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The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit - Page 2

post #16 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
What are dimplets, baby dumplings?

They are Tom Ford's speciality. Essential to the Look.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesAlexander View Post
The peak lapels are little exaggerated for my taste, and I would have preferred a darker tie and better knot. The buttons also look a little weird.

What do you consider a 'better' knot and what's wrong with the buttons?
post #17 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
This is an Eredi Pisano suit? Makes sense. There's something very obnoxious about it.

Mafoo, I actually think you would look really good in this suit.
post #18 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesAlexander View Post
The suit's fit is fantastic and I love the fabric. The peak lapels are little exaggerated for my taste, and I would have preferred a darker tie and better knot. The buttons also look a little weird. I absolutely LOVE the pocket square and the fold.

Most importantly the look "fits" him. Overall a solid nine out of ten.

yeah, he looks good in it, despite all these "imperfections"

FWIW, i think the sleeves are a spot on fit.
post #19 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post
yeah, he looks good in it, despite all these "imperfections"

FWIW, i think the sleeves are a spot on fit.
You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder?
post #20 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder?
This suit is RTW, non?
post #21 of 104
I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.
post #22 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I think we are looking to do it at the end of this week, or next weekend.

I think it is hysterical that people think the shoulder is too big. It is as though if the shoulder were even shorter, they think that his shoulder muscle would stop popping out. Makes a lot of sense .

but if the shoulder is extended further with way more paddings added, it will throw off the balance of the sleeves (and look as those retards in NFL), no?

Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
I think the misconception is that if the shoulder ended sooner, it wouldn't cave into the empty space above the deltoid. But what's funny is the way a misconception from AB's many threads is now infecting unrelated threads, and unnknowledge (groupthink) is being spread.

havent follow that ab trhead too closely, but were there any comments by legitimate tailors (as oppose to circle jerking igents) on how to solve that kind of problems?
post #23 of 104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

Ha, you just made my day .
post #24 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

So how do you fix that kind of problem? widening the sleeve circle?
post #25 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
What are dimplets, baby dumplings?

They are a secret cut by top master tailors with ponytails.

The suit looks too tight to me.

--Andre
post #26 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
What do you consider a 'better' knot and what's wrong with the buttons?

The knot just looks a little sloppy, I would have preferred a very neat FIH. The buttons themselves are OK, it's the position of the buttons that's a little weird.

But I am nitpicking, overall I love the look.
post #27 of 104
Other than the 2 buttons on the sleeves, this is classic RL to me. The shape of the peak lapels as well as the fabric point me clearly in that direction.

To be further definitive, I say RL from the early 1990's/late 1980's.
post #28 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder?

post #29 of 104
Hard to judge fit with that pose. From what I can tell of the cut, I don't think it works for him, and it is certainly not something I would choose for him (or for me).
post #30 of 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

I'm so confused. Which buttons were moved?
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