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gieves & hawkes personal tailoring

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
After reading all the positive posts on Chan, I was planning on getting a bespoke made upon my visit to Hong Kong, but unfortunate my trip got cancelled. I am, however, going to London in the begining of May. As much as I would love to indulge myself with a Savile Row bespoke, I do not think it is a feasible option at this point in my life. Rather, I am willing to compromise for a MTM suit. Being a MTM/Bespoke virgin and having no knowledge of Savile Row (actually all London-based tailors in general), I was wondering if the members of this board can help me out. The only London tailor, that I know of, with a MTM program is Gieves & Hawkes. What would be some of my other options, if any? Is anyone familar with G&A's personal tailoring service? How is G&A in general? Any feedback is greatly appreicated. Thanks in advance.
post #2 of 10
All MTM sold by SR tailors is, to the best of my knowledge, made by Chester Barrie.  They do fine work.  The one exception is the Kilgour "Shanghai Bespoke", which is made (you guessed it) in Shanghai.  Whether or not that that is truly bespoke or MTM is a matter of theological controversy.  Huntsman also has a MTM program, which uses CB.  I'm not sure what the prices are.  Or you can simply go to Chester Barrie itself, 32 Savile Row.  I don't know, but would guess that they would charge somewhat less than one of the other houses who sells their make.  By going to the source, you pay only one mark-up, after all. The last time I checked, Gieves charged 2,750 GBP for a full bespoke suit.  I don't really think the silhouette is all that flattering; I haven't seen the MTM silhouette, but have a hard time believing it would be much better.  Over the years, they have vastly expanded their business into other avenues, so that bespoke now only accounts for some minescule percentage, like 2% or 3%.  I don't know the figure for MTM, but I'm sure it's pretty low.  I would at least check out Chester Barrie if I were you.  Chances are you will get a better price and better service.  The only reason to order from one of the other houses that uses CB for "cut, make & trim" is if you are enamoured of the house style.
post #3 of 10
I think I read on Ask Andy about the CB factory, which is a bit outside of London. If I recall correctly, you can go there, and they will make MTM for a good price. Maybe someone on this forum has tried this, and can weigh in? Otherwise try to do a search in the Archives.
post #4 of 10
perhaps contact Tom, who will give you the full bespoke service for GBP1610 http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000006.html
post #5 of 10
Many SR firms offer MTM in some way shape or form. Gieves' is somewhat reasonable, at 695 pounds. For the price I think it's likely a fused suit. James and James offers a MTM program; they use or used to use an imaging program in their shop,then have suits laser cut by a company called Paname. Around 700 pounds. Richard James offers MTM but at 1200 pounds I don't think it's a good deal. Steed Savile Row and Richard Anderson offers MTM,but I am not sure what you get or how much it is. While Chester Barrie may do some MTM it is important to note that there are some inferior factories also being used to produce RTW suits and likely some MTM. I believe the James and James MTM suit is made in a factory in (horrors.) France. Chester Barrie is the best RTW maker in Britain. I would go to their Savile Row shop (maybe subsumed under the "Hield" brand?) to check on MTM. They may only do it from their factory in... Cheshire? Chester Barrie RTW is made to a high spec for Huntsman and sold in the Huntsman shop. I am not certain if the tailoring possibilities there are MTM or simply a very competent alterations program. The incredibly knowledgeable RSS, active on askandy if not on this forum, would know better. The Kilgour Shanghai bespoke price has crept up over the years and now is 1100 pounds or so without a fitting. There are some non-SR-based firms that can do you a good and cheaper bespoke -- Redmayne or Goldings spring to mind. There are also pretenders and upstarts like 40 Savile Row, Roderick Charles and Alexandre Savile Row, which offer MTM rather than bespoke. I would go to Chester Barrie for MTM. Even if it meant going to the factory. While Chester Barrie used to make RTW for Gieves & Hawkes at one point and still may, it is important to note that (I believe) they made lines to different quality specifications, so that what Gieves sold for 400 pounds may differ in quality from what is 800 pounds at Huntsman. Bottom line: avoid a flashy designer name and cut out the middleman. Sorry for the disjointedness, still in the middle of the RJ espresso.
post #6 of 10
I know that Huntsman offers MTM, made by CB.  Gieves MTM used to be made by CB, and for all I know some line still is.  As for the rest, listen to RJMan.
post #7 of 10
Wait a minute Basie, if you're in the States near a big city there's a good chance Chan comes to you. Have you contacted them for their itinerary?
post #8 of 10
In this forum and other fora people discuss usually the pros (price, "bespoke"ish process) and the cons (details and a platora of misunderstanding, the infamous "it's good but ...) of Chan. What about the characteristics of the suit. How is silhouette compared with the names mentioned above (SR) ? Italian (Rome, Napoli)? B
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Wait a minute Basie, if you're in the States near a big city there's a good chance Chan comes to you.  Have you contacted them for their itinerary?
Actually, NYC is 15-20 mins away from where I'm from, but I have been in South Korea the past couple of years and won't return permenantly to the States for another three (thats why I was so keen on Alias's bespoke made in SK). I do return back to the States about twice a year, but my visits never seems to coincide with any of the bespoke trips. How is Huntsman's silhouette like? I'm looking for a very fitted silhouette. Also, can shoulders be altered in a MTM suit?? I would consider CB as an option, but I don't think I can leave London. I will be travelling with friends and would not want to hamper our vacation. Anyway, much graditude to all for such informative posts, especially to Manton and RJMan. I feel like the fog has been cleared thanks to you two
post #10 of 10
Dunhill's custom program is worth a visit, the head bespoke/MTM guy is named Ian, good chap.
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