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Thinking of making a suit

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, I am thinking of making a new suit (MTM/bespoke), and I would like to get your advice. I will be working in an entry-level position, and anticipate using this suit for job interviews, etc. Would a navy pinstripe suit be slightly "arrogant" compared to a plain one? Also, would the pinstripe fit my body type (slightly heavy on the upper body, slimmer waist), or is it better for individuals who are slim throughout (so the pinstripes are more vertical, perhaps?.) Secondly, what details should I look for? I am thinking: 3 button? ticket pocket? flap pockets or patch pockets? side vents? tapered at the waist? I am interested in a more fitted look. Thanks for your advice.
post #2 of 12
For an interview in most fields, I'd stick w/ solid.... I interviewed in entertainment and was able to wear pinstripes. I'd go w/ a single breasted 3-button, ticket pocket, dual vents, flap pockets in solid navy. 2 is more classic, but 3 is good for suits w/ ticket pockets. Pete
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'm also thinking of either getting a blazer (solid navy with brass buttons) or a sportcoat (perhaps pinstripe navy)? What would you prefer?
post #4 of 12
re: navy blazer, i would say no. my sales guy says he always has his suits made w/ the jacket more "sportcoaty" so he can mix and match and he's a sharp looking guy. see if they can do that w/ your solid navy suit and get a blazer in something else. brass buttons? i've never been a fan of that look, but if you like it, do it.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
my sales guy says he always has his suits made w/ the jacket more "sportcoaty" so he can mix and match and he's a sharp looking guy.  
Thanks for the advice. What do others think about this? Also, can you elaborate how can the suit jacket be made more "sportcoaty" so I could inform my tailor accordingly?
post #6 of 12
honestly i have no idea, i guess you say "make me a sportcoat" then make somepants to match it. i've never done it, but he's told me he does it all the time and he knows his sutff
post #7 of 12
For an interview suit, solid charcoal or navy are often said to be the best choices, and I agree. I know some people (only a few) who will actually downgrade an interviewee who fails to follow that classic rule, on the theory that they either failed to ask around about interview attire, or ignored the advice they got. That's unfair, to be sure, but why take that chance? Nobody will ding you for wearing a nicely tailored charcoal gray or navy suit. Here in LA, three-button suits (or sometimes high-stance two button suits) are probably the norm for people under 30 who wear suits for work. Others can chip in if they disagree, but I think this is true most other places in the US. In LA you would probably stand out (not necessarily in a good way) as a young person if you wore a low-stance two-button suit, since practically everyone else wears three buttons. I would avoid patch pockets on an interview suit (too casual) and I would not put a ticket pocket on one. Personally I order ticket pockets on my suits because I use them for either my cell phone or my building access cards, but I think it would probably look a bit to "fancy" on an interviewee for an entry level job. So stick with two outside pockets, either flap or besom. I have no idea what "sportcoaty" would mean in a suit coat. My sport coats and suit coats are tailored very similarly, the only difference being the cloth selection. If you put blazer buttons on a navy blue coat, that coat would IMHO look funny with matching navy trousers. If you made the coat from a classic sport coat-oriented cloth (e.g. woolens/tweeds), matching trousers would look unnatural. If you need a sport coat, the best first purchase for workwear duty is probably a navy blazer, second coat can be anything else you like, but probably not another item in navy blue, for versatility reasons. I wouldn't buy a navy pinstripe sport coat--it would just look like you are wearing the suit of a pinstripe suit with a pair of odd trousers. If you like that look, just buy a navy pinstripe suit and use the coat for double duty.
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks to all who shared their opinion. I think the consensus is that I should get a plain navy suit. (I already have one in medium-dark grey but I think it is a bit too light and not very flattering on me). Can I ask for someone who is medium build, does a 3 button suit or a 2 button suit give a better illusion of height? Also, does it matter where the buttons are placed? Thanks again, I'm learning something new everyday.
post #9 of 12
With two button suits I think it pays to have the buttons not too low. This could probably relate more to how long your feet are in propotion to your torso but as mine are on the short side I try to have the buttons higher, if possible. Also, the gorge (notch) should be placed rather high as this gives an illusion of height. I second retronotmetro's (great nic.) comments. If you are aiming to blend in with your suit, leave ticket and patch pockets for later times. Weather to pick a 2 or 3 button suit depends on your location. A 3 button would be right in northern Europe but in conservative circles in USA, I suspect a 2 button would be spot on. B
post #10 of 12
gregory, the choice of 2 or 3 buttons, and the placement of those buttons, is a personal preference issue, regardless of what the prevailing fashion is. While a higher gorge/button placement is the prevailing style right now, you're best off with a cut that fits you well and makes you comfortable. If you go bespoke, a*good*tailor can help you pick the most flattering cut. A bad one might steer you right or wrong. MTM you are mostly confined to the preexisting patterns. Why not just go to a department store and try some suits on to see what you like best? Doing so could also help your tailor, since you can come in with some ideas of what you like.
post #11 of 12
To add to this, I once interviewed a guy for a Unix/Linux admin position. He was around 20-25 and had decided that dressing up was appropriate for a job interwies. He showed up in terrible slacks and a nasty green sportscoat that had probably fit thim well when he was 17. This outfit was a total disaster but the guy was not. I hired him on the spot and he never wore anything but jeans and t-shirts to work after that. Moral of the story: If you've got the goods, it won't matter how you are dressed. B
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Moral of the story: If you've got the goods, it won't matter how you are dressed. B
Unfortunately, not for banking/consulting/elitist sectors. And how comfortable will you be in introducing him to your associates? It's okay for him to dress that way if he stays in his little cubicle, never to be seen by anyone. When you interviewed him, you should just have picked up the phone called your secretary. "Carla, was it stated in our newspaper ad that dressing badly was a requirement for the position?" And I thought you knew better, BjornH.... sigh
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