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Strange wrinkle in jacket

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Been an avid reader of this forum for sometime... enjoy all your posts. A strange situation I ran into today: When I steamed the lapel and chest of my Zegna MTM made of Trofeo fabric (17mil ~ 125 twist) for the first time, the fabric cringed and developed a series of vertical wrinkles on the chest pocket and the underside of the lapels. The wrinkles could not be removed by hanging the jacket vertically as only a horizontal pull can even out the wrinkles temporarily. How can these wrinkles be removed? is the fabric's reaction to steam common in high twist (thus high maintenance) fabrics? many thanks bensen
post #2 of 4
I think that's just the wool reacting normally to steam. A good pressing should get rid of the wrinkles. Just be sure to use a press cloth
post #3 of 4
The beauty of wool is that it can be stretched and shaped. What has happened is that the steam has stretched the fabric and it wasn't pressed and dried back into the original shape. It is not recommended that a steamer be used on tailored jackets specifically for this reason. When the coat is pressed on a machine, it is blown full of hot, wet steam, the fabric is shaped and pressed into place, then vacuum is used to remove all water from the garment, retaining it's press. The main reason why fused garments "blow-up" is because the presser at the dry cleaners didn't use enough vacuum and the water left inside causes the delamination.
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reponses alias and bestmaster.  I think I will leave the pressing to the professionals. I have done the same thing in the past on my other non-Trofeo suits without causing wrinkles.  Is the Trofeo known to be a temperamental fabric?  Lastly, knowing that steaming is what caused the wrinkles, what is the merit in do-it-yourself steaming? Thanks Bensen
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