Originally Posted by Teger
To find your true waist measure your waist 2 inches below your belly button. It's better to size based off this measurement than based on another jean waist size, because waists stretch and many of these jeans are vanity sized (to some degree).
I think a 31 New Standard or Rescue could work for you though.
The closest to a classic fit (straight leg) would be the Rescue. The New Standard will be significantly slimmer below the knee, and have a lower rise.
I know you said you wanted APC, but are you open to other brands? Right now you have some very Japanese denim, and it's fun to get some American 'style' denim for a different look.
Edit: IMO, the best jeans for Sportcoat wearing are a very dark indigo straight leg. The heavily startched sheen of new APCs will make you look pretty strange if you pair it with anything dressy. I'd look in to KMW, Spurr or Rag & Bone.
This is actually incorrect. Your true waist is defined as the smallest part of your torso, and is typically above he navel. Excepting some higher rise jeans and some Japanese companies, no one cuts a jean that is "true to size" in the sense that the marked size is the circumference of the waist band of the jeans.
IMO, Kicking Mule's selvedge coin pocket detail, the very "brown" stitching used, and the large, low back pockets make it a very casual jean. Spurr can work, but the pronounced yellow stitching and super saturated, nearly purple, hue make it less versatile. I would recommend Rag&Bone for "dressy" denim.