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Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!) - Page 18

post #256 of 346
I have to admit I was a bit pissed that both my linen shirts from CYC shrank so much and the shrinkage was not alloted for - my long sleeve shirt can't be worn without being rolled up the sleeves shrank so much and CYC was not willing to do anything for me (but I am overseas, maybe if I was in Sg they'd fix it). I will try them once more since I have a credit there and see what the result is since they have good fabric & button options, allow any design, and are priced reasonably IMO. If I make it Sg again I would probably try another option too.
post #257 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
I have to admit I was a bit pissed that both my linen shirts from CYC shrank so much and the shrinkage was not alloted for - my long sleeve shirt can't be worn without being rolled up the sleeves shrank so much and CYC was not willing to do anything for me (but I am overseas, maybe if I was in Sg they'd fix it). I will try them once more since I have a credit there and see what the result is since they have good fabric & button options, allow any design, and are priced reasonably IMO. If I make it Sg again I would probably try another option too.

This is the peril of linen I fear.
post #258 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_del View Post
^^CMT is you provide the cloth, they make it. Basically tailoring charges without cost of cloth.


Thanks. That's what I thought (cut make trim).

Anyone have any idea what a yard of fabric cost in:

- Loro Piana 120s
- Zegna Trofeo
- Pinnacle Super 120

Broad range will do..
post #259 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightbringer View Post
This is the peril of linen I fear.

Definitely - but I own a fair amount of linen and this is the first time I've had a garment shrink what I'd say is basically a full size!
post #260 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
Definitely - but I own a fair amount of linen and this is the first time I've had a garment shrink what I'd say is basically a full size!

! I will raise this with them the next time I return to Singapore, as I myself am considering a linen shirt or two. Quite a concern.
post #261 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
I wonder if that price is outdated, because the prices I was quoted for generic fabrics (not your Loro Piana or Cerruti) were above 1,000 SGD. For a Cerruti or Zegna it would be 2400 SGD or above. Should I have negotiated? That doesn't smack to me of a very straightforward outfit. Nothing against Iris, but the least a shop can do is be consistent. What's a "CMT"? Cut Make Trim?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gshen View Post
Figure out what CMT means and you will find the pricing is consistent.... don't jump to conclusions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
I was hoping you could help. No reason to be uptight. You know more about tailoring, super. Now tell me what it is. Basically a suit needs to be made. How much will it cost? Speak English.
You could always call them and ask... ...instead of being a smartass who has been on SF for more than a year and yet doesn't know what CMT stands for, and who hasn't worked out that the cost of a suit varies with the fabric used and so there is no single answer. And some apparently entry-level fabrics have prices are $$$ because the fabric agents in SG charge $$$. Nothing you, or Iris, can do about that - except go CMT, where the cost is constant. Which is precisely what gshen said.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
Thanks. That's what I thought (cut make trim). Anyone have any idea what a yard of fabric cost in: - Loro Piana 120s - Zegna Trofeo - Pinnacle Super 120 Broad range will do..
Your questions re: price per yard are poor ones at best because the 3 companies that manufacture the fabrics you mentioned have strong dealer networks, fabric charges vary from country to country, and very few agents are willing to sell to end consumers at anything resembling a sane price. You might run across lengths of fabric from these makers from time to time on eBay, or get them from jobbers. So to answer your question - $20-400/m. Broad enough? 8 items at once, each with different patterns? You are demanding and impatient, and that is not a good thing to be with bespoke. I predict disaster.
post #262 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
I wonder if that price is outdated, because the prices I was quoted for generic fabrics (not your Loro Piana or Cerruti) were above 1,000 SGD. For a Cerruti or Zegna it would be 2400 SGD or above. Should I have negotiated? That doesn't smack to me of a very straightforward outfit. Nothing against Iris, but the least a shop can do is be consistent.

What's a "CMT"? Cut Make Trim?

The other posters have answered your question re: CMT.

Re: prices including fabric. Fabric prices in Asia are really heavily marked-up compared to the UK or Europe, and most of this uplift comes from the cloth merchants, rather than from the tailors E.g. in the UK standard fabrics that I have used (e.g. Harrisons, Porter & Harding, etc.) typically run about £40-60 per meter (SGD80-120) at full retail, whereas for the same fabrics I think you're paying 2-3 times more in SIN. The prices that Iris were quoting are probably reflective of this heavy supply-end mark-up, rather than them trying to fleece you. I think your suggestion that they're not a "straightforward outfit" - to those of use who use them - strikes me as being unreasonable. In point of fact, I have thought that Iris have been very consistent with pricing for CMT and also for prices with cloth included - when I have compared notes with other clients, they have consistently paid the same as I (or, within the same range). Also I have never tried to negotiate price with them; I suppose this is very un-Singaporean of me, but I have trusted in their professionalism as a tailoring firm.

Just a word of friendly advice: Try tempering you comments a little more before making them. The gaffs with Anthony Chan (no TAN) and "sartorial detailing", combined with accusations against Iris for lack of professionalism are not likely to endear you to those who might be able to actually give you good advice, if you ask nicely. In fairness, you're coming across as a bit of an arrogant n00b... Perhaps this is not the impression you trying to give, but this is the one you're making, at least to some of us.
post #263 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
You could always call them and ask...

...instead of being a smartass who has been on SF for more than a year and yet doesn't know what CMT stands for, and who hasn't worked out that the cost of a suit varies with the fabric used and so there is no single answer.

And some apparently entry-level fabrics have prices are $$$ because the fabric agents in SG charge $$$. Nothing you, or Iris, can do about that - except go CMT, where the cost is constant.

Which is precisely what gshen said.

Your questions re: price per yard are poor ones at best because the 3 companies that manufacture the fabrics you mentioned have strong dealer networks, fabric charges vary from country to country, and very few agents are willing to sell to end consumers at anything resembling a sane price. You might run across lengths of fabric from these makers from time to time on eBay, or get them from jobbers.

So to answer your question - $20-400/m. Broad enough?

8 items at once, each with different patterns? You are demanding and impatient, and that is not a good thing to be with bespoke. I predict disaster.

Whatever he said!
post #264 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post
Whatever he said!
There is also the cliff notes version -

LURK MOAR N00B!



Anyway, saw your jacket being cut about a week and so ago when I was there. Bold, but nice fabric. All the best with it.
post #265 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post
Just a word of friendly advice...
A gaffe I think you meant (a gaff is a pole), but I appreciate your taking the time to share your thoughts. What's wrong with the phrase "sartorial detailing"? Unless I write a paragraph explaining tailoring minutiae, it's unacceptable? I suppose arrogance is a matter of predilection. A person telling me to go "find out about CMT" is not only more arrogant, his mien does not sound terribly helpful for a forum of this nature either. Anthony Chan, yep. Mode Et Creation or something. I was correct in the address/direction. I doubt I'm going back to either him or Iris anyway. Whenever I get to travel to Tokyo, which in my profession thankfully happens often, I'll just stick with the tried and tested (Azabu). There's much delightful distraction on this forum with people who frequently know more than me. I am sure you feel the same and will continue to derive both knowledge and enjoyment. Have fun..
post #266 of 346
^^troll
post #267 of 346
Always nice to see the brothas banding together
post #268 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by dappledown View Post
^^troll



Certainly more meaningful than your contribution to this thread.

Anyway, enjoy, gentlemen of the tropics..
post #269 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
Anyway, saw your jacket being cut about a week and so ago when I was there. Bold, but nice fabric. All the best with it.
Thanks! I was looking for something a bit more vibrant... Subtlety is for suiting. Better to be bold with odd jackets.
post #270 of 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post

Are their known shirt fabric makers as there are in the suit world? (Cerruti, Zegna, Loro Piana..)

Before you point out another person's spelling mistake (gaff/gaffe), you would be much better employed in checking and correcting your own. Twat.
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