttonholes on them already, so I voted no. Some Jil Sander suits come with extra buttons and no sleeve buttonholes or buttons. I assume this is to enforce the artisinal feel of her suits.
post #42 of 47
My new Kiton sportjacket came with unfinished sleeves, so I'm considering doing working buttonholes. Has anyone used Dynasty Tailors on 38th in NYC for working buttonholes, and if not, do we have a consensus on who would be the best to do it? For obvious reasons, I'd rather not screw it up. -s
post #43 of 47
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My new Kiton sportjacket came with unfinished sleeves, so I'm considering doing working buttonholes.  Has anyone used Dynasty Tailors on 38th in NYC for working buttonholes, and if not, do we have a consensus on who would be the best to do it? For obvious reasons, I'd rather not screw it up. -s
I'd take it to a Kiton tailor, either at the store or at BG. koji
post #44 of 47
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The thing is, working buttonholes, irrespective of the level of overall workmanship of the garment, are today an affectation... they really serve no practical purpose whatsoever.   Grayson
With all due respect, sleeve buttons also serve no function other than appearance, so I'm not sure that working buttonholes are any less practical.
post #45 of 47
sashae, I had a good experience with Barchi for sewing working buttonholes: http://www.in-newyorkmag.com/profile...hi_profile.htm for a Caruso suit I bought with unfinished sleeves. B
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