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The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit - Page 5

post #61 of 104
it looks like the famous pocket circle.
post #62 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by vitaminc View Post
Sadly that is very true despite his suit doesn't fit as well as those bespoke spenders on the forum.

p.s., anyone know how he folds his pocket square? Oragami!!!


Seems to be a simple reversed puff and just nicely arranged in the pocket.
post #63 of 104
I can't tell much about the fit because of how he is standing, but I like the combo (minus the pocket square.) Looks very much like RL to me too.
post #64 of 104
Silly complaints and irrelevant remarks over brand perceptions. The suit looks great on him and he has the body to wear a "tight" suit. I could do without the pocket square though but in all 99%
post #65 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post
Silly complaints and irrelevant remarks over brand perceptions. The suit looks great on him and he has the body to wear a "tight" suit. I could do without the pocket square though but in all 99%

I agree 99% with your 99%. I'd probably prefer a shirt color other than white but I'm not complainng.
post #66 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post
Silly complaints and irrelevant remarks over brand perceptions. The suit looks great on him and he has the body to wear a "tight" suit. I could do without the pocket square though but in all 99%

I don't care about the brand, but the fit is touted as ideal. That's a pretty high bar and the shoulder and sleeve fit are off. No matter what your body is like, your arms shouldn't pop out of the side of your sleeves. Moreover, the sleeves are cut too tight to allow them to drape smoothly even when his arm is just dangling there.

Tightness and a nice physique don't suffice to make an ideal fitting suit in my book.
post #67 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I don't care about the brand, but the fit is touted as ideal. That's a pretty high bar and the shoulder and sleeve fit are off. No matter what your body is like, your arms shouldn't pop out of the side of your sleeves. Moreover, the sleeves are cut too tight to allow them to drape smoothly even when his arm is just dangling there.

Tightness and a nice physique don't suffice to make an ideal fitting suit in my book.

Didn't you say that the best fit is the one that uses the least cloth? I had you set up for a spandex catsuit.
post #68 of 104
I think the fit is pretty good compared to what you generally see on the street, and I think he wears it well. My major complaint is that too many of the details are calling attention to themselves. The cut, fabric, and lapels are busy enough, but the ticket pocket and two-button cuff really put it over the top. Too many melodies; not enough harmony.
post #69 of 104
I wonder if that blog owner will accept the negative critique???

If you read the comments all of them give glowing praises to Mory.
post #70 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I don't care about the brand, but the fit is touted as ideal. That's a pretty high bar and the shoulder and sleeve fit are off. No matter what your body is like, your arms shouldn't pop out of the side of your sleeves. Moreover, the sleeves are cut too tight to allow them to drape smoothly even when his arm is just dangling there.

Tightness and a nice physique don't suffice to make an ideal fitting suit in my book.

But there cannot truly be a true "ideal" right? As ideal is defined by the beholder.

I try not to speak in absolutes so I guess I'd rather answer "does the fit look good on him", which of course is wholly subjective.
post #71 of 104
question: It doesn't look that way in this picture, but what if one's shoulders are actually that wide? How is the suit kept from looking like it's too big?
post #72 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Didn't you say that the best fit is the one that uses the least cloth? I had you set up for a spandex catsuit.

/me runs to get the camera
post #73 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Grant View Post
But there cannot truly be a true "ideal" right? As ideal is defined by the beholder.

I try not to speak in absolutes so I guess I'd rather answer "does the fit look good on him", which of course is wholly subjective.

But, don't you think it would look better if his arms weren't bulging out of his sleeves?
post #74 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Didn't you say that the best fit is the one that uses the least cloth? I had you set up for a spandex catsuit.

I didn't leave it at that. I proposed a ratio of conformity over a reasonable range of movment to the amount of material used. This suit would have a low first number because it doesn't fit his arms even when he's standing still.

And yes, a cat suit fits very well by this measure. But I never said fit was everything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by migo View Post
question: It doesn't look that way in this picture, but what if one's shoulders are actually that wide? How is the suit kept from looking like it's too big?

What do you mean? You'd cut the shoulders wider and leave the rest narrower.
post #75 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
But, don't you think it would look better if his arms weren't bulging out of his sleeves?

In this case, M- not really- only because I think it all hold together "confidently". Perhaps removing the roped shoulders might matter- I tend to see most roped shoulders seemingly all exaggerating the look you are complaining about. Perhaps that's why, with DB's, I prefer a more padded shoulder.
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