First 0f all, I'm sort of a minimalist at heart, so my opinions are colored. Â My personal style tends towards simple, uncluttered outfits, usually with some layering, with interesting accent pieces and but not extranenous accessories (For example, today I am wearing a light blue Yoko Devereaux tee with black print over a dove gray long sleeve tee, with slightly customized (i.e. repaired with different colored embroidery thread) Da'mage Rekko jeans, black on white Adidas Samoas and a Baltazar Iron Cross belt. Â Outerwear is a moleskin jacket over a with a vintage cream wool hoodie with pale blue and yellow highlights. Â Rather simple). Â
on yoko devereaux, absolutely love the sharp tailoring, simple but with an edge, and the casual wear is surprisingly rather restrained and totally wearable; it has always reminded me of helmut lang in a way (www.yokod.com
Have always liked this stuff. Â Like Helmut Lang, but cheaper, and I think a little more distinctive and street savvy these days. Â The tshirt collaborations are great (am wearing an Adam Walko one right now, and the outerwear is out of this world.
another designer in the same realm is oliver helden, creative and what appears to be a great technician with again, for the most part, thin silhouettes but wearable clothes; again, i give the helmut lang reference (www.oliverhelden.com
) i believe he assists marc jacobs with the designs for the "marc" and "marc jacobs" lines
Discovered him way basck when at fabric8.com, which is great for finding up and comers (they had Nice Collective long before the line was picked up by Barneys, Louis, etc... Â In my mind, just okay. Â Some of the fabrics are sort of cool (corduroy polo, anyone?), but his designs, to me, are just sort of like a less cool Cloak NYC. Â I didn't kbnow about the Marc Jacobs connection, but given the similarities between the Oliver Helden line and Cloak, unsurprising since both labels were started by Marc Jacob acolytes. I say that Cloak (especially in the past couple of F/W lines) has a much clearer vision and kicks Oliver Helden's ass. Â Some of the outerwear is pretty cool, but again, really reminiscent of Cloak.
ron-n-ron (first of all, who names both of their twins ron?) are these guys the new american dandy designer? absolutely no helmut lang influence at all but some interesting suiting, more like ozwald boateng (www.ron-n-ron.com
) lots of very bright colours
This label gets a lot of hype, but I would say that their line is mostly just that. Â It's like Ozwald Boateng, Vivienne Westwood, and Paul Smith all got really drunk and threw together an amalgam collection without any real direction on its own. Â I have to admit that the cuts look decent though, and wearable by regular shaped guys. Â Gimmicky though, and ultimately, I think they will fade into obscurity.
duckie brown, i really like some of the looks and cuts and the colour combinations, striking bright shirts with modest grey suits with a little bit of tamed vivienne westwood perhaps, etc., i think that this label is going to have a good future (www.duckiebrown.com
Good use of color, definitely, and the cuts are really nice - I will personally get some of their knitwear assesories, but do we need another Anglomania label? Â I could see this becoming a big brand, maybe supplanting old Vivienne, or even Paul Smith - the former seems to be getting less and less wearable, the latters collections have been underwhelming recently. Â But it won't be something I'll be looking and saving up for, unlike Yoko Devereaux.
last, obedient sons, i mention it because they have started some sort of collaberation with 16sur20, a men's wear line called "groupe 16sur20" but i have not seen anything from it; as for their own line and subdivisions, i like the creativity, not sure that there is much that i could wear from it but shows promise if they cut down on all the logos on their clothes (www.obedientsons.com
Liked them back in 2000, when they did less logoed, subdued pieces with cool details (like a plain white poplin shirt with black straps at the elbows, about 2 years before Helmut Lang did pretty much the same thing). Â SInce then, haven't seen all that much to be impressed with.