I think the sportcoat I got is actually newer -- a model from last year I believe. We'll see. As for machine versus hand: for one, I've found that a hand canvassed lapel will have a more lasting roll and will lay flatter on the chest. It holds its shape better, most likely due to the fact that when doing it by hand, the maker can get the thread tension right. Moreover, I imagine that along with hand canvassing the lapel, the maker takes greater care in the pressing. I've seen a lapel that has been canvassed by machine (i.e. seen the exposed lapel in a basted state) and hand stitching the lapel canvas is a far superior method. I'm not sure whether Polo BL does it by machine or hand, but in any event it is done very well if it is machine. In terms of the hand canvassing the rest of the coat, I'm not really sure what the difference would be. The canvassing is stitched in at only a few critical areas (hence the term "floating front"), so I can't see why doing it by hand would give you that much advantage. However, once again, where the canvas is placed by hand, I've found that the canvas molds to the body just a little bit better. I'd chalk this up not to the stitching though, but rather to the care that is probably also taken in molding the canvas into shape prior to stitching it into the coat.' Seriously though, I don't mean any knock on Blue Label. I absolutely love the cut and the fabrics are usually excellent. The are also very light and soft.
post #46 of 55
3/11/05 at 1:46am