1) Drop. Most men have one shoulder that is lower than the other. This can make the shoulders look unbalanced. Worse, it makes the coat hang down farther on one side (the dropped side) so that the waist button and buttonhole don't line up. Easy enough to correct if you catch it early, so look for it.
It's OK, they took it into account.
2) Shoulder width. How wide the shoulders of a coat end up is partly a matter of fit and partly a matter of silhouette; i.e., partly utlititarian and partly aesthectic. Wider shoulders balance a body with slight shoulders and larger hips. But unless they are super soft, they will not allow as much freedom of movement as will close shoulders. This, again, gets harder to alter the further along you are in the process, so decide what you like as early as you can.
I am of the "slight shoulders and larger hips" kind so I understand that the shoulders should not be too narrow. But the shoulders looked huge, way too extended to look natural. So this will be changed (I have a second fitting this evening).
3) Sleeve pitch. 99.7% of men's arms pitch forward when they are allowed to hang naturally. But the angle differs from individual to individual. The pitch of the coat sleeves must match the actual angle of your arms' pitch if the sleeves are to hang smoothly. Check this at the basted fitting, BEFORE the shoulder is sewn.
OK, I'll check this with the new shoulders.
4) Trouser line. Both the front and back trouser creases should hang more or less straight all the way to the break at the shoe (if you choose to have a break). For various reasons, it is easier to get the front crease right than the back crease. If the back crease looks sloppy, the most likely reason is that the trouser rise is too low in back. Get that fixed BEFORE the waistband is sewn.
I ordered a pair of trousers from them and received them yesterday when I had the fitting. I wore them in my apt last night and noticed that the crease tends to go outwards then back in, which makes my legs look like they are very
bowed. I don't want to look like a cow boy. So I have the trousers with me and I'll see tonight what can be changed. I guess that removing the cuffs and having slanted hems would remove some material in the front and help fix this problem. But can this be fixed without the cuff removal? Mathieu