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Of Macclesfield ties & fudge welts

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
I read from time to time of Macclesfield ties, which were quite popular in the early part of the 20th C. Apparently they are a rough woven tie of repeating geometric shapes (circles?), but for the life of me I can't find a picture that actually shows what they look like. Are they commonly made/worn today? Could someone post a picture showing the Macclesfield texture? Unrelated, but also confusing to me is the term 'fudge welt', which I see in the Edward Green catalog poster. Does anyone have an explanation and picture illustrating what the fudge welt is? Signed, Sartorially Curious in Dixie
post #2 of 38
The newest Alan Flusser book, "Dressing the Man", contains an extensive description and photos of the Macclesfield ties. Edit: Pleased Kentucky won on your birthday.
post #3 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Edit: Pleased Kentucky won on your birthday.
Yes, more pleased had they not fallen apart yesterday. Still, I'll live with our 2 seed in the tourney. Hmm, building pressure to actually buy the Flusser book.
post #4 of 38
Quote:
I read from time to time of Macclesfield ties, which were quite popular in the early part of the 20th C. Apparently they are a rough woven tie of repeating geometric shapes (circles?), but for the life of me I can't find a picture that actually shows what they look like. Are they commonly made/worn today? Could someone post a picture showing the Macclesfield texture?
I have been under the possibly mistaken impression that a Macclesfield had more to do with coloration (black and silver) rather than texture, but shall gladly await the authority of Manton.
post #5 of 38
Macclesfield is a parish in the north of England where French Hugenot weavers settled after Louis XIV revoked the Edit of Nantes and kicked them out of France.  It has been a center of woven silk manufacture for many years. When refering to ties, "Macclesfield" refers first to a tie made from silk woven in that parish.  It has also come to mean any similiarly woven silk, no matter where it is made.  Traditioanally, Macclesfield silk is made in tight woven patterns, with relatively small designs.  The most common Macclesfields are indeed black and white or black and silver, but that's not a requirement.  They are perhaps the most common because in England and a lot of Europe these are (or used to be) considered the "correct" wedding tie for wear with a morning suit (turn down collar shirt only) or dark lounge suit.  This practice of having all groomsmen dress identically is a fairly recent American invention.  So a well-dressed Englishman or European used to have a few such ties for weddings, christenings, and other "happy" formal occasions. There is another parish called Spitalsfield, which is in East London, where they make (or used to make) a similar kind of woven silk.  Traditionally, a Spitalsfield design has a larger scale than a Macclesfield.
post #6 of 38
Thread Starter 
Are they still woven in Macclesfield? Pictures, anyone?
post #7 of 38
Quote:
Are they still woven in Macclesfield? Pictures, anyone?
I believe they are. As for pictures, I couldn't find any readily available on the web. Do you have any of the "usual suspect" clothing books?
post #8 of 38
Thread Starter 
Don't have the Flusser mentioned above (must get it). I do have Roetzel (and Boyer's Elegance, but just drawings in it). I've done lots of searches trying to turn up online pictures. I found a couple of bow ties, but couldn't distinguish the weave. Doesn't anyone actually sell these things?
post #9 of 38
post #10 of 38
Check pages 66 & 67 of Roetzel.  The tie in the "wrong" photos is a Macclesfield,  Not a quintessintial Macclesfield, but a decent enough example.  For textbook Macclesfields, check Dressing the Man, p. 147.
post #11 of 38
Quote:
Quote:
(STYLESTUDENT @ Mar. 14 2005,08:28) Edit: Pleased Kentucky won on your birthday.
Yes, more pleased had they not fallen apart yesterday. Still, I'll live with our 2 seed in the tourney. Hmm, building pressure to actually buy the Flusser book.
Better a 2 seed than Arizona's 3-seed... As for the Flusser book, I saw an advertisement that it is currently available for less than sticker price at SteinMart. They are carrying a Flusser line of clothing now, so if you have that store in your neck of the woods, you might want to check it out. Bradford
post #12 of 38
I got one, by H&K. Remind me to send a picture.
post #13 of 38
Quote:
Unrelated, but also confusing to me is the term 'fudge welt', which I see in the Edward Green catalog poster. Does anyone have an explanation and picture illustrating what the fudge welt is?
Edward Green's "fudge welt" (no idea where the name comes from) is basically the same thing as the "storm welt" or "split-reverse welt" of other manufacturers. While a normal welt is a plain leather strip, the storm welt gets slit horizontally (maybe 2/3rds down). The top section is turned up against the sides of the shoe, to form a seal against water penetration while the lover section gets stitched underneath the shoe (like an ordinary welt).
post #14 of 38
What amazes me is that you sometimes see suede oxfords advertised with this feature.
post #15 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Check pages 66 & 67 of Roetzel.  The tie in the "wrong" photos is a Macclesfield,  Not a quintessintial Macclesfield, but a decent enough example.  For textbook Macclesfields, check Dressing the Man, p. 147.
Hmm, the Roetzel pic isn't really what I had imagined at all. I'll have to check out the Flusser. Of course if someone wanted to scan it... Thanks for the help folks.
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