Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide - Page 5

ohhh i read that as you have never heard of caruso...

I guess I should clarify, by RLBL I meant black label not blue lable... the beginning of this thread states that black label suits are made by Caruso, the SA said Corneliani... I am not sure if there is a huge difference in quality but he was pretty adamant the black label suits were Corneliani..

I knew what you meant. I would say that an SA who hasn't heard of Caruso is probably not the most reliable source of information.

bump this is still a helpful guide, don't want it to get lost!

Although this thread addresses matters of quality and manufacture, it seems to ignore fit, which is at least as important for a lot of readers. I have relied on BABuckeye's post here: http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...9&postcount=15
for lots of valuable fit info. I've pasted the info below:

Polo I - single vent, 2 button (full, traditional cut)
Polo II - double vent, 3 button (traditional cut, but 3 button and side vents can make it look slimmer than Polo I)
Polo III - double vent, 2 button, ticket pocket
Polo IV - double vent, 3 button, ticket pocket (slightly higher arm holes, so feels trimmer about the chest)
Polo I-IV suits generally have pleated pants (traditional Dalton model)
Hacking (jacket) - side vents, 3 button, like Polo II, but with angled pockets and ticket pocket. Some would call it a [horse] riding jacket.
Princeton (jacket) - single vent, 3 button, somewhat boxy, usually with patch pockets
Purple Label - may be 2 or 3 button model, whichever, it is slightly trimmer than Blue Label (Polo I-IV), and suit pants slimmer fitting.
Black Label - trimmest fitting, usually smaller slimmer lapel too, low rise and very slim fitting pants.
Bleeker - usually 3 button, single vent; slimmer fitting (in both chest and arms), shorter in length for similar sized coats; suits with flat front pants, slim fitting and tapered.
Congressman - similar to bleeker, though not sure whether pants are as slim fitting; seems to be sold at dept stores (like Macy's suit dept) rather than Polo stores.

All the above items retail for over $1000. If something retailed for $595 or $695, it was generally sold at a dept store. These jackets usually unlined, and sometimes sized with S,M,L,XL.

Polo pants:
Regent - flat front, traditional fit through hips, thighs, legs, 18 inch leg opening.
Dalton - pleated front (Forward pleats, I think), full through thighs and legs.
Madison - flat front pants, (from purple label line, I think), about 2 inches slimmer through legs, sits slightly lower on hips, 16 inch leg opening. (if you run, bike, or for any other reason have muscular calf, these pants will hug tightly and look as bad as a tight shirt wrapped around a not so tight belly, with the button on the verge of popping.

Where would I find BL pants in 29 or 30 waist (not on website)? I am also looking for 14.5" collar shirt(s) and a 36S blazer (both Black Label).

Is RLBL still made by Caruso? I picked up a suit from King of Prussia a couple months ago and it said made in italy. cantarelli perhaps?

On Bleeker, the button stance is higher than normal. Black Label button stance is low. Purple Label button stance is the middle ground.

There are different models of Purple Label suits too. Madison, Savile Row and Drake AFAIK. Madison is cut slightly fuller and Drake is cut slimmer.

I missed out on a double breasted suit a while back, its was a blue label "polo, ralph lauren" similar to the cornelliani one's but was made in the U.S.A.? anyone have a clue who would have made it? Im really pissed because i barely ever find blue label in my size 36R and it only went for $199.99 new with tags (I think the reatail was around $1,400). I hesitated because it had double pleats.

Correct me if I wrong, but I thought Polo IV cut implies double breasted.

A made in USA Polo would have been made by Ralph Lauren in the their own factory sometime between the late 70s and the mid 90s. Before that they were made by Hilton. All of these I have seen are full canvas including the overcoat I have.

The double breasted suits are usually the 'Polo DB' model which has a ticket pocket, side vents, and a very soft shoulder.