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First annual "suit off"...... - Page 2

post #16 of 17
So I guess when I see some of the lighter weight RTW suits that have sort of limp lapels (comparitively speaking to other full canvas suits), I can chalk some of that up to the fabric, but a lot of it up to lack of attention to detail in the stitching and pressing.
Some very light cloth will not sustain a roll indefinitely just due to the laws of physics.  I can't offer any hard & fast guidelines for the minimum weight of cloth that can sustain a decent roll, and which weight will be limp, as you have to assess each cloth individually, not just factoring in weight but also its softness, pliability, and texture.  A lighter weight tweed, for instance, might still provide an attractive roll, whereas a heavier Millionaire Cashmere (extremely soft) or Golden Bale cloth (very soft) might not hold a roll.  I have a few Golden Bale blazers that have gone semi-limp just from being a bit pressed together in the closet.  Other heavier garments have better memories that enable them to just spring into action.  That said, a bad pressing done at the cleaners can ruin any good roll, irrespective of weight.  For this reason, a prideful and accommodating tailor will invite his customer to return dry-cleaned garments he has made for a professional pressing.  It's a very "pressing" matter. Grayson
post #17 of 17
Just a quick afterthought that for those with larger or developed chests, too prominent a roll to start with on a three-button front might be made even more prominent as your chest will, in effect, push the roll outwards. This is compounded with heavier cloth that produces a heavier roll. A skilled tailor can minimize the negative effects of a larger chest, heavier cloth, and a three-button front. However, with heavier cloth, I've come to prefer a 2-button front, where the roll occurs at a lower point than with a three-button front, creating a smoother appearance overall. And, I'm a fan of true 3-button jackets--But, for my chest proportions, I think a 2-button design has greater aesthetic and structural appeal. Grayson
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