Yesterday I purchased, for a grand total of $450 (covered entirely with a store gift card I got as "points" for prior purchases.), a Hickey Freeman suit. This isn't just an ordinary Hickey Freeman though -- but it was priced like one, fortunately -- but rather was made as a "sample" for the Fall 2002 line. The label inside the suit says "Hickey Freeman" and underneath that another label says "Handsewn." I examined the suit and the collar, sleeves, and lining are attached by handstitching The front of the coat is finished with handpicking. The lapels are hand-padded. The pants are finished with similar handpicking along the fly and pockets. The pants have a great fit with a split back waistband (normal rise though). Buttonholes are handsewn. The suit is a high-gorge, double vented, with unfinished sleeves that can be cut with working buttonholes. The shape of the lapels look nothing anyother Hickey I've seen. The shoulders remind me more of Kiton than of Hickey Freeman -- soft, lightly padded, narrower, sloped (though not overly so), with a soft "poof" (not firm roping) at the sleeve head. It is a three button that rolls 2 1/2 -- a true Neopolitan three button (i.e. the lapel rolls to about halfway between the second and third button -- just perfect). The waist is moderately suppressed. Unlike other Hickey's, I could wear this as is, though will probably get the waist taken in about one more inch. As for fabric -- it is a dark grey (with brownish undertones) glen plaid with a rust overpane in what I'd call a 2 1/2 to 3 season weight. Clearly an English worstered. Very soft hand, but also very sturdy. Anyone know exactly what I've bought here? This is not a HF Customized, but rather appears to be a one of a kind handsewn model. The fit, handwork, and softness makes it every bit the equal of Oxxford IMO. However, the styling strikes me as the perfect joining of American and Neopolitan. I've never seen this type of HF before and am excited to know what the deal is.
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3/8/05 at 1:03pm