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Denim 101 for Men's Clothing - Page 9

post #121 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I don't know what my "true waist" is, but I wear a 33 in Ironheart and a 32 in Sugarcane, though a 33 would have worked as well. I am thinking of New Standards, as I just want a basic jean with no particular personality. I guess I'd want a classic jean fit, like a 501, but maybe a little trimmer.
To find your true waist measure your waist 2 inches below your belly button. It's better to size based off this measurement than based on another jean waist size, because waists stretch and many of these jeans are vanity sized (to some degree). I think a 31 New Standard or Rescue could work for you though. The closest to a classic fit (straight leg) would be the Rescue. The New Standard will be significantly slimmer below the knee, and have a lower rise. I know you said you wanted APC, but are you open to other brands? Right now you have some very Japanese denim, and it's fun to get some American 'style' denim for a different look. Edit: IMO, the best jeans for Sportcoat wearing are a very dark indigo straight leg. The heavily startched sheen of new APCs will make you look pretty strange if you pair it with anything dressy. I'd look in to KMW, Spurr or Rag & Bone.
post #122 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
Really, I just want to be like Foo. I've never been able to wear jeans with a sport coat, and it makes me feel as inadequate as someone with a three dollar power cord.

Have you been reading my thread in the SW&D Forum? Apparently, I'm not one to emulate in wearing jeans with my sportcoat. I look like a 'dad' (but I'm not, so I'm not me, or some logic to that effect). Stupid kids.
post #123 of 1451
Ok, where do you get Samurais? I like the looks of those a lot, but it seems like if you buy them in the US they have their red tag, and archs removed (due to a Levis lawsuit). Where and how much?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TIEALIGN View Post
I started off with a pair of samurai so500xx for my first pair of quality denim after checking out the different denim pics posted on SUFU and couldn't be happier. I recently picked up a pair of samurai s5000vx 21oz that I really like and should last a lifetime. The best part is they stand on their own...





I recently saw a pair at TJ Maxx for $50 marked down from $215.
post #124 of 1451
Also, iammatt have you ever considered just LVCs? Pocketsquareguy frequently posts pictures of his LVC 501s with a sportcoat. And they are the most iGent of jeans...
post #125 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZRM View Post
Ok, where do you get Samurais? I like the looks of those a lot, but it seems like if you buy them in the US they have their red tag, and archs removed (due to a Levis lawsuit). Where and how much?

You have to get them proxied from Japan.
post #126 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post
To find your true waist measure your waist 2 inches below your belly button. It's better to size based off this measurement than based on another jean waist size, because waists stretch and many of these jeans are vanity sized (to some degree).

I think a 31 New Standard or Rescue could work for you though.

The closest to a classic fit (straight leg) would be the Rescue. The New Standard will be significantly slimmer below the knee, and have a lower rise.

I know you said you wanted APC, but are you open to other brands? Right now you have some very Japanese denim, and it's fun to get some American 'style' denim for a different look.

Edit: IMO, the best jeans for Sportcoat wearing are a very dark indigo straight leg. The heavily startched sheen of new APCs will make you look pretty strange if you pair it with anything dressy. I'd look in to KMW, Spurr or Rag & Bone.

This is actually incorrect. Your true waist is defined as the smallest part of your torso, and is typically above he navel. Excepting some higher rise jeans and some Japanese companies, no one cuts a jean that is "true to size" in the sense that the marked size is the circumference of the waist band of the jeans.

IMO, Kicking Mule's selvedge coin pocket detail, the very "brown" stitching used, and the large, low back pockets make it a very casual jean. Spurr can work, but the pronounced yellow stitching and super saturated, nearly purple, hue make it less versatile. I would recommend Rag&Bone for "dressy" denim.
post #127 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post
Also, iammatt have you ever considered just LVCs? Pocketsquareguy frequently posts pictures of his LVC 501s with a sportcoat. And they are the most iGent of jeans...

I think they're too proletarian for matt.

I want a pair though, in case anyone's making a christmas list. The best thing is, I could just tell me wife, "These? Just some levis..."
post #128 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
This is actually incorrect. Your true waist is defined as the smallest part of your torso, and is typically above he navel. Excepting some higher rise jeans and some Japanese companies, no one cuts a jean that is "true to size" in the sense that the marked size is the circumference of the waist band of the jeans.

IMO, Kicking Mule's selvedge coin pocket detail, the very "brown" stitching used, and the large, low back pockets make it a very casual jean. Spurr can work, but the pronounced yellow stitching and super saturated, nearly purple, hue make it less versatile. I would recommend Rag&Bone for "dressy" denim.

Yea I shouldn't have described that is the true waist - good catch.

IMO dressy jeans are hard to pick.. it has a lot to do with the cut, how they fit on you, and what you consider dressy. I'd say RRL but again, RRL has extremely gaudy back pocket designs (which you could remove).

I don't personally know a ton about the Japanese brands, so someone who does can probably chime in with a super-dark straight leg recommendation.
post #129 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
I think they're too proletarian for matt.

I want a pair though, in case anyone's making a christmas list. The best thing is, I could just tell me wife, "These? Just some levis..."

Bespoke reproduction 501s with gold foil arcuates, gold plated buttons and a custom back pocket tag that says "Rubinacci"?
post #130 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
This is actually incorrect. Your true waist is defined as the smallest part of your torso, and is typically above he navel. Excepting some higher rise jeans and some Japanese companies, no one cuts a jean that is "true to size" in the sense that the marked size is the circumference of the waist band of the jeans.

IMO, Kicking Mule's selvedge coin pocket detail, the very "brown" stitching used, and the large, low back pockets make it a very casual jean. Spurr can work, but the pronounced yellow stitching and super saturated, nearly purple, hue make it less versatile. I would recommend Rag&Bone for "dressy" denim.

See, this is the problem I always have. The jeans I like are never the right jeans for wearing with a sportcoat, and, to be honest, I am not even sure I like the look of jeans with a jacket. I just want to be able to have the option. Which model R&B would be best?

Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
I think they're too proletarian for matt.

I want a pair though, in case anyone's making a christmas list. The best thing is, I could just tell me wife, "These? Just some levis..."

I am very, very proletarian.
post #131 of 1451
Rag & Bone 11s or 15s, although 15s have pretty large back pockets. I think Rag & Bone also made a trouser cut jean (on the 18 cut?), but it's pretty slim.
post #132 of 1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZRM View Post
Ok, where do you get Samurais? I like the looks of those a lot, but it seems like if you buy them in the US they have their red tag, and archs removed (due to a Levis lawsuit). Where and how much?

I got them from www.e2nd.net. The price depends on which pair you want. They dont speak any English so if you dont speak Japanese you are gonna need to use the google translator and really basic language. They only took 3 days to get here once I finally figured out how to order them which was nice.
post #133 of 1451
In my opinion I believe that the best "dress jeans" have to match what you are wearing.
So it can vary from KMW, Spurr, Rag and Bone, Red ear, APC..... down the line

A nice one rinse could be the best answer just because it's easier to deal with a the darker color makes things more formal.


Matching jeans to a woven or knit and pairing it with a jacket is not rocket science.
9 out of 10 times common sense will lead you in the right direction.

Best,
mauro
post #134 of 1451
I am going to be reading this thread in more detail, but for now, I'll just say that I have a pair of Diesel jeans that I've had for years. I love them but recognize the boot cut is pretty dated on them now. Worse, they're starting to wear through in the crotch. I know they're not great but they're comfortable as hell and still serviceable.

So I went out and got a pair of 5ep LDBs. I paid a g**d***ed fortune for them. I wore them for a while and they were tight as hell in the crotch. They stretched out a good bit so they're no longer blatantly uncomfortable but the denim is still stiff and scratchy and they are not a pleasure to put on. I have been trying to break them in for months but I have zero of the cool fading that was so hyped. They do stack a bit at the knees but I am beginning to realize that stacking is retarded and will someday look as dated, if not more so, than the boot cut on the Diesels. They don't sit well on me and they are not flattering, though I was told they were one of the better jeans for a bigger guy like me. They look retarded at the crotch. Dated and everything, my Diesels just look better. The color is so dark they look odd with brown shoes, and I hate wearing black shoes, and I never wear sneakers. Making matters worse, I was tempted into buying them thru a special that was advertised on SF by the store (an SF affiliate who shall remain nameless) and that turned out to not apply to my 5eps, and I didn't even get the SF discount, which pissed me off mightily considering I drove an hour to get there. In short, I hate them, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw them on to try to continue breaking them in, once I put them on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take them right back off again.

As a result of my experience, I am calling bulls*** on the whole denim scene, which not only made me spend $300+ on jeans that are neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self-conscious about the jeans I like.
post #135 of 1451
FWIW, here's pictures of my Ironheart 634S, along with the Red Wings GT boots.


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