I'm continually wondering what exactly determines how a suit's shoulder slope? It seems to me that a square shoulder can't be made square simply through the padding. And it can't be made square simply through the stitching. (Conversely, a sloped shoulder can't be made slope simply by either padding or stitching). It seems to me that it has something to do with the cutting, specifically by where the collar sits on the neck of the collar (i.e. a square shoulder's collar will actually sit a bit lower on the sides of the neck, which will make the start of the shoulder start at a point on closer to the same "latitude" as the sleeve head). Perhaps Manton can confirm or deny my suspicions.
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3/9/05 at 4:27pm