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Bespoke VS. Brioni - Page 2

post #16 of 28
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Just curious, as this is NOT an issue I am facing but: If you could chose going bespoke at a top NYC custom shop VS Brioni at ~$4,000 a pop... why go Brioni?  Sure they are beautiful, but at that price point, isn't bespoke ideal?   I note Bergdorff's pushes their Brioni line (suits, shirts & ties) but makes no mention of their bespoke services in their catalouge.   Is Brioni an "investment banker" thing?  I know Jim Cramer sports the Brioni off the rack (he made mention of it recently).  
I believe if you want a bespoke suit from a tailor who has skill to make Brioni quality suit, I think such bespoke suit will cost more than Brioni RTW or MTM. I have visited many custom tailoring shops recently, and I was not happy with their detailing works such as stitchings, pocket placement and styling, lining work, and etc. Also, the canvas, which dictates the 'feel' of a suit, may lack in quality in a bespoke suit compare to Brioni's. The canvas that goes in Brioni suit is probably only made for Brioni and your custom tailor do not have access to them. Everytime I try on Bironi suit jackets at Brioni shop, I cannot help but saying "ahhhhhh ...". I do not even get that feeling from Kiton to tell you the truth. I say, if you want look and feel of Brioni, then go with Brioni. If you want your own look and design then go with Bespoke.
post #17 of 28
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Mr. Everyman has a net worth of around $100 mil. Grayson
Don't get me wrong - that's why I put it in inverted commas.
post #18 of 28
he may be worth 100mill but he still dresses like a bum. im sure there are people out there who are worth well in excess of 100million and dress alot worse then cramer.
post #19 of 28
as a huge fan of Brioni, thought i'd chime in..... I've found that it's impossible to find the quality, shape, fit, and tailoring found in RTW Brioni items in bespoke clothing, unless I am willing to spend at least $3000. As I get all of my new Brioni clothing at a drastically reduced price from the retail cost, there's little chance I will have an opportunity to experience anything bespoke (except maybe shirts....oneday.) Besides, Brioni goes great with RTW John Lobb shoes (just got another pair, and at a really great price/ discount..)
post #20 of 28
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(The Foxx) there's little chance I will have an opportunity to experience anything bespoke (except maybe shirts....oneday.)
I like this man's attitude.
post #21 of 28
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as a huge fan of Brioni, thought i'd chime in..... I've found that it's impossible to find the quality, shape, fit, and tailoring found in RTW Brioni items in bespoke clothing, unless I am willing to spend at least $3000.  As I get all of my new Brioni clothing at a drastically reduced price from the retail cost, there's little chance I will have an opportunity to experience anything bespoke (except maybe shirts....oneday.) Besides, Brioni goes great with RTW John Lobb shoes (just got another pair, and at a really great price/ discount..)
My respect for the Foxx has disappeared Foxx, how can you claim this if you've never had a bespoke suit.? For what it's worth, I agree with Foxx that Brioni's tailors are absolutely superb (despite the fact that I'm not a huge fan of Brioni style). My tailor, when I asked whether he thinks Brioni or Kiton makes the better product, said Brioni. Overall, you'd be hard pressed to find a tailor who could make a Brioni quality suit, and even far fewer who could make a Brioni quality suit that is a carbon copy of Brioni styling. The catch is that you may find that a good bespoke tailor can make certain stylistic decisions that are actually an improvement on Brioni for your particular body. The biggest draw for bespoke though is that you get total control over the process (or, almost total control). That is part of the benefit and also part of the pleasure. As one who has mulled over the decision of whether to try a bespoke suit or be able to get two super high quality (i.e. Oxxford, Isaia) suits at discount for the same price, I can tell you that the only reason I'm going with the former is because I know that the experience of working with the tailor will be worth a few hundred dollars itself to me. I like the craft.
post #22 of 28
johnnynorman, if you, like me, enjoy watching the art and craft of custom tailoring, make sure the tailor you select actually creates the clothes in his shop and does not outsource the garment to a factory, which would negate the whole experience. Grayson
post #23 of 28
My tailor does everything in house -- he even refuses to shirts for the sole reason that he would have to outsource. I've personally seen him stitching buttonholes and doing the canvas on suits before.
post #24 of 28
Excellent. Sounds like he's "tailor made" for you. Such old-school tailors are a fast-declining breed. Grayson
post #25 of 28
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(RJMan @ Mar. 18 2005,10:31) Shark-fin collar, maybe?
Are the front edges curved?  That's a shark-fin collar.  I don't like those, either.
What on earth is a shark-fin collar??? Could someone provide a picture. Great topic btw.
post #26 of 28
I have asked this too, but sort of posed the question differently. Assuming you can get top RTW - Kiton, Brioni, Zegna Couture - for around $1500 on sale or online, is it preferable to purchase those or some cheaper MTM (Hickey, Polo) or Asian bespoke. The question, ultimately, turns on the question of what is more important - fit or quality of construction. My conclusion, and the conclusion of many others, is that fit is far more important than how much handwork went into the garment. Having the best of both worlds - perfect fit and impeccable construction - is obviously the supreme yet elusive ideal. But if you have to compromise, I say always choose bespoke or MTM over expensive RTW. You simply look better and feel better.
post #27 of 28
As I might have mentioned this before, I think buying RTW and bespoke are two different stages in a gentleman's sartorial conquest.  One cannot start off his life on Savile Row without knowing what he wants.  At this stage, he will rely on the Brionis and Kitons of the market, as I once did.  The merits of having been 'educated' by these RTW is invaluable, as they will teach you how to identity the basics of good tailoring --- buttonholes, pick-stitching, horse hair canvass, shoulder pads, etc., just to name a few points.  Ultimately, if he is determined to improve his wardrobe, he will begin to notice the inadequacies of RTW.  He will then seek out his other option --- bespoke tailoring.  Armed with the basic knowledge of the tailoring art, he will now be able to communicate with this tailor on matters of styling, personalization, craftsmanship and other minor details.  This will, no doubt, be another long journey, but it is one journey that he will enjoy for the rest of his life.   To decide whether to purchase Brioni or have a suit bespoken for you, you need to know where you are on the sartorial conquest.  If you are a newbie, chances are, even at the hands of Mr. Hitchcock or Mr. Beaman (or for that matter, Mr. Kabbaz), you will have completely no idea what they've just made for you --- and to the dismay of the craftsman, you are not yet equipped to enjoy their creation, not to mention your possible dissatisfaction of the final product, as it may not be what you are aiming for.  On the other hand, if you have had quite a handful of Brionis and Kitons already sitting in your wardrobe, my humble advise is, move on to bespoke tailoring, even if it is just a local artisan.  The first one or two suits may not be entirely satisfactory, but thereafter, oh what more can I say: the endless selection of cloths, the communication with the artist/craftsman, the inexhaustible imagination, and the final work of art --- note: art is not represented by its monetary value, whether it costs $10,000 or a mere $1000, if the suit fits perfectly and the craftmanship superb, it is a work of art.  A bespoke suit is made for and belongs to you.  An off-the-rack suit belongs to the rack. JMHO.
post #28 of 28
johnnynorman-- huh? i thought I lost your respect a long time ago, when you learned I like to wear one jacket sleeve button undone..
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