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Denim 101 for Men's Clothing - Page 81

post #1201 of 1451
Looking for advice on jeans. I'm fairly skinny, waist is around 31'' and length is around 30''. I wear Levis 514 but am looking for something different. I want something that is fitted, but not tight. I don't like the jeans wrinkling/ creasing around the knees. I think what I'm looking for is straight-leg, but I'm not sure. I'm not looking for something too expensive... <$70. Any help in suggesting jeans is appreciated.
post #1202 of 1451
^ I've been eying the Tellason straight legs at Revolve-SF. They are a mere $190, reasonable for non-SF B&S jeans.
post #1203 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qudi View Post
I had the impression that APCs were designed to be a bit tight at first, so that they fit after stretching out? I could be wrong.



I think that's a great fit. What size are they and what's your waist, might I ask? :x

Thanks. New Standard's aren't exactly the most MC appropriate jeans when sized correctly. I'm a true 31" waist and these are 28's that have stretched to 31.5", so yeah they stretch a lot. I also have a pair of well worn in size 29's that fit a bit roomier but IMO New Standards should fit slim as they were designed.
post #1204 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by alliswell View Post
Cause old guys dress down too:





NYC Shirtmaker
NDG Khaki Jeans
MA Bootmaker

did I make that one?
i think we got right?
post #1205 of 1451


Let's pretend that MC has denim heads.

The other day I got fascinated by the three differing styles of rivets on my jeans. Small details matter.

On the left is 5 Easy Pieces, in the middle is Somet, and on the right is RRL. The rivet on the RRL is what in my minds eye I picture when I think of rivets on jeans. The Somet chose a flat rivet. On the 5ep the rivet is rounded and much darker, sleeker. Which is best? They are what they are.


Then there is the denim itself. The grain, for lack of a better word, of the denim is different for the three jeans. The denim grain on the RRL is horizontal, on the Somet is vertical, and there doesn't seem to be a grain on the 5ep. I like the horizontal grain the best. Last there is the handling of the yellow thread that runs down the outside leg seam. The RRL is a bit workman like, the 5ep longer and more precise, and the Somet ends in that wonderful yellow arrow head.

Objectively the Somet is probably the best jean in terms of denim and construction. The RRL is more workman-like, though it has lots of correct and interesting details. I haven't lived through enough evolution of the 5ep to know what will happen there. In terms of fit, the Somet has a half inch too low of rise for my taste, the 5ep is a half-inch too high. The 10.5 inches of the RRL is my sweet spot- your milage may vary.

Despite Somet being "the best" of the three, the RRL is probably my favorite. They just feel right when I wear them, and I like the horizontal denim. I just had them repaired, though, (by Blue Owl Workshop) and they can't really be worn in polite company. I have to go to other pairs for when I don't want to look like I just laid a stone walkway, which in fact is what I did in the RRLs last summer. Thus the Somet, and now the 5ep.
post #1206 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by onix View Post
No*. Chicago sucks when it comes to high end denim. I am going to NYC next month, so probably I can find something there.



*: Got a pair of APC NS, doesn't really like the cut, still wearable for a couple of occasions. So I keep them for now.

You should hit up Self Edge and Blue in Green when you're in New York. They should have at least some MC approved denim and definitely high end denim. Self Edge is a affiliate sponsor and you can find their affiliate thread here in the Street Wear side of the tracks.
post #1207 of 1451
Ok, I'm officially open for MC business.
post #1208 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post
Ok, I'm officially open for MC business.

Just asked my question in the other thread...
post #1209 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJ View Post
Whodini, what's your take on Nudies? I ask because I've seen it in stores to try on but not the stuff like KMW, Iron Heart, Momotaro, etc. RRL is another option here and I do like the pair I have but can be hard to find. I am considering getting a pair of APC though since $175 is worth a risk without trying on but not $350.
Nudies' focus is on fit, hence there are so many different models to choose from. They have used high-end denim on their Lab line but even then the prices were ridiculous for what you were getting. Their standard non-selvage stuff is ok but definitely nothing special; their standard narrow-loomed stuff is ok but personally doesn't justify the price considering competition at that level. I just can't recommend Nudie unless the buyer is looking for a specific denim cut or the pair can be had at a good discount.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJ View Post
Curious about this as well. Rivets seem self explanatory. They reinforce? What's the deal with the "coin pocket" and the belt loops? What am I looking for?
Levi's is famous for being the company to revolutionize the use of rivets on their jeans to reinforce pockets that were tearing away from stress. They patented the idea in the 1870s and have been characteristic of jeans since then. Originally, the rivets over the back pockets were exposed. I think it wasn't until the 1940s ('44?) that Levi's realized that people were tired of scratching up whatever they were sitting on and hid them with denim as well as made them flush. But this process requires extra time and equipment so companies just did away with the feature entirely. Nowadays, almost all of the respected denim brands include this feature; while it isn't a surefire way of knowing that the jeans are quality (the denim and the rest of the construction can be crap), it at least tells me that the person who made these jeans was thinking in the right direction. With the linked denim trousers, the coin pocket wasn't reinforced with rivets and the slit pocket would never be found on a pair of jeans (another trouser detail) although Wrangler does use a coin pocket that is similar in the sense that its placement is right at the waistband instead of an inch or so below it. The best belt loops are "tailored" or reinforced back inside the waistband and sometimes wrapped around rope for even more strength. To give you an idea (note that this belt loop is selvage. It's for flash, not function):
A reinforced belt loop tends to prevent this (total separation/failure of the belt loop):
Again, a detail like this isn't an absolute attribute of a quality garment, nor is it really a greatly-needed feature. It's a matter of aesthetic but to me it shows that the company dotted their i's and crossed their t's. I'd say about half of the jeans I wear today have this feature, so it's not really make-or-break for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJ View Post
Please go on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post
Yes, please tell. I like my APC NS's a lot: I really like the simple design. Fit is also nice, except for the waist which is about two centimeters too big, I think. Sizing down doesn't seem to be an option, because they're quite tight around the thighs already. Is Albam perhaps a good alternative?
Here is a thread for sub-$200 USD non-APC jeans. At the APC price range, you'll find a lot of companies Cone denim, especially companies who pride themselves on being made in the USA. Cone is a solid mill and while they produce all kinds of different selvage and non-selvage denim, these days they're almost like a baseline standard of quality when buying "denimhead" jeans. In their selvage program they have varying degrees of quality, from basic stuff up to more expensive White Oak and Black Seed varieties. To be frank, I generally find their denim to be very uniform, simple, and... boring. I say "generally" because they do occasionally make stuff that is unique, like denim that is greycast or coated so that with wear it eventually turns blue. Cone has its fans, people who specifically desire and appreciate that look that has been around for the past hundred years, but I think most denimheads would agree that the Japanese mills do far more interesting work. It's not that I wouldn't recommend them (I have repeatedly) or that I wouldn't purchase them (I have repeatedly), but it's more of a starter company when my closet is looking for the next crazy thing to fill the niche. At retail, I like Rogue Territory a lot. I'm biased because the guy behind it is a friend and practically a neighbor but he has some great fits and denim as well as other fabrics. He, too, started off with Cone but has since upgraded to Nihon. On sale, RRL is your best bet. Even at $230 retail, they're a fantastic pair of jeans that include every single detail I've mentioned about seeing in a quality pair. Like Rogue, you have to know your measurements prior to purchase because it might be hard if not impossible to try on a pair beforehand. I don't have experience with Albam but from pictures and the description they'll probably be ok for the price.
post #1210 of 1451
What's a good alternative to LVC 1947 with a lower rise? I especially like stovepipe straight legs (not tapered and not boot) and simple pockets.

Someone had mentioned Iron Heart 634s. Is there something lighter than 21oz?
post #1211 of 1451
hey just gotta chime in- good job, who! luv ya man!
post #1212 of 1451
Thanks a lot whodini. Just checked my jeans, they all have rivets and the tailored belt loops. Never noticed that before.
post #1213 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
What's a good alternative to LVC 1947 with a lower rise? I especially like stovepipe straight legs (not tapered and not boot) and simple pockets.

Someone had mentioned Iron Heart 634s. Is there something lighter than 21oz?
There are loads of great straight leg jeans, it just comes down to what your budget is and specifically what you're looking for in denim.

RRL Low Straight would probably work for you. If you're looking for something a little more relaxed, try the Strike Gold 1105. Both jeans around around the 10"+ mark on a tagged 31. Both jeans are also ~14oz and very comfortable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acidboy View Post
hey just gotta chime in- good job, who! luv ya man!
Lagi kitang iniisip...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJ View Post
Thanks a lot whodini. Just checked my jeans, they all have rivets and the tailored belt loops. Never noticed that before.
My pleasure. I personally think it's great to appreciate all the small details that go into a garment that you might miss at a glance.
post #1214 of 1451
Which brands cater to a big thigh but narrow calves? I like the leg opening to be about 8.5" but my 33" waist and big thighs make it hard to find. The best I've come up with so far is *horror* true religion. I hate the logo but the fit is correct.
post #1215 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post

Thanks. I'll check it out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post
[...] Cone denim [...]

To be frank, I generally find their denim to be very uniform, simple, and... boring. I say "generally" because they do occasionally make stuff that is unique, like denim that is greycast or coated so that with wear it eventually turns blue. Cone has its fans, people who specifically desire and appreciate that look that has been around for the past hundred years, but I think most denimheads would agree that the Japanese mills do far more interesting work. It's not that I wouldn't recommend them (I have repeatedly) or that I wouldn't purchase them (I have repeatedly), but it's more of a starter company when my closet is looking for the next crazy thing to fill the niche.

At retail, I like Rogue Territory a lot. I'm biased because the guy behind it is a friend and practically a neighbor but he has some great fits and denim as well as other fabrics. He, too, started off with Cone but has since upgraded to Nihon.

On sale, RRL is your best bet. Even at $230 retail, they're a fantastic pair of jeans that include every single detail I've mentioned about seeing in a quality pair. Like Rogue, you have to know your measurements prior to purchase because it might be hard if not impossible to try on a pair beforehand.

I don't have experience with Albam but from pictures and the description they'll probably be ok for the price.


And thanks again. I like boring, so that's not a problem. That's actually what I like about the APC design: no bells and whistles. Just jeans with (in my eyes) nice proportions: rise is not too high or low, back pockets have the right shape, size and are in the right position, simple but nice buttons. The only problem is the waist (and the button holes that are "falling apart").

Ideally, I would like a couple of winter weight jeans and a couple of summer weight jeans, both in raw and in a lighter, midlblue wash. And all in the same, simple configuration.
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