or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!) - Page 17

post #241 of 351
All jokes aside about satorial detailing--gshen, that pic was hilarious--yes I do know pict stiching but some do better than others. Azabu Tailors in Tokyo have made some of my suits that I still get comments on after 9 years or so of wear and tear (Zegna workhorse fabric doesn't hurt). I guess you got good work from Iris, which is great.

Now, for others:

Where can I get SG$ 50 shirts with all the custom detailing -- me want!

CYC's shirt from Singapore are known to shrink and in general not last too long. This is from people I know well, so wary of using CYC. Sorry.

How about this "PL" in Hong Kong, who're they?
post #242 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
CYC's shirt from Singapore are known to shrink and in general not last too long. This is from people I know well, so wary of using CYC. Sorry.

Shrinkage is mostly influenced by a customer's fabric choice. I don't think it's legitimate to blame the tailor for that.
post #243 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightbringer View Post
Shrinkage is mostly influenced by a customer's fabric choice. I don't think it's legitimate to blame the tailor for that.


Fair enough. But if I choose an "Egyptian Cotton", I kinda expect a high quality Egyptian Cotton. The fabric may have been subpar but it was the tailor's decision to get me a certain kind of Egyptian Cotton. Or am I missing something?

Are their known shirt fabric makers as there are in the suit world? (Cerruti, Zegna, Loro Piana..)
post #244 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
Fair enough. But if I choose an "Egyptian Cotton", I kinda expect a high quality Egyptian Cotton. The fabric may have been subpar but it was the tailor's decision to get me a certain kind of Egyptian Cotton. Or am I missing something?

Are their known shirt fabric makers as there are in the suit world? (Cerruti, Zegna, Loro Piana..)

Yes, such as Thomas Mason.

I think part of the problem is this: some fabrics will intrinsically shrink, such as linen. And if you pick a fabric, well, you get exactly what you pick. So if you pick a low-quality egyptian cotton, you're going to get a low-quality egyptian cotton. Often a tailor can advise you on the fabrics, but unless communication is clear, I can foresee you running into issues here.
post #245 of 351
pkiula - PL is Peter Lee in HKG. The 'best known' shirtmaker worldwide is probably Charvet, or Turnbull & Asser. Anna Matuozzo is relatively known on SF because patronised her.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightbringer View Post
Shrinkage is mostly influenced by a customer's fabric choice. I don't think it's legitimate to blame the tailor for that.
Not completely - there are things a tailor can do to preshrink the fabric before cutting. If the fabric in question is part of the tailor's stock, I would expect he/she to do just that. And if fabric in question is part of the tailor's stock, I would if the tailor chose to stock a crappy fabric or worse, recommended it to you.
post #246 of 351
Apropos, thanks for this very informative post! I'll be sure to ask about preshinking in my next shirt tailoring!

Apart from Thomas Mason are there other known shirt makers. TM seems to be a bit on the pricey side -- I doubt SG$ 50 shirts are made of TM cloth.
post #247 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
All jokes aside about satorial detailing--gshen, that pic was hilarious--yes I do know pict stiching but some do better than others. Azabu Tailors in Tokyo have made some of my suits that I still get comments on after 9 years or so of wear and tear (Zegna workhorse fabric doesn't hurt). I guess you got good work from Iris, which is great.

Now, for others:

Where can I get SG$ 50 shirts with all the custom detailing -- me want!

CYC's shirt from Singapore are known to shrink and in general not last too long. This is from people I know well, so wary of using CYC. Sorry.

How about this "PL" in Hong Kong, who're they?

I've used my CYC shirt multiple times and it's fine. I'm using a slightly more pricey (i'm sure they have house fabrics) Thomas Mason cloth though.

That said- it's not the most cost effective tailor in Singapore and there have been some complaints about it. But I'd say it's significantly better than many other tailors in Singapore.

PL is Peter Lee of Lee Baron (http://leebaron.ca/) who runs a shop in Kowloon. He's regarded as very value for money. He got my shirt fit wrong (that said- I didn't have a fitting as I was only there for a while but he's promised to rectify it) but I have a suit for him that I love and will be using him again when I'm up there.
post #248 of 351
Thomas Mason makes shirting fabric, not shirts. The companies I mentioned earlier are shirtmakers, not shirting fabric makers. For shirting fabrics aside from TM - Grandi/Rubinelli, Acorn, Alumo, Carlo Riva are good bets. If shrinking is really a concern ask if the fabric has been preshrunk at the factory, or 'Sanforised'.
post #249 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiula View Post
Apropos, thanks for this very informative post! I'll be sure to ask about preshinking in my next shirt tailoring!

Apart from Thomas Mason are there other known shirt makers. TM seems to be a bit on the pricey side -- I doubt SG$ 50 shirts are made of TM cloth.

The $50 shirts aren't TM. They're house fabric but ok quality (the one I paid $70 more at Anthony's was worst) and they come with mother of pearl buttons. He also does CMT so if you bring TM he'll work with you.
post #250 of 351
Replied to Lightbringer.
post #251 of 351
Probably a stupid question but here goes: What's the pricing for Iris Tailor? I'm going to be in SG in Feb, looking to have a blazer, 3pc SBPL, a 2pc DB, trousers and a DB overcoat made. What's the starting price with handwork? and what's the CMT price with as much handwork as possible? Oh and how easy to work with are they? Can I use all the 'sartorial-vocab' I've picked up here or do I need to have sketches of lapel shapes and vents to get what I'm after?
post #252 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by gshen View Post
...I have asked the tailor and the going price for CMT is S$785 (~USD515). Apparently I am told the husband and wife team do alterations for many boutiques like Zegna etc, so I was tempted to give them a go.. Glad I did!
I wonder if that price is outdated, because the prices I was quoted for generic fabrics (not your Loro Piana or Cerruti) were above 1,000 SGD. For a Cerruti or Zegna it would be 2400 SGD or above. Should I have negotiated? That doesn't smack to me of a very straightforward outfit. Nothing against Iris, but the least a shop can do is be consistent. What's a "CMT"? Cut Make Trim?
post #253 of 351
Thread Starter 
Figure out what CMT means and you will find the pricing is consistent.... don't jump to conclusions.
post #254 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by gshen View Post
Figure out what CMT means and you will find the pricing is consistent.... don't jump to conclusions.


I was hoping you could help. No reason to be uptight. You know more about tailoring, super. Now tell me what it is.

Basically a suit needs to be made. How much will it cost? Speak English.
post #255 of 351
^^CMT is you provide the cloth, they make it. Basically tailoring charges without cost of cloth.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!)