So I guess when I see some of the lighter weight RTW suits that have sort of limp lapels (comparitively speaking to other full canvas suits), I can chalk some of that up to the fabric, but a lot of it up to lack of attention to detail in the stitching and pressing.
Some very light cloth will not sustain a roll indefinitely just due to the laws of physics. Â I can't offer any hard & fast guidelines for the minimum weight of cloth that can sustain a decent roll, and which weight will be limp, as you have to assess each cloth individually, not just factoring in weight but also its softness, pliability, and texture. Â A lighter weight tweed, for instance, might still provide an attractive roll, whereas a heavier Millionaire Cashmere (extremely soft) or Golden Bale cloth (very soft) might not hold a roll. Â I have a few Golden Bale blazers that have gone semi-limp just from being a bit pressed together in the closet. Â Other heavier garments have better memories that enable them to just spring into action. Â That said, a bad pressing done at the cleaners can ruin any good roll, irrespective of weight. Â For this reason, a prideful and accommodating tailor will invite his customer to return dry-cleaned garments he has made for a professional pressing. Â It's a very "pressing" matter. Grayson