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Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide - Page 36

post #526 of 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post
 

Thanks but the RLPL doesn't have the tell-tale manufacturer's label. It has a purple tag saying it was made for RL. See the pic on the link I posted. I have other St. Andrew's and Caruso garments with their factory labels inside and know what they look like.

 

I have a Burberry London made in Italy that also has a Burberry label inside and no manufacturer's tag either.

 

It's made by Caruso. Caruso made RLPL does not have the caruso tag inside, whereas St. Andrews and Cantarelli included their tags. 

 

As for Burberry, some have been made by Belvest. But again, the only one's I've seen have had the make tag.  

post #527 of 665

Many thanks. I figured it was Caruso as I'd read St. Andrews stopped making RLPL a long time ago. 

post #528 of 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspace View Post

It's made by Caruso. Caruso made RLPL does not have the caruso tag inside, whereas St. Andrews and Cantarelli included their tags. 

As for Burberry, some have been made by Belvest. But again, the only one's I've seen have had the make tag.  

Recent Burberry suits I saw have the Lardini tag.
post #529 of 665

The Burberry London suit I have is labelled with the Burberrry internal tag only. Made in Italy but I'm not sure by whom.

post #530 of 665
Already tried posting this elsewhere with no success but this would seem to be the right place.
Recent e-thrift




From the first page of this thread I would guess C&J but someone opined maybe AS.
Thanks for any help and approximate year would be great as well if known. I plan to keep these but still learning the makers.
post #531 of 665
Trying to figure out the maker on these thrifted shoes. Hand writing inside, and brass nails in the heel.


post #532 of 665

There's so much on this forum about "who" makes what, but not so much about "how" its made. The "how" is just as important as the "who."

 

This blog shows the unique machine stitching in Purple Label that looks like hand-stitching: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2012/02/ralph-lauren-purple-label.html

 

So most of the Italian RL is *not* hand-finished.

 

I, personally, have never visited a Corneliani factory. I imagine it would look something like this video: https://instagram.com/p/8zyFRdD6WX/?taken-by=kitondonna

 

That is a Kiton factory, workers finishing the jackets by hand. Kiton is priced astronomically. More hand work, no machines: https://instagram.com/p/4Rk0BYD6Vp/?taken-by=kitondonna

 

But it is apparent (as you can see from my picture of the silk Polo sport coat from 2013) that the old "made in Italy" Corneliani coats were much more expensive than the coats of today. My previous post stated that they simply moved the factory out of Italy for Polo.

 

Is labor in Italy 30% higher? Is the quality lesser even though its still Corneliani? How are the coats made for RL vs. how Kiton or Luciano Barbera, etc, are making them?

 

 

 

 


Edited by Chewco - 10/29/15 at 5:16pm
post #533 of 665
Corneliani is mostly machine made, the new polo is cheaper and worse than old polo, in either case both are half canvassed.

The how would always be difficult, Caruso makes stuff from <1k to 5k stuff. Maybe some of the handwork can be identified though most of us are not Jeff...
post #534 of 665

@clee1982,

 

Thanks for that detail and your comment. I appreciate that its hard to know how they are made, especially without deconstructing the jacket completely. I have come across some forums here with some brave souls willing to rip apart some really nice jackets. That post about the RLPL jacket that had the machine-stitching really made me scratch my head. Why pad the lapel and stitch the canvas by hand, and also do the button-holes completely by hand, but then finish the rest with a machine? Mystery.

 

Virtually all the jackets I have are half-canvased. The quality is still good, from my amateur eyes. I see a few "old polo" jackets that I got from RL ("made in Italy" label clear - and Corneliani manufacture tag hidden in the pocket). And some newer ones (e.g. Polo I model) labelled "made in USA." Very interesting.

 

One question remains: is there a noticeable difference in quality in the out-sourced product vs. the actual product. E.g. Comparing Sant'Andrea jackets vs. RLPL (made by Sant'Andrea). Going direct, you certainly see a higher price-point than out-sourced.

 

I can speak for shoes: the "made in England" RLPL shoes (Edward Green) are comparable to the "made in England" Brooks Brothers shoes (Edward Green) which are comparable also to the ordinary Edward Green "made in England" shoes. All astronomically priced. But the quality/construction I've seen is consistent in all 3 examples. The hope (the reason for this forum, I see) is that the same can be said about the clothing. That is, same quality (as Corneliani) but at a steep discount if you buy through RL. But you, clee1982, I can see are already doubting that. I'm just curious as to people's opinions/expectations so I can form my own.

post #535 of 665
Corneliani mainline is full canvassed, Polo is not (new or old), Corneliani Trend (or whatever it is called) is half canvassed. As said before Caruso made different quality for different customer (depends on target Px range, for example just looking at Ralph Lauren Black Label vs. Ralph Lauren Purple Label), but I haven't seen a "bad" garment out of Caruso, even the ones for Ralph Lauren Rugby (when it was still around).

I personally don't really care for handwork when it is not needed..., to me it make things cost more for no obvious benefit (some people do care a lot, so I understand it is personal opinion), I mean if machine does amazing button hole then that's what I would be happy with.

I think people do realize that same manufacture does not equal to same quality, and sometimes given the Px point quite obviously so. No one is getting mainline Corneliani at a discount through Polo.
post #536 of 665

Sounds like the quality for RL may go down in general once Ralph steps down. Any idea on if the aesthetic and fit of Black Label will survive but under the Purple Label? And how about price points? I heard Black Label will be the same design but at a higher price point simply because its under Purple Label (This scares me to purchase as much BL as possible) . Any ideas?

post #537 of 665
I don't find black or purple label quality going down, Polo might be more mixed bag (though they actually lower the Px with lower quality).

Not sure how black label aesthetic will survive under purple label though... And px...
post #538 of 665
Black label will merge into PL but remain at its entry level luxury price. Some BL styles will actually be sent to polo, much of the dark herringbone sport coats this season from polo are more of a BL cut. The Anthony and those suits will be the new entry level suits to PL. The goal is to create an easier line-up for customers, PL is the luxury Line vs Polo the main line. BL in the last few years was more or less lost in the shuffle so it will help consolidate them.
post #539 of 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuitedDx View Post

Unlined suede chukkas with a crepe sole:

Untitled

I'm guessing C&J. Did RL procure other shoemakers (besides EG and G&G as these are obviously not theirs)?

Untitled

Did you ever find out who made these? Where did you get them if you don't mind me asking?
post #540 of 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoit1981 View Post

Did you ever find out who made these? Where did you get them if you don't mind me asking?
They are made by Alfred Sargent
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