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Demise of the 7-fold - Page 8

post #106 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Bespoke items are Edwin DeBoise/Steed, others a range of MTM/RTW stuff from my past, mostly Oxxford, Brioni, Barbera, etc.

Shirts...I'm still mulling over what's next, but most of what I have is Neapolitan RTW: Borrelli, Kiton, and Barba.


- B

What does a 2 piece DeBoise suite run?

What attracts you to Steed? I saw their site and was dubious when I saw you could make your MTM online. *shrug*

In about 6 months I'll be completely rebuilding my wardrobe and spending way too much to do it, and am trying to get ready. Is 4-5 shirts per season too much for bespoke? I was going with Geneva or CEGO but also going to try Kabazz and Charvet in Paris for shirts. Suits are still in question: meeting with Leonard next week.
post #107 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Hah! I have more, and hope to add one of yours at some point.

The untipped wool Kiton with the handkerchief edges is fairly recent...maybe a year or two.


- B

Well if you haven't bought a raffle ticket for the Make-A-Wish charity raffle yet pick one up and you could possibly win one for cheap (Shameless Charity Promotion)
post #108 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
What does a 2 piece DeBoise suite run?

What attracts you to Steed?

All is covered here in the A&S Expatriates thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
I saw their site and was dubious when I saw you could make your MTM online. *shrug*

I only know the bespoke side of Edwin's work. I suspect the whole online MTM stuff was only experimental, but he's a great guy and you can contact him directly about it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
In about 6 months I'll be completely rebuilding my wardrobe and spending way too much to do it, and am trying to get ready. Is 4-5 shirts per season too much for bespoke? I was going with Geneva or CEGO but also going to try Kabazz and Charvet in Paris for shirts. Suits are still in question: meeting with Leonard next week.

I have no direct experience with any of these makers except Charvet for RTW.

Given your list, however, it is unclear to me if you are firmed up in what style you want. My advice would be to come to an understanding on that first, and then seek out the makers who fit that approach.


- B
post #109 of 127
I want a mix of stuff. I really don't see how a Geneva vs Charvet shirt will be different other than fabrics, and possibly better construction. Certainly price. I guess that is what I don't understand the most - the differences to be found. I want something with a high armhole and something I can wear to the office, but also on the boat.
post #110 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
I want a mix of stuff. I really don't see how a Geneva vs Charvet shirt will be different other than fabrics, and possibly better construction. Certainly price. I guess that is what I don't understand the most - the differences to be found.

I want something with a high armhole and something I can wear to the office, but also on the boat.

Hmmm.

Forget aspects of construction. What do you think of as your style, or the style that you see yourself in after you get to the BMI that you are working to achieve?

- B
post #111 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Hmmm.

Forget aspects of construction. What do you think of as your style, or the style that you see yourself in after you get to the BMI that you are working to achieve?

- B

This question isn't meant to sound like an ass; but didn't I already say? I want to be able to wear beautiful clothes (be it shirts, knitwear, suits, jackets, trousers, ties) both at home, at a party, or at the office. I don't want to have to change. For that reason, I'll stick with button cuffs.

Can you be more specific? Sorry for the juvenile questions.
post #112 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
This question isn't meant to sound like an ass; but didn't I already say? I want to be able to wear beautiful clothes (be it shirts, knitwear, suits, jackets, trousers, ties) both at home, at a party, or at the office. I don't want to have to change. For that reason, I'll stick with button cuffs.

Can you be more specific? Sorry for the juvenile questions.

That would be the question I would ask you: can you be more specific? In other words, the desire for beautiful clothes is not really a style. What is beautiful to one, is not to another.

How about this: do you prefer...

A. A classic, structured Savile Row coat?

B. A softly tailored, draped Anderson & Sheppard coat?

C. A clean, neat northern Italian coat?

D. A softly tailored, draped southern Italian coat?

E. A soft-shouldered, American sack?

If you are a sartorial genius, you might wear several of these or mix and match...but that is dangerous.

What you like will determine who you see to make what you want.


- B
post #113 of 127
I really don't know. I like a bunch of the photos I have seen posted here. Hence the problem and the idea of having a few from each. I'd like to stay away from American tailoring though. I'm visiting logsdail next week - hopefully he can give me insights but will probably push towards his house style. I've tried on numerous coats; I really do like them all to be honest. Not knowledgeable enough to complain about a 4k+ suit yet. To be honest, I've had trouble staying away from MTM programmes at BG, but I know it's time to move on..
post #114 of 127
Well, speaking with Logsdail is a good start.

What do you find unsatisfactory about MTM that leads you to seak a bespoke maker?


- B
post #115 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Well, speaking with Logsdail is a good start.

What do you find unsatisfactory about MTM that leads you to seak a bespoke maker?


- B

The desire to have a pattern that is mine; the idea that I can have anything and I'll get top-rate service. The guy measuring me won't be sending the measurements to a sweat shop.
post #116 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
I really don't know. I like a bunch of the photos I have seen posted here. Hence the problem and the idea of having a few from each.

The challenge of sampling multiple tailors is not merely aesthetic. It takes time and patience enough to get an optimal product from just one.
post #117 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyibd View Post
The desire to have a pattern that is mine; the idea that I can have anything and I'll get top-rate service. The guy measuring me won't be sending the measurements to a sweat shop.

Those are all important things, but they are peripheral and secondary to style.

Style is first.

I'm spending a bit of time with you because you seem like a fellow who has means to accomplish what you want.

I am going to cross-reference your thread here. There is nothing about this look that would suggest Logsdail, for example.


- B
post #118 of 127
savvyibd - voxsatoria has given you sage advice. pick a style and choose a tailor in accordance with the style you want, not in accordance with the tagname you want. this is best for both you and the tailor you use.
post #119 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Those are all important things, but they are peripheral and secondary to style.

Style is first.

I'm spending a bit of time with you because you seem like a fellow who has means to accomplish what you want.

I am going to cross-reference your thread here. There is nothing about this look that would suggest Logsdail, for example.


- B
Thank you. You really are being very helpful.
post #120 of 127
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
Mr. Krull, did your father, by chance, own a small manufacturing concern?

I have to wonder how seriously we should entertain the inflammatory comments of one with such a conspicuous connection to a self-important aesthete turned confidence man.

If you have nothing but straight-forward intentions, I can't help but think it a shame, really. Such apt names are not easy to come by.

LOL! Shall I applaud you for making the connection between my name and one of the greatest works of 20th century literature?!!! Had I wished to be abstruse, surely I would have called myself Julien Sorel!!! When you can read Thomas Mann in the original German, dear fellow, I would love to discuss the work with you. Mulling over an English translation, quite frankly, is a waste of my time.
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