Managed to swing by Momofuku Shoto this week. The architecture of that entire building - the glass cube beside the Shangri La - is impressive. You walk in at street level to the noodle bar, a soaring open space as the 2nd floor above it is mostly catwalk. There is a bar on that 2nd floor which you get to over the catwalk but it is tucked into the hotel side. There are actually two small restaurants on the 3rd floor. We were in Shoto, the staff they said the other side was a more traditional restaurant, asian-inspired.
Shoto has only a tasting menu, maybe a dozen items, they seat 22 people in groups of 2-4. The space is interesting although awkward with four people. Its taken up by a granite bar, in a big U shape. Everybody sits on the outer edge on high bar chairs and the chefs are working in full sight on the inner side. A bit like eating at the bar at Origin. With 2 or 3 people it would have been fine, with our group even though they seated us wrapped around one the corners, the one on either end tended to be left out of one conversation or another. Watching the chefs is great if you have an interest in cooking, its almost like performance art. The meal took almost 3 hours - I should say I didn't find it interesting enough to keep my attention for that long. Its great to watch the plating - I always suck at that when I cook - everything is very precise, often arranged with large tweezers.
Overall the food was very good although with that many courses they ranged from ho-hum to fabulous. There was a little amuse of sea urchin in a cranberry sauce but the cranberry just overpowered everything and all you had left was the texture of the urchin. The spaghetti with sardine was...a lot like spaghetti in a carbonara with some fried sardines in it. Yawn. But the fatty goose wontons were great, as was the monkfish, and the foie gras in consomme. 36-hour veal cheek just melted in your mouth. Will definitely go again, would try to keep it to 2 or 3 people. Not the top restaurant I've ever been to but I really enjoyed it. The "can't get a sitting" vibe you get from the NY and Sydney restaurants isn't in place here yet. The guy we were talking to said they were always full near the end of the week but often had a few seats open at the beginning of each.