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Denim 101 for Men's Clothing - Page 95

post #1411 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by negusnegas View Post

I have been searching all over the forum, but haven't had much luck. I am trying to find some slim to skinny jeans with a roomier seat and a decent rise. I have had a tough time finding denim with a comfortable top block, because it seems nobody cuts for athletic, but slender builds.

I have somewhat muscular legs and a butt and I've done well with KMW, Nudie, and Samurai jeans. APC just didn't work for me.
post #1412 of 1451
I just saw this thread and I havent really much experience with MC appropriate denim but I just invested in a pair of Gustins and wore them quite a bit. I love the fit and material used in their denim. I just ordered another 2 pairs and will post updates.
post #1413 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tck13 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by negusnegas View Post

I have been searching all over the forum, but haven't had much luck. I am trying to find some slim to skinny jeans with a roomier seat and a decent rise. I have had a tough time finding denim with a comfortable top block, because it seems nobody cuts for athletic, but slender builds.

I have somewhat muscular legs and a butt and I've done well with KMW, Nudie, and Samurai jeans. APC just didn't work for me.

 

I am in a similar situation and the LVC 1955 works well. You need to size down 1-2 sizes though.

post #1414 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by sho'nuff View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarmac View Post
I think sho'nuff is implying that it is difficult to buy the 1 pair of top-line repro jeans which are perfect for you right off the bat, when you know almost nothing about them in general.

Typically, the pattern goes something like this:
Guy wants stylish jeans.
Balks at the $300 repro price. "wtf? forget that. I'd rather buy another pair of brown wingtips"
Buys APC, Cheap Monday, or Naked Famous instead for $150.
3 months later, he buys $300 repro jeans.

I think this pattern is fine, it's basically what I did.

yes. you nailed it perfectly.
 

LOL.  Indeed.  Same MO here:

 

Unbranded->Kicking Mule->Momotaro->Ironheart.

 

I'd almost like to see a subthread on folk's progressive descent into jeansohalism.

post #1415 of 1451

duplicate post.  deleted.

post #1416 of 1451

In case anyone buys some Japanese denim with untranslated care instructions, here is my translation of a clothing care guide from a recent Men's Ex:

 

http://friction-less.blogspot.com/2013/09/mens-ex-special-edition-japanese-and.html

 

It covers the Japanese Industrial Standard of care pictograms, as well as those from the International Organization for Standardization.

 

I hope this might be helpful for some of you.

 

All The Best, My Friends!

Christopher Berry

post #1417 of 1451
^Nice.

As an aside, I just bought a couple of pairs of Red Cloud 14.5oz jeans - R425XX and R424XX. I admit I got sucked in because I have an affinity for things 'monkey'/ 'monkey king'. They're very nice for the price - excellent material and construction. Currently cold soaking.
post #1418 of 1451

5 year old thread, and people are still asking the internets to size their g-stars. Here are this dad's tips on how to purchase and care for non-dadcore jeans:

 

-size them pretty tight in the waist / ass / thighs. Any denim in the standard 14-16 oz range will stretch a decent amount, and will end up baggy if they fit like trousers when new.

-all raw denim fades pretty decently if worn hard and washed regularly.

-dark rinse denim is not the same as raw denim. Don't do it.

-there is no earthly reason to buy pre-distressed jeans. They are the current version of the polyester plaid bellbottom suit.

-cuff once or stack. do not get them hemmed too short. Cardinal sin. 

-a leg opening i.e. "hem" of less than 7 inches makes it difficult to get your pants off in a hurry. This is not a problem men need create for themselves.

-any ornamentation beyond a waistband patch and simple pocket arctuates is probably a huge mistake. Unless you're thinking about True Religion jeans, in which case, go for it brah. 

-SF's version of "quality" has much more to do with iconoclastic fussiness on the part of the maker. Jeans perceived as high quality will not necessarily last longer, fit better, or fade better. Holes happen. But you'll probably love nice jeans more, so don't cheap out.

-polished shoes are never the best option to wear with jeans, no matter what mr porter tells you.

post #1419 of 1451

I've never liked Short Term trend jeans.. whether they are Skinny Jeans or Bell bottoms. 

 

I like classic fits that TRANSCEND over TIME and TRENDS. 

 

I need to buy 1-3 of such ones. 

 

Upon reading online there is lot of talk about Raw & Selvedge jeans. 

 

What would be the Gentleman approved Jeans right now? Good VALUE please. 

 

Please suggest the following details for your recommendations: (Is there a BEST OF list that I am missing?)

- Color/ Shade/ Wash / Look

- Brand + Model / Fit 

- Price (Retail and Sales) 

- Where to buy? 

post #1420 of 1451

Interesting points here. I am trying to figure out what to go for in terms of fit, style, brand, fabric.. based on you all's discussion. 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Quote:

Originally Posted by johanm View Post


All this talk about "slim" "straight" and "taper" is misleading. Really what you need to know about jeans is (a) do the waist/thighs fit, and (b) is the leg opening the size you want.

Many "straight fit" jeans have no taper from knee to ankle, but are very slim, because they have small thighs and knees - e.g. Levi's 1947 inspired cuts. Likewise, many "tapered" jeans look fairly relaxed because they have wide thighs and knees - e.g. Levi's 1966 cuts.

I'm also confused by the notion that the "MC aesthetic" requires jeans with wide leg openings. The classic style of wearing jeans from the "golden era" of the 1940s - 1970s was very slim. Likewise, all the favorite MC brands like Borrelli and Incotex make jeans that are skinnier than most SW&D brands. If there's any difference between the MC and SW&D aesthetics it would be that MC favors more vintage/faded looking jeans and SW&D likes raw or contrast faded jeans, but even that is not really true.

I don't even know what the historical reference point is for wide leg openings on jeans. 19th century miners? 1990s hip hop? Dads and IT professionals (or what you refer to as "work casual")?
 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post


I understand the terms you are talking about (carrot, anti fit, taper, etc). My point is only that "taper" can mean either narrow leg opening or wide thigh/knee. The bottom line is that the fit of jeans depends on the relationship between your body dimensions and the thigh/knee/ankle measurements. If you have a slim thighs for your waist and normal calves, then a "straight" fit sized down is going to be slimmer than a taper fit TTS because the thighs would be baggy otherwise.

I don't know why you're getting so aggressive with your jeans knowledge and dismissive of everyone else on this forum. I'm a MC poster but I have a wide collection of raw denim including Samurai (s710xx and s710bk), IH (Beatle Busters and Devil's fit), Eternal (811), APC (NS), Warehouse (660), and LVC (1966). My conclusion is that for my body type (relatively tall with wide hips, normal thighs, and narrow calves/ankle), a tapered fit with about an 8" - 8.25" leg opening on 35-36 waist gives the optimal silhouette. My favorite jeans are Samurai s710xx and some APC new standards that I had tapered from the knee down. I've also tried Borelli and Incotex jeans and trust me they about as skinny as Dior 19cm or APC PS.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post


What does that even mean? If you're wondering why I'm "aggressive" it's because stuff like this is coming off as trolling, especially when you don't bother to answer any of my requests or correct yourself or your generalizations. Maybe you're just not that articulate, or maybe I'm just that simple, but when a brand describes their jeans as being "tapered," by definition they're talking about the cuff being of smaller measurement across than the knee. I honestly have no idea what you're talking about.

The rest about having "slim thighs for your waist" and "normal calves?" What are normal calves? What are slim thighs? What does any of that have to do with whether or not a pair is tapered? And how does sizing down fit into any of this?

I think you and I are on far different planets.
People who make those jeans and people who wear those jeans might want to have a word with you. What isn't "awkwardly tight" for you? And how would you know that the person wearing those jeans isn't comfortable? I'm being completely serious. Pull up iconic photos of people in jeans from the 60s/70s/80s and you'll see the same fits.

 


Edited by XFactor - 10/3/13 at 4:14am
post #1421 of 1451
Some slight shrinkage after cool soaking. Generally fits better particularly in the butt and thighs. I'm going to get more Red Cloud, looks like a good buy at the price.
post #1422 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post
 

I've never liked Short Term trend jeans.. whether they are Skinny Jeans or Bell bottoms. 

 

I like classic fits that TRANSCEND over TIME and TRENDS. 

 

I need to buy 1-3 of such ones. 

 

Upon reading online there is lot of talk about Raw & Selvedge jeans. 

 

What would be the Gentleman approved Jeans right now? Good VALUE please. 

 

Please suggest the following details for your recommendations: (Is there a BEST OF list that I am missing?)

- Color/ Shade/ Wash / Look

- Brand + Model / Fit 

- Price (Retail and Sales) 

- Where to buy? 

Anyone please? 

post #1423 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post

Anyone please? 

Personally, I like Rag & Bone; that's pretty much all I wear. I think you might like J Brand as well (used to have some of these too). You can also always go to J. Crew, their denim tends to be rather removed from seasonal trends and they'll be a bit cheaper than the others. At retail, the first two are +/- $200, while on sale you can probably expect to pay about 1/3 to 1/2 less, depending on your size. J. Crew will probably start in the $80-90 range, and they have coupon offerings all the time.
post #1424 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post


Personally, I like Rag & Bone; that's pretty much all I wear. I think you might like J Brand as well (used to have some of these too). You can also always go to J. Crew, their denim tends to be rather removed from seasonal trends and they'll be a bit cheaper than the others. At retail, the first two are +/- $200, while on sale you can probably expect to pay about 1/3 to 1/2 less, depending on your size. J. Crew will probably start in the $80-90 range, and they have coupon offerings all the time.

Would there be anything decent in the $40-50 price range? (with sale or without?)

post #1425 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post

Would there be anything decent in the $40-50 price range? (with sale or without?)

Perhaps J. Crew when they have something on sale and then have an additional 20-40% off sale with a coupon. Otherwise, you can scour sites like Barney's Warehouse Sale (now year-round and online) or Yoox. At the end of the day it'll be a little tough to find something that really has polish in that price range at full price. End of season sales at Bloomingdale's would also be a decent place to look.
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