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Denim 101 for Men's Clothing - Page 82

post #1216 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post
I like boring, so that's not a problem. That's actually what I like about the APC design: no bells and whistles. Just jeans with (in my eyes) nice proportions: rise is not too high or low, back pockets have the right shape, size and are in the right position, simple but nice buttons.
This is exactly what I want of jeans too. Even Levi's don't seem to get it. Even Brandless jeans are a bloody gimmick. APC just make standard, decent, well cut jeans.
post #1217 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
What's a good alternative to LVC 1947 with a lower rise?

Quote:
Originally Posted by laphroaig View Post
This is exactly what I want of jeans too. Even Levi's don't seem to get it. Even Brandless jeans are a bloody gimmick. APC just make standard, decent, well cut jeans.

I've been jonesing for these Spellbound jeans- they have no distinguishing marks but denim, (much less than Levi's which actually carry a lot of distinguishing marks!) and the cut looks right (10.5" rise for a 32 waist). Jay at Blue Owl Workshop carries them.

Having said that, I've never handled them, so it would be a leap of faith. The workmanship on Spellbound shirts is so good that I'd imagine the jeans are great.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet as I'm working a pair of 5 Easy Pieces x StyleForum jeans I found on B&S last year. Once they enter the "clearly faded" regime I'll need a pair of jeans that are clean and crisp again, and I'll be able to rationalize buying a pair.
post #1218 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post
There are loads of great straight leg jeans, it just comes down to what your budget is and specifically what you're looking for in denim.

Thanks. I've been meaning to stop by Self Edge... I think they carry Strike Gold. The best jeans I ever had were RRL, from like 6 years ago. I lost them somewhere. I think they were made by the 5EP guys? Really nice bluish-green denim. Great.

james... those Spellbounds look exactly like vintage Levi's. They even have the dropped back pockets. thanks.
post #1219 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhood View Post
Which brands cater to a big thigh but narrow calves?
It helps to know your budget but this thread might be of some help: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=66726

Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post
And thanks again. I like boring, so that's not a problem. That's actually what I like about the APC design: no bells and whistles. Just jeans with (in my eyes) nice proportions: rise is not too high or low, back pockets have the right shape, size and are in the right position, simple but nice buttons. The only problem is the waist (and the button holes that are "falling apart").

Ideally, I would like a couple of winter weight jeans and a couple of summer weight jeans, both in raw and in a lighter, midlblue wash. And all in the same, simple configuration.
When I mentioned "boring," I was repeatedly referring to the denim itself. If you take a look at the some of the denim we recommend , you'll see that what APC does isn't rocket science or even novel. If you click over to SW&D, you'll find other affiliates like Blue Owl and Epaulet that have jeans in lower price ranges.

What's a "midblue" wash for you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by laphroaig View Post
This is exactly what I want of jeans too. Even Levi's don't seem to get it. Even Brandless jeans are a bloody gimmick. APC just make standard, decent, well cut jeans.
I mean, I'd rather have MC be crawling in APC than the other dreck but as a denimhead it's like getting a guy to stop drinking Miller Lite to move on to something "fancier" like Stella Artois. I love Stella but there's a bigger world out there if you take the plunge. I feel I'd be doing a disservice if I told you that APC was the be-all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by james_timothy View Post
Having said that, I've never handled them, so it would be a leap of faith. The workmanship on Spellbound shirts is so good that I'd imagine the jeans are great.
Good man. Jay at Blue Owl knows his stuff when it comes to denim. I've never handled Spellbound in person, either, but knowing his background with KMW and what he carries at his shop, you really can't go wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Thanks. I've been meaning to stop by Self Edge... I think they carry Strike Gold. The best jeans I ever had were RRL, from like 6 years ago. I lost them somewhere. I think they were made by the 5EP guys? Really nice bluish-green denim. Great.
Sounds like you had a pair from the same period as mine. They were worked on by the same woman behind 5EP, a fact made evident by the characteristic greenish tint shared by both brands as you stated.

The point isn't necessarily to wear jeans to this point, or even that many would be able to given that this pair was worn nearly daily for a year and then on/off for several years; I like to think that I'm actually buying two jeans in one in that one pair stays relatively dark for a year or so of solid wear and the other pair stays faded and washed for the rest of its life:

post #1220 of 1451
Whodini,

Do you have a recommendation for a jean in a more relaxed fit? I have a stocky build, and have trouble finding good jeans to accomodate my build.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you could offer.

Not sure this helps, but Citizens of Humanity Evans is a good fit for me.
post #1221 of 1451
^ The standard answer would be APC rescues. The better answer would be "find a store that sells some good stuff and try a whole bunch of 'em on".
post #1222 of 1451
Arli, Look at the first sentence in the post right above yours. I gave a link and asked an important question.
post #1223 of 1451
Thanks. My bad for overlooking that.
post #1224 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post
When I mentioned "boring," I was repeatedly referring to the denim itself. If you take a look at the some of the denim we recommend , you'll see that what APC does isn't rocket science or even novel. If you click over to SW&D, you'll find other affiliates like Blue Owl and Epaulet that have jeans in lower price ranges.

Ah, okay. I thought you meant the simple design as well. The problem (my problem) with those brands is that they're not available over here (The Netherlands), so it will be hard to compare fabrics and fits. (I'm not going to order ten, and send back nine.) Besides, I'd miss the personal advice, which is quite important, I imagine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post
What's a "midblue" wash for you?

I think what people refer to as the dad's jeans colour. Not light blue, not navy. The colour of most default jeans in the eighties... (At least, over here.)
post #1225 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post
Ah, okay. I thought you meant the simple design as well. The problem (my problem) with those brands is that they're not available over here (The Netherlands), so it will be hard to compare fabrics and fits. (I'm not going to order ten, and send back nine.) Besides, I'd miss the personal advice, which is quite important, I imagine.
I'm not sure about denim shops in NL. I know Blue Blood is fairly common but as I remember they're pretty expensive for what they are. You should have easy access to brands like Lee which I'd personally put around or above the denim quality of APC.

Looks like you've got these guys in Amsterdam, and they carry Momotaro (great), Atelier (really good), Edwin (ok), Tripleworks (great), Real Japan Blues (great), and Ralleigh (good, Cone). http://www.tenuedenimes.com/shop/cat...-pants/?page=1

It also looks like there's a place called Spoiled in Amsterdam/Rotterdam that carries PRPS (great) and Levi's Vintage, aka, LVC: http://www.spoiled.nl/

I've heard of Tenue before but I came across both places just by Googling. I might PM you later as my cousin lives in The Hague and might know a place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post
I think what people refer to as the dad's jeans colour. Not light blue, not navy. The colour of most default jeans in the eighties... (At least, over here.)
Ok. They're this color because of the artificial color-fast dyes that are used. If it helps, raw denim eventually comes out close to this color after repeated washes.

Remember how I mentioned that Cone was typically known for being very straight-forward and "blueberry?" This is a pair after a couple of months of wear and a machine wash:
post #1226 of 1451
Ive been trying to find some levi's 501 lvc 1944s but I can't find any to try on in my area (Los Angeles)!

These APC Rescues sound pretty up my alley as well, but where can I try these on? I know they sell APCs at the barneys co-op in south coast plaza, but Im not sure if they carry rescues. Any ideas? Help a big thighed brotha out!
post #1227 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saltricks View Post
Ive been trying to find some levi's 501 lvc 1944s but I can't find any to try on in my area (Los Angeles)!

These APC Rescues sound pretty up my alley as well, but where can I try these on? I know they sell APCs at the barneys co-op in south coast plaza, but Im not sure if they carry rescues. Any ideas? Help a big thighed brotha out!
Any reason why you're set on the '44 or APC? Depends on what part of LA you're in, but there are several options. On La Brea, you've got American Rag and Self Edge just a couple of blocks away from each other. You could also check out RRL and their Straight Leg model. If you're set on the '44, you could try calling the Levi's store out in Malibu as they carry LVC and might be able to track down a specific pair. Most Barney's I've been to around LA carry APC and it'd just take a call to one of them to find out which store has the pair you want in stock.
post #1228 of 1451
You're a great help, whodini. But I think I can't see the wood from the trees anymore... So many options. Result of some quick observations: Lee and Edwin look decent, but the pockets are too long and low; I don't like the look and I find them impractical because my wallet sits too low in them. I didn't remember the names you posted, but while browsing the Tenue de Nîmes site, my eyes fell on Momotaro. When I read your post back, I saw the name and your "verdict". Those look very nice indeed, but I don't like the price... Same (and worse) goes for PRPS, if I'm not mistaken. Frans Boone (where I buy my suits) sells them. He also sells Baldwin; not too cheap either. Do you know Norse Projects? On the one hand my wishes are simple: basically APC NS fit and styling with a smaller waist and a bit more room in the thighs, and perhaps in a better/more interesting fabric. Price: €100-€150 for now. On the other hand, those seem quite hard to find... Still a lot of homework for me to do, I guess. Or better: shopwork (and I hate shopping).
post #1229 of 1451
I'm familiar with Norse as I've gotten into Danish brands over the past year or so. The problem is that they belong in the same class as APC: I'm sure they're fine and they're a step up from the ordinary crap, but they're still a clothing company offering a pair of jeans rather than a jeans company offering a pair of jeans. With your budget in mind, it looks like you can go a few routes: you can either continue to buy APC and brands like APC, you can deal hunt on ebay with a specific company in mind, or you can save up and bite the bullet. If you can check out some of the companies I'm recommending, it'd be a lot easier for you to understand the difference in price as well as to compare to your APCs. To clarify, though, there's nothing wrong with APC and especially being in Europe I can understand how much easier and cheaper it could be to take that route. My point is more that there are other, prettier, fish swimming in the same pond so it may benefit you to look at the other options first.
post #1230 of 1451
Recently started buying Rag & Bone again. They now have more jeans that are in line with main stream premium denim in terms of look, fit and price (those pairs with an "x" in the model name) which works for me because I'm not a denim head and would rather pay $175 than $250 for jeans.

Neimans has a really nice pair on their website that is incorrectly priced at $105 vs. the $185 in the store, so I just ordered some of those in addition to picking up a raw pair at Barney's.

For those in Europe, I'd suggest Acne, particularly the "Mic" fit. In the "rigid" it's just a pair of well-fitting very dark jeans, perfect for anything.
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