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Denim 101 for Men's Clothing - Page 87

post #1291 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post


If you're still worried about the fit, you could always hold off on the chainstitching until after you've tried them on. Again, you should be fine but I can understand wanting to have piece of mind.

Well, turned out Self Edge's inventory was off and they didn't have any left, so they cancelled my order and refunded in full.

I either have to look at a different model, or order it directly from Iron Heart. My quest for a pair of SF-approved jeans continues.
post #1292 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellahi22 View Post


36 inseam is the hard part, otherwise the APC Original Standards would be ideal. Same cut as the new standard except higher rise. They end up around 34 inseam after washing though.


Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do you know of any stores that still sell Original Standards? I've had no luck finding them, except used on eBay/B&S/etc.
post #1293 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

I'm currently wearing them daily but that will change to weekly when I start working. I suppose that means I shouldn't be spending too much on them.

As for the mindset against fading, I think I just like how dark denim looks.

Anyway, thank you for all the explanations. I think they'll be of help to anyone else that comes across this topic too.
If you ever get a chance to visit a store that sells good denim, or find an online store with a very liberal return policy, do so. It's far easier to understand the difference in price when it's actually in your hands. There's a good jump from $40 Levi's to $170 selvage ones just as there's a jump from the $170 pair to the higher-end Japanese stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asian Afro View Post


Well, turned out Self Edge's inventory was off and they didn't have any left, so they cancelled my order and refunded in full.

I either have to look at a different model, or order it directly from Iron Heart. My quest for a pair of SF-approved jeans continues.
That's a shame but ordering from IH wouldn't be the end of the world. Also, it wouldn't surprise me if Selfedge did a restock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabidawg View Post

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do you know of any stores that still sell Original Standards? I've had no luck finding them, except used on eBay/B&S/etc.

As far as I know, OS haven't been made in ages. I haven't seen them sold online or in stores in years. There are other companies that make inseams longer than 34", however.
post #1294 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post


As far as I know, OS haven't been made in ages. I haven't seen them sold online or in stores in years. There are other companies that make inseams longer than 34", however.

Makes sense. Is there anything currently available with that fit (NS, but with a slightly higher rise)? I like the Rescue's rise, but I don't like their lowered rear pockets and no knee-to-ankle taper . I realize I can have them tapered pretty easily, so it's really the slightly dropped pockets versus the OS/NS that kill the rescue as an option.
post #1295 of 1451
Here is a pictorial showing what a difference quality can make in terms of jeans for those who are too afraid of trying anything beyond Levis. Having not owned denim more expensive than APCs I cannot comment of the durability of many SW&D brands (Somet, KMW, Iron Heart, etc) compared to APCs.
post #1296 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabidawg View Post


Makes sense. Is there anything currently available with that fit (NS, but with a slightly higher rise)? I like the Rescue's rise, but I don't like their lowered rear pockets and no knee-to-ankle taper . I realize I can have them tapered pretty easily, so it's really the slightly dropped pockets versus the OS/NS that kill the rescue as an option.

Not off the top of my head because that sounds really specific. I'd recommend you looking for sites that give measurements like Self Edge, Blue in Green, Context, etc. but if you're looking at the OS, you're probably looking at the sub $200 range and that's a whole other deal. You could try checking the Under $200 thread and comparing brands there.
post #1297 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post


Not off the top of my head because that sounds really specific. I'd recommend you looking for sites that give measurements like Self Edge, Blue in Green, Context, etc. but if you're looking at the OS, you're probably looking at the sub $200 range and that's a whole other deal. You could try checking the Under $200 thread and comparing brands there.

Will do. Thanks for taking the time to address my questions. I appreciate it.
post #1298 of 1451
I would imagine that an alternative to slow fade indigo is to get a pair of waxed or coated. a light coating will pretty much stop any indigo rubbing off and you'll still have the same cut and style jeans.

question, just out of curiosity - is it a fair assumption that selvedge isn't sufficient to imply good quality denim (raw or not)?. Second, is it fair to assume that having a selvedge line limits the types of cuts? (eg APC NS has it but NC doesn't)
post #1299 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

question, just out of curiosity - is it a fair assumption that selvedge isn't sufficient to imply good quality denim (raw or not)?.
yup
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

Second, is it fair to assume that having a selvedge line limits the types of cuts? eg APC NS has it but NC doesn't

nope
post #1300 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

I would imagine that an alternative to slow fade indigo is to get a pair of waxed or coated. a light coating will pretty much stop any indigo rubbing off and you'll still have the same cut and style jeans.
Yes and no. The problem with coated jeans is that the treatment will eventually wear off and leave the indigo exposed. Some brands, like Naked & Famous, use this for effect in the example of their "reverse fading" denim where the jeans are coated white while fiber dyed indigo underneath. If you're thinking other garments like waxed jackets, for example, the fact that they're dyed differently means that they're meant to be colorfast from the start, unlike denim.

No, this goes back to how the jeans are dyed. Overdyes tend to hold their color better but really the strongest option would be to dye jeans in the manner you would a pair of slacks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

question, just out of curiosity - is it a fair assumption that selvedge isn't sufficient to imply good quality denim (raw or not)?. Second, is it fair to assume that having a selvedge line limits the types of cuts? (eg APC NS has it but NC doesn't)
1) Absolutely, in the same manner that telling you that I own a watch doesn't describe whether it's a Casio or a Breitling.
2) Not necessarily. If you're suggesting that you can't have a pair of tapered jeans with a selvage line, that's incorrect. I believe it has to do with how the manufacturer has decided to create the taper, ie, outseam vs inseam. I can think of a pair of womens' jeans that Selfedge carries that is selvage but no-show because the tapering was done on the outseam.
post #1301 of 1451
I'm a little bit confused about the term "raw" denim. Do you wear jeans that still have the sizing in them? Is this exclusively for fading? I'm 45, so I doubt very much that anyone is interested in my crotch fades...shog[1].gif

I have several pair of Levi's 501 STF that I picked up for $5 each (sear's father's day sale, on clearance). Two shrunk beautifully, the others are held in reserve as I continue my weight loss. Is there a reason to wear the reserve pairs with the starchy sizing?

Also, can you re-shrink STFs? Wear them in the tub to get them a little smaller along the waist or length?
Thanks!
-Cod
post #1302 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by CodPiece View Post

I'm a little bit confused about the term "raw" denim. Do you wear jeans that still have the sizing in them? Is this exclusively for fading? I'm 45, so I doubt very much that anyone is interested in my crotch fades...shog[1].gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post


Understand that there is a difference between "raw" and "shrink to fit." "Raw" merely refers to the non-distressed, non-washed (ie, redyed) description of the jeans. "Shrink to fit" is exactly what it sounds like and by definition is raw. Most of the jeans talked about on here are raw and sanforized, a process by which the cotton has been manipulated so that any future shrinkage in washing is minimized; they are not shrink-to-fit (STF).


"Raw" refers to the non-distressed nature of the denim. Raw means by appearance the jeans look untreated/non-distressed.

All jeans have sizing on them so I don't know what you're asking. Denim isn't a colorfast fabric so whether you notice it or not it will still fade over time with wear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CodPiece View Post

I have several pair of Levi's 501 STF that I picked up for $5 each (sear's father's day sale, on clearance). Two shrunk beautifully, the others are held in reserve as I continue my weight loss. Is there a reason to wear the reserve pairs with the starchy sizing?

Also, can you re-shrink STFs? Wear them in the tub to get them a little smaller along the waist or length?
Thanks!
-Cod

1) If a garment is intended to be shrunk before wearing, and you intend on washing the garment at some point, I don't know why you wouldn't follow instructions.
2) Any future washings would have minimal shrinkage.
post #1303 of 1451
>"Raw" merely refers to the non-distressed, non-washed (ie, redyed) description of the jeans.

This answers my question perfectly, thank you. All other questions are answered from this one bit of enlightenment.
Thanks!
post #1304 of 1451
No problem.


Can you guys do me a favor and not PM me if you're going to ask a question that I would already answer here? Odds are there is someone out there with the same kinds of concerns as you, so by PM'ing me you're basically denying future members access to that information, you're cutting out the chance that a fellow member might be able to answer your question better detail than I can, and you're making more work for me in having to repeat myself to other people.


I'm happy to help, as you can already see, but I'm not your paid personal denim consultant. If you'd like me to be, then I'd be happy to receive your PMs. Thanks.
post #1305 of 1451
Brand new and old, heavily washed APC NS:

01apcnsoudennieuwvoorka.jpg

01apcnsoudennieuwachter.jpg

03apcnsoudennieuwvoorka.jpg

04apcnsoudennieuwgulpen.jpg

05apcnsoudennieuwgulpen.jpg

02apcnsoudennieuwachter.jpg

(The new pair is one size smaller.)


@ whodini:
After I bought this one, I went to another store where I saw RRL; I was suprised to see them in NL. Good stuff? They were €270,– frown.gif.
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