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Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide - Page 34

post #496 of 498
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I don't see how the quality of blue label has declined. Are the fabrics really that bad?

The Corneliani blue label items aren't made in Italy anymore, but they're still half canvassed.

The fabrics are not really "that bad". They are still Super 110s fabric to start. Imo it still is a step up from J.Crew, with all due respect to J.Crew and suits of a comparable price point. (J.Crew sometimes uses Wool Blends on its patterned fabrics).


Depending on fit preference, which is also critical, the slimmer fit may be better for someone or not.


The new Blue Label suits are a fair OTR value proposition, especially when they are on sale as they are indeed half canvassed and use Italian S110 fabrics. It's also still a Corneliani constructed product (albeit not made in Italy).


However, for those who are used to Blue Label of past the price difference of several hundred dollars includes missing details; really depends on how important these details are to you.

>new blue label suits have partially lined pants as opposed to being fully lined to the knee (old blue label, BL, PL)

>half canvassed but the quality of canvas itself is not the same as before


in sum, usually the internal components and construction that differentiates suit tiers; especially in a time where even sub $1K suits can now offer great external features such as decent fabrics, (largely) cosmetic sartorial details, horn buttons and Bemberg linings.

post #497 of 498
Originally Posted by admiral View Post

Do their shoes fall in the same categories as well? And are these a good deal for $212?


I'd say go for a pair of Loakes if you're looking for something at a fair price point.
post #498 of 498
Originally Posted by To the Nines View Post

The current made in england RL PL shoes are priced a tad higher than their made in Italy styles by a few hundred dollars. agreed that quality is dependent on who makes the shoes for which RL uses a variety of manufacturers. EG certainly the best overall within the world of RL but I would not dismiss their Crockett & Jones offerings (their cordovan footwear) and their Silvano Sassetti offerings in RL PL (the latter of which imo is preferable to the stand alone Silvano Sassetti found elsewhere)

I digress but I think if one were able to afford (or access) RL PL that speaks unto itself as it lends to a whole different level of footwear appreciation where manufacturers such as Alden, Trickers, Berluti, Carmina, produce wonderful shoes as well. Different levels of craftsmanship but still great shoes for their respective price points. From a business standpoint, its great to be able to offer craftsmanship with a significant enough sales volume to keep the manufacturing going. I have an preference for the craftsmanship of American and English made footwear but I have to hand it to the Italian made footwear businesses. The latter have competitive boutique and department store presences (Tod's, Salvatore Ferragamo) whose respective sales volumes allow for that. 

The C&J are nice, though they are a bit too thick and clunky for my taste (though I realize they are a somewhat more casual shoe). That doesn't diminish their quality in the least, though. Interestingly enough, the English RL shoes don't seem to sell for much, if any, more than the manufacturer's own brand shoes. The other stuff seems to sell for a larger markup due to the RL branding.

Not sure which Italian shoes are the Sassetti ones, but I do have a pair of RLPL Italian shoes I really like. However I got them on sale for about $300 and they just aren't in the same league as the pair of EG RL shoes I have.
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