OK... The so-called New Savile Row is a mediatized phenomenon which started on the backs of several celebrity designer/tailors about twelve years ago. Richard James, who had been a well-received cult designer, opened his first stand-alone shop in a location that happened to be on Savile Row. In addition to his trademark colorful designs he offered bespoke tailoring at a then-reasonable price in conjunction with a more established SR house. Around the same time, Timothy Everest, a tailor who had served as assistant to legendary 60s Savile Row designer/tailor Tommy Nutter (whose firm made the suits 3 Beatles are wearing on the Abbey Road cover), opened a shop in Spitalfields, an area nowhere near Savile Row. Both shops offered an approachable and media-friendly take on bespoke tailoring, from shops that were bright (unlike the stereotypical SR shop) and funky to RTW lines that raised their profile in magazines, etc. (bespoke tailoring almost NEVER figures in a magazine shoot). A little while later came flamboyant designer/tailors like Ozwald Boateng, Marc Powell, Marc Griffiths, Serena Kelsey, Charlie Allen, etc. By the mid-1990s the British press were identifying a "new Savile Row" trend, and it is fair to say that some of these designer/tailors did help draw attention to the old tailoring traditions, even if they didn't have much to do with real bespoke. Cool Britannia's flash in the pan brought British style back into focus, while soon after the suit became sort of hip in a biz-caz backlash which has not yet completely hit the states. I use the virgule designer/tailors as many of the shops listed above are designers rather than tailors, ie the person whose name is on the shop doesn't actually know bespoke tailoring but rather designs particular silhouettes and a RTW line. Understandably this has led to ire from "real" Savile Row tailors. Certainly, the influx of designer shops into the Savile Row area (Oki-Ni, Jil Sander, the RL shop) has contributed to rising rents which make it ever harder for tailors to maintain a presence on the Row. This said, all the way back in the 1960s Tommy Nutter, no tailor he, had a shop on the Row where business partner Edward Sexton and colleagues made the suits. Also in the 1960s, John Pearse, who trained at defunct tailors Hawes and Curtis, ran a psychedelic clothing shop on the King's Road called Granny Takes a Trip. (Pearse is still around (Meard St) although Hawes and Curtis has been relaunched as a middle-market brand.) So there is a certain precedent for the bespoke designer, although it's decidedly overdone. Kilgour should be fined for aping Ozwald Boateng and calling its bespoke tailoring "bespoke couture". As to Richard James in particular, the RTW suits have little relation to the bespoke suits except the same rather nice cloth, all supposedly designed by Richard James. (While you can find similar versions of the more sober cloths it's safe to say no one else is ordering a lilac paisley suit cloth). The prices at all of these "new SR" shops have shot up and bespoke tailoring is really not a good deal at any of them. I have no acquaintance with RJ bespoke. The suits are nicely cut but the construction is middling (fused). The shirts are often gorgeous and are also well-cut, but horrendously expensive (150 pounds). They have nice cloth and nice buttons but construction isn't what you'd find in a good Jermyn St shirt, though it's not really the same market. The ties are handmade and are gorgeous; I think the quality is excellent although some disagree with me -- I'd say they're at the level of Charvet and about as delicate too. Socks are by Pantherella and are excellent; the cufflinks (I have 4 pair in glass, semiprecious and sterling) are inspired in design but have been knocked off everywhere, so the high price can be a putoff. Almost everything is made in Britain, so it's not quite like certain designers farming everything to China and pocketing a huge markup. The cashmere is quality and Scottish, although I don't think it's worth the high RJ price. The leathergoods (IMHO) are uniformly excellent (handmade belts, wallets, address books, etc.) Shoes are by Crockett and Jones and are uniquely designed; price is not any worse than one would pay at Polo Ralph Lauren. The leather jackets are gorgeous but very, very expensive. I have a mackintosh from RJ (which I think is actually made by Mackintosh) which is in a unique twill and is excellent. I concur with the above poster then... accessories good; quality either very good and overpriced or disappointing and overpriced, depending on the item. I still think RJ's a genius with color. That sadist hosting the comedy central show "Distraction" appears to have an all-RJ wardrobe. The clothes do make him look a bit slimmer... though I did cringe seeing him wear a shirt I own.