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Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide - Page 16

post #226 of 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by BABuckeye View Post
My SA just told me that the RL "made in USA" longwings and chukkas are made by Allen Edmonds. I asked whether he meant Alden, and he said he was sure it was AE.

I've owed AE years ago. They are fine, but I would rank them below the other manufacturers that RL has used in recent years, like Crockett and Jones. Too bad.
[...]

yes, but was does that mean?

A shoe is a shoe is the shoe. Almost all goodyear-welted shoes are basically the same in construction, especially now that AE uses a shank/270 deg welting.
I'd guess that all manufacturers use the same machinery, and let's assume similarly-qualified workers.
So why are there shoe makers of different quality?
Because they target a different market segment.
After construction (basically the same), the other ways of differentiating yourself are

* last
* pattern/design
* quality of materials (leather)
* quality of workmanship

A last is such a subjective thing it's hard to assess its quality. Besides, the designer can technically license any last. Pattern/design is usually done by the designer or in collaboration.
Quality of materials/workmanship would usually be specified by the designer as well.
Leather quality is obvious. Assuming workers have the same qualifications, quality of workmanship is basically a function of how much time workers are allowed to spend on a shoe (which is a function of target cost), so quite variable.

So the only unknown here is the quality of staff. I've read several times that workers in Northampton switch from low- to high-tier maker and vice versa. This should support the assumption that they are fairly comparable in skill. I'm open to contradictory evidence if anybody can find some.

So, what I'm trying to say in a very long-winded way is, RL basically chooses the quality of shoe they want to sell. And then they choose the manufacturer that can provide this quality, presumably at the lowest cost.

So when you buy a RL made by AE, it's not an AE, nor is a BB Peal made by C&J a C&J.
While there may be some correlation between maker and quality, I'm not sure how strong it is.
Pick up the shoe, look at it in detail, feel the leather, walk around in it, this will give you a better indication of quality than who made it.
post #227 of 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoood View Post
While there may be some correlation between maker and quality, I'm not sure how strong it is.

For higher end shoemakers like Edward Green, the correlation is quite strong. But for lower end ones, they make pretty much anything (think Cheaney).
post #228 of 423
Does anyone know if RL uses Silvano Sassetti also for their Italian made women shoes? (Wanting to get something for the missus.)
post #229 of 423
Does RLPL Suit by Caruso have lower quality than by St. Andrews?
It seems like one by Caruso is much expensive than St. Andrews in retail price. Anyone?
post #230 of 423
Where does the "Rugby" line fall on the list?
post #231 of 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensington View Post
Where does the "Rugby" line fall on the list?

See the first post!
post #232 of 423
First time poster; be kind. I've always been a fan of Ralph and it's been interesting watching the line(s) grow since I was in school. We pretty much just had Polo and that was that. It just seems like the newer lines have grown and succeeded at the expense of the Polo line. Purple Label, Black Label, and Rugby all have very defined aesthetics and levels of quality. Their target demographics are very clearly defined: Purple Label for pure luxury, Black Label for modern elegance, Rugby for preppy young (16 to 25) adults. It seems Polo has become such a muddled line. It's still decidedly preppy, but certainly more of a modern take on the preppy idea. Price points are certainly odd. Does it make since for a line with italian-made suits that open at $1400 to sell poorly made $85 dress shirts? I'd like to see Polo compete on quality and price more with Paul Stuart and less with JCrew and Banana Republic. The tailored side of Polo is fine, but better quality (and obviously higher prices) in staple items like chinos, dress shirts, sweaters, and sport shirts would help elevate the brand to what it once was. Just my two cents.
post #233 of 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by nolan50410 View Post
First time poster; be kind.

I've always been a fan of Ralph and it's been interesting watching the line(s) grow since I was in school. We pretty much just had Polo and that was that. It just seems like the newer lines have grown and succeeded at the expense of the Polo line.

Purple Label, Black Label, and Rugby all have very defined aesthetics and levels of quality. Their target demographics are very clearly defined: Purple Label for pure luxury, Black Label for modern elegance, Rugby for preppy young (16 to 25) adults.

It seems Polo has become such a muddled line. It's still decidedly preppy, but certainly more of a modern take on the preppy idea. Price points are certainly odd. Does it make since for a line with italian-made suits that open at $1400 to sell poorly made $85 dress shirts?

I'd like to see Polo compete on quality and price more with Paul Stuart and less with JCrew and Banana Republic. The tailored side of Polo is fine, but better quality (and obviously higher prices) in staple items like chinos, dress shirts, sweaters, and sport shirts would help elevate the brand to what it once was.

Just my two cents.

As for shirts, polo has two lines...the $85ish retail ones, and ones that retail from $125-185, which certainly compete with something like PS with much finer fabrics, shell buttons, etc. Same thing goes for pants- there are chinos that retail at J. Crew prices, and then ones that are made by Corneliani and are $295+. Sweaters, same sort of deal; the cashmere knits that retail for $400 are pretty nice, and there are some other higher quality knits; there are also the ones that end up in Marshalls.

Generally, you'll find the nicer items in an RL store vs. at a department store, unless it's Saks or some Bloomingdales.
post #234 of 423
Isn't there a decent compromise somewhere between $75 and $295 chinos? This is part of my beef with Polo. It's either too JCrewish or too Purple Labelish. It seems there is a sweet spot they are missing.
post #235 of 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by nolan50410 View Post
Isn't there a decent compromise somewhere between $75 and $295 chinos? This is part of my beef with Polo. It's either too JCrewish or too Purple Labelish. It seems there is a sweet spot they are missing.
I can't think of a decent pant that retails for less than $295, online vendors like HY/panta excluded. If I'm getting J. Crew quality pants for 30 bucks, that's one thing, but for non-beater purposes, I'd much rather have Corneliani made $295+ pants that I can snag in an outlet/through online channels in a range from ridiculously deeply to fairly discounted prices. A $150 retail pant in my mind is no better than a $75 pant, and I wouldn't pay more for it. Purple label pants these days can reach $600-700 easily.
post #236 of 423
Does anybody know what Polo SPW is? Is that sports wear maybe? Looking at this jacket but not sure what the cut is like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_3315wt_1141
post #237 of 423
From time to time, I come across PRL label RL Naval Club (or variation of it). Does anyone have any back story about this (discointinued?) line?

Thank you.
post #238 of 423
green label FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
post #239 of 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by bellyhungry View Post
From time to time, I come across PRL label RL Naval Club (or variation of it). Does anyone have any back story about this (discointinued?) line?

Thank you.

Just one of hundreds of PRL's "sublines". Everything is equal to the regular PRL, the only difference is the theme (naval in this case) and fit (I can't comment). To put things in perspectives, other very popular "sublines" of PRL is the "custom fit" (fit), the "big pony" (theme), etc. Popular sublines stay, less popular will die off. I can't find the Naval Club on their website anymore, but I've seen some of them in RL Chicago earlier this year, so they should be recent.
post #240 of 423
anything with names like "Naval Club" or "Montauk" etc are names of seasonal deliveries not sublines. Naval Club was the last delivery of summer and should be either on clearance or not even on the floor at this point
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