The sport coat - Page 9

this is true there are alot of Matt's vintage tweed i like very much, but in this day and age we dont have those options anymore!

Trust me, I did not take offense at all.. I am not that insecure as to be upset when some random guy on the internet does not like my choice of navy trousers..

Or when they are being just plain sarcastic..

OMG It is confusing when Manton and FNB post in series

I thought of another reason dark colors have become so much more popular. Men are buying fancy clothes to wear out at night. My prejudice against navy trousers flares up when I see things like this. I live in ready-to-wear-ville. Would like tropical wool trousers to wear to work during the day during the summertime. Would like something lighter than my medium brown summer shoes. Two of the four choices are very dark. The only good reason I can think of, for the existence of navy tropical wool trousers, is evening wear. Maybe you need these for those late-night summer parties.

^^^ I agree with this, much more than I agree with this:


'Modern' and 'contemporary' are two different things, though they are often confused. As I understand it, the former has much more to do with ideology and motivation than actual appearance.

Now, I'm not sure to what degree a bespoke tweed odd jacket can generally be considered 'modern'--but if you think nothing better has come along, it's as modern a choice as possible.

Just become a Rubinacci client. From what I've heard from Matt about their cloth vault, there's plenty of interesting cloth to go around.


Yes to both points, but not many people mean big-M Modern when they say modern. It seems most people who use this term use it to vaguely refer to something that looks contemporaneous with popular fashion.

I think there's also too much hand-wringing over how far back in time a tweed-like cloth will set back a piece of clothing. The wearer and the design of the clothing will have far more effect than the cloth. Not much Thom Browne, for example, could be mistaken for anachronism.

--Andre

This thread has taken a really absurd tangent.

Would FNB be up in arms about tweed in town if not for me? I doubt it.

I find it hilarious that one of his biggest hobby-horses is to complain about the rule-bound (i.e., me) and how anachronistic and pedantic we are, and determined to dress as if it were forever 1936, and then he uncorks this totally asinine "rule" that in 2009 tweed cannot be worn in town. Sure, big guy. Only in your mind -- and not even there, I would bet. So do you only wear your 8-panel Frankencoat on your country estate? Wait -- no. You have already said that you wear it in the city. So it's only bad when I do it. Check. Like so many of your "rules."

The most anachronistic thing I wear is a DB vest, always solid colored. It is a little out of the ordinary, and it elicits the occasional comment about its unusualness. No one ever says anything about tweed in town -- except, sometimes, "Nice jacket."

I think this very much depends on the town, venue, the age of the wearer and the crowd you run with. For example here in England a young British man wearing a tweed jacket would not be viewed as stylish but would likely be sniggered at.

With regards to sports coats and navy pants, why would anyone complain of navy pants worn with a camel's hair sport coat? Other than dark brown pants, what would you wear?

Grey pants, of course. Grey + camel =

Among other things, modernity is about consumption, mass production, disposability, and at at least a partial nod to egalitarianism. These aesthetics are best captured by RTW designers who produce seasonal clothing and disposable "looks." In theory, one can have bespoke tailoring follow a similar path, as it did briefly during the London peacock revolution, or as it continues to be in the ever dwindling world of women's couture. As the tide ever recedes from bespoke production, however, and as its practioners diminish in numbers and increase in years, the art is essentially marooned on the island of classic style. We quibble constantly about what that is, but people who do not wear bespoke clothing are not at all confused by it.

Which bespoke tailor shall call modern? Any? Are we going to dust off poor old Ozwald Boateng again? I guess he was modern briefly...does anyone wear him anymore?

Frankly, the mere production time of a high end bespoke suit rivals the rise, life, and fall of a modern "look."


- B