I've learned a lot here in the months since I've joined, and I thought I would apply some of that knowledge to an upcoming suit purchase. I will be traveling to Shanghai in May, so I plan to go to W.W. Chan and have them make a suit to my liking in the time that I'm there. What follows is a list of specifications along with pictures (you'll recognize many of them) to illustrate what I'm going for. As you can see, I'm kind of detail oriented and have a pretty good idea of what I'm looking for. I plan to bring all this information with me, and maybe even send some of it in advance if they tell me it would be helpful. Anything seem ridiculous? Any terms used incorrectly? Anything you would add? Take away? Change? You get the idea. I have a few remaining questions at the end that I'm hoping people can help me with. Thanks, and enjoy. (some of the pictures take a little time to load.) Lapels/Collar: - narrow notch lapel (Example 11)(Example 8) - 2 button - working hand-sewn lapel hole - very high gorge (Example 2)(Example 8)(Example 9) - medium-high button stance - 3-4" above belly button - edge picking - contrast color felt or grosgrain under collar band - gentle button roll (Example 9)(Example 10) Shoulders: (Example 12)(Example 13)(Example 14)(Example 5) - narrow, following natural shoulder line /width - slightly built (light padding) with concave slope - medium-heavy roping on sleeve head Arms: - tight arms - 1/2" shirt sleeve showing - small and high arm holes - slight taper to wrist (or should I go trumpet?) - 5 working hand-sewn button holes - overlapping buttons (Example 4) Fit: - very slim fit (Example 5)(Example 8) - close chest - medium waist suppression (Example 7)(Example 6) - close skirt, flared away front edges - regular length, bordering on the shorter side - double vent (Example 7) Pockets: - welt chest pocket, normal height with slight angle toward shoulder - 2 besom and flapped front pockets - right side ticket pocket, besom flapped (I go back and forth on this)(Example 6) - inside pen pocket, left - inside cell phone pocket, left - inside chest pocket (deep), bottoned, left - inside ticket pocket (deep), right - lower misc. pocket, right Lining: - colorful patterned silk (cheongsam/qipao printed silk) - hand-sewn monogram on left chest pocket in contrast color - no other labels Pants: - lower rise, about 1 1/4" below belly button - slim fit through thigh "stovepipe" (Example 5) - slight flare at leg opening - crease ending 6-8" below waistband - heel guard to assist drape - waist band 1 1/2" tall - pull tabs instead of belt loops (Example 1) - tab closure at waist with overlapping band (Example 3)(Example 1) - plain front - no cuff - button fly, 4 buttons, with extra internal tension buttons - off-seam side pockets (on seam?) - 1 besom back pocket, buttoned, right side - lined to knee (good idea, bad idea?) Fabric/materials: (need advice on all of this) - Super 120s-140s - 10-12 oz weight - charcoal, perhaps with pinstripes, self-pattern - dark horn buttons with subtle natural patterns For reference, I don't wear a suit to work, but enjoy any occasion to put one on, so I imagine this will mostly be worn in the evening. I'd also like to be able to wear it for as much of the year as I can, so suggestions on fabric weight would be appreciated. Durability should be somewhat of a factor as well, as this will be my primary suit. I'm also a younger guy, if that helps anything. As you can see, I have a few question marks above, and I'm also wondering 1.) should I specify vent height, as well as the space between the vents? And 2.) what should the measurement be from the sleeve button to the cuff? So there it is. Am I destined to be disappointed because I have such a clear picture in my mind of what I want, or have I covered all my bases? I've enjoyed putting this together and will certainly share the results when it's finished.
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3/20/05 at 6:32pm