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The sport coat - Page 9

post #121 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post
I'm pretty sure I've written a large body of short and biting quips regarding black suits. I'm the black suit Basho to FNB's Proust. Which is highly ironic considering that while I do wear a lot of black non-dressy clothes I only own one black suit and rarely wear it. If anyone is wondering what a modern look means and don't want to read all this thread just pickup a GQ and look at all the overstyled "in the klassy club having fun with the ladies" international playboy lifestyle ads. To me it's the epitome of not being modern but what do I know?
post #122 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
I think someone mentioned this above. They're nice, but perhaps a bit restrained compared to some of the vintage stuff (cf. some of Matt's Rubinaccis made from stuff pulled from the vaults). I was very surprised recently to see a Borrelli sportcoat book comprised entirely of 16 oz English cloths. Sadly, I think it's only for their own MTM program, but it's worth a look through just to see some of the really nice stuff in there.

--Andre

this is true there are alot of Matt's vintage tweed i like very much, but in this day and age we dont have those options anymore!
post #123 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dewey View Post
gnatty, sorry if you took offense at my "barking," as FNB so kindly characterizes it. all i can say is, you brought it up. no one walked up to you and rudely said your navy pants were so wrong.

in the future i will know better than to answer such questions. i did not realize it was a rhetorical question & just an opportunity to praise your attire in an elegant manner.

it can be hard to tell when posters are seriously curious, and when posters are fishing for compliments.



Trust me, I did not take offense at all.. I am not that insecure as to be upset when some random guy on the internet does not like my choice of navy trousers..
post #124 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dewey View Post
gnatty, sorry if you took offense at my "barking," as FNB so kindly characterizes it. all i can say is, you brought it up. no one walked up to you and rudely said your navy pants were so wrong.

in the future i will know better than to answer such questions. i did not realize it was a rhetorical question & just an opportunity to praise your attire in an elegant manner.

it can be hard to tell when posters are seriously curious, and when posters are fishing for compliments.


Or when they are being just plain sarcastic..
post #125 of 286
OMG It is confusing when Manton and FNB post in series
post #126 of 286
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post

post #127 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnatty8 View Post
Or when they are being just plain sarcastic..

post #128 of 286
I thought of another reason dark colors have become so much more popular. Men are buying fancy clothes to wear out at night. My prejudice against navy trousers flares up when I see things like this. I live in ready-to-wear-ville. Would like tropical wool trousers to wear to work during the day during the summertime. Would like something lighter than my medium brown summer shoes. Two of the four choices are very dark. The only good reason I can think of, for the existence of navy tropical wool trousers, is evening wear. Maybe you need these for those late-night summer parties.
post #129 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
I think there are as many definitions of modern as posters on this thread. By modern, what do we mean exactly? If I had to guess what OP wants, it sounds more like fashionable and contemporary than anything else.

^^^ I agree with this, much more than I agree with this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
If any of you think that you look "modern" in your bespoke tailored clothes, you're nuts, unless you are purposefully having your tailor imitate a RTW look or elements promoted or marketed by a current RTW mass market maker.

'Modern' and 'contemporary' are two different things, though they are often confused. As I understand it, the former has much more to do with ideology and motivation than actual appearance.

Now, I'm not sure to what degree a bespoke tweed odd jacket can generally be considered 'modern'--but if you think nothing better has come along, it's as modern a choice as possible.
post #130 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
this is true there are alot of Matt's vintage tweed i like very much, but in this day and age we dont have those options anymore!

Just become a Rubinacci client. From what I've heard from Matt about their cloth vault, there's plenty of interesting cloth to go around.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
'Modern' and 'contemporary' are two different things, though they are often confused. As I understand it, the former has much more to do with ideology and motivation than actual appearance.

Yes to both points, but not many people mean big-M Modern when they say modern. It seems most people who use this term use it to vaguely refer to something that looks contemporaneous with popular fashion.

I think there's also too much hand-wringing over how far back in time a tweed-like cloth will set back a piece of clothing. The wearer and the design of the clothing will have far more effect than the cloth. Not much Thom Browne, for example, could be mistaken for anachronism.

--Andre
post #131 of 286
This thread has taken a really absurd tangent.

Would FNB be up in arms about tweed in town if not for me? I doubt it.

I find it hilarious that one of his biggest hobby-horses is to complain about the rule-bound (i.e., me) and how anachronistic and pedantic we are, and determined to dress as if it were forever 1936, and then he uncorks this totally asinine "rule" that in 2009 tweed cannot be worn in town. Sure, big guy. Only in your mind -- and not even there, I would bet. So do you only wear your 8-panel Frankencoat on your country estate? Wait -- no. You have already said that you wear it in the city. So it's only bad when I do it. Check. Like so many of your "rules."

The most anachronistic thing I wear is a DB vest, always solid colored. It is a little out of the ordinary, and it elicits the occasional comment about its unusualness. No one ever says anything about tweed in town -- except, sometimes, "Nice jacket."
post #132 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
'...No one ever says anything about tweed in town -- except, sometimes, "Nice jacket."...'

I think this very much depends on the town, venue, the age of the wearer and the crowd you run with. For example here in England a young British man wearing a tweed jacket would not be viewed as stylish but would likely be sniggered at.
post #133 of 286
With regards to sports coats and navy pants, why would anyone complain of navy pants worn with a camel's hair sport coat? Other than dark brown pants, what would you wear?
post #134 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by norton View Post
With regards to sports coats and navy pants, why would anyone complain of navy pants worn with a camel's hair sport coat? Other than dark brown pants, what would you wear?

Grey pants, of course. Grey + camel =
post #135 of 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
'Modern' and 'contemporary' are two different things, though they are often confused. As I understand it, the former has much more to do with ideology and motivation than actual appearance.

Now, I'm not sure to what degree a bespoke tweed odd jacket can generally be considered 'modern'--but if you think nothing better has come along, it's as modern a choice as possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
Yes to both points, but not many people mean big-M Modern when they say modern. It seems most people who use this term use it to vaguely refer to something that looks contemporaneous with popular fashion.

Among other things, modernity is about consumption, mass production, disposability, and at at least a partial nod to egalitarianism. These aesthetics are best captured by RTW designers who produce seasonal clothing and disposable "looks." In theory, one can have bespoke tailoring follow a similar path, as it did briefly during the London peacock revolution, or as it continues to be in the ever dwindling world of women's couture. As the tide ever recedes from bespoke production, however, and as its practioners diminish in numbers and increase in years, the art is essentially marooned on the island of classic style. We quibble constantly about what that is, but people who do not wear bespoke clothing are not at all confused by it.

Which bespoke tailor shall call modern? Any? Are we going to dust off poor old Ozwald Boateng again? I guess he was modern briefly...does anyone wear him anymore?

Frankly, the mere production time of a high end bespoke suit rivals the rise, life, and fall of a modern "look."


- B
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