Not to hijack my own thread, but i've actually wondered - a) how are Borrelli's suits and what would be the "peer group" and b) who makes Isaia's shirts and ties? Â The stitching of their shirts seems remarkably similar to Borrelli shirts.
I don't like comparing suits based purely on price, since I think the styles are really what puts suits in a category. I'd put the Neapolitan manufacturers in a category, which would be Kiton, Attolini, Borrelli, and Isaia (I'm sure I'm missing some). Kiton and Attolini represent the best of RTW tailoring, and should sit a notch above Borrelli and Isaia. Owning several Borrelli suits and odd jackets, I can say that they are as well constructed as Kiton, but are behind in the degree of handwork (though if Kiton indexes at 100 on handwork, I'd put Borrelli at 95) as well as the luxuriousness of the fabrics (again, if Kiton indexes at 100, I'd put Borrelli at 90). I haven't had the opportunity to study Attolini pieces, so I only know what I've read. I'll let someone else who's more knowledgeable chime in on Attolini. Isaia I find just a step below Borrelli in terms of handwork. (If Borrelli is 95 to Kiton's 100, I'd put Isaia at 85-90). I would say that I have been impressed by Isaia's fabrics, however, and would put them on par or maybe even slightly better than Borrelli. I'd say that Isaia isn't as well constructed as Borrelli, but this is only a hunch based on the feel, not any specific knowledge. The real "value" I see in Borrelli, is that the styling is terrific (Neapolitan natural shoulder, with some waist suppression) and the construction is A+. And Borrelli is generally 60% the retail price of Kiton, while I don't believe it's 60% the garment. To me, a Kiton jacket and a Borrelli jacket feel very similar in terms of their comfort, etc. Of course, if I had $5,000 to spend on a RTW suit, I don't suspect I'd care too much about construction, etc. since I wouldn't be terribly concerned with such worldly matters. It's funny, but though I like the Neapolitan style better aesthetically, I probably look better with a more structured Brioni-type jacket.