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Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!) - Page 15

post #211 of 351
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
This is one of those very rare occasions where I will be categorical in saying NO.



Thanks for clearing that up, J. Would be very interested in your thoughts about the new coat!
post #212 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by gshen View Post


Thanks for clearing that up, J. Would be very interested in your thoughts about the new coat!

Well, all things considered, i.e. the weight of the cloth and canvas and the degree of shaping, it seems that you have somebody pretty talented. I think that the waist suppression is overdone and the sleeve is not quite as full as I would like ( won't comment about what's going on with the under sleeve as that may be camera-pose). Your shoulder is poking through the top of the sleeve and the scye is quite vertical, which then suddenly pulls underneath the lat which I think is what is bothering people. If you were to widen the shoulder just a touch you could angle the scye such as it would run more smoothly into the shape of the side seam; I would let out CB, reduce the shaping at the ss a bit and reduce some of the skirt flare. You'll still have a shapely garment which might look a bit more natural. I'm convinced your tailor would be able to execute this.
post #213 of 351
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
Well, all things considered, i.e. the weight of the cloth and canvas and the degree of shaping, it seems that you have somebody pretty talented. I think that the waist suppression is overdone and the sleeve is not quite as full as I would like ( won't comment about what's going on with the under sleeve as that may be camera-pose). Your shoulder is poking through the top of the sleeve and the scye is quite vertical, which then suddenly pulls underneath the lat which I think is what is bothering people. If you were to widen the shoulder just a touch you could angle the scye such as it would run more smoothly into the shape of the side seam; I would let out CB, reduce the shaping at the ss a bit and reduce some of the skirt flare. You'll still have a shapely garment which might look a bit more natural. I'm convinced your tailor would be able to execute this.

Thank you! The super clear descriptions should make it easy for me to describe and for them to follow.

I'm seeing them to fit another jacket next weekend, so this is going to come in very handy. Will report back with pics!
post #214 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
One thing I am not sure I fully understand is how the jacket appears to be moderately suppressed from the front, but much more severely suppressed from the back.

I find that quite common. Most of my coats look like that.
post #215 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by gshen View Post
Is the A&S technique 'correct' though?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
This is one of those very rare occasions where I will be categorical in saying NO.

Just to be clear, you're talking about this right? With results visible in whnay's sc that mmkn posted and Manton's A&S?
post #216 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I find that quite common. Most of my coats look like that.

+1
post #217 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Sorry, it looks like a woman's jacket from the back. Given the hips, the waist suppression is a bit much and a bit high. - B
I agree. It's also unbalanced; the back is also too tight and is causing the front to crumple from the extra fabric. Maybe the tailor didn't account for gshen's posture, or maybe gshen has a different posture in photos from his normal posture. Either way, I don't like it much and it doesn't look any better than higher quality MTM sportcoats. And please get rid of the jeans, pardner.
post #218 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by why View Post
I agree. It's also unbalanced; the back is also too tight and is causing the front to crumple from the extra fabric. Maybe the tailor didn't account for gshen's posture, or maybe gshen has a different posture in photos from his normal posture.

Either way, I don't like it much and it doesn't look any better than higher quality MTM sportcoats.

And please get rid of the jeans, pardner.

The jeans are fine and I have no reason to agree on your comments on the coat.
post #219 of 351
that tie is identical to my old school tie. wack
post #220 of 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by why View Post
I agree. It's also unbalanced; the back is also too tight and is causing the front to crumple from the extra fabric. Maybe the tailor didn't account for gshen's posture, or maybe gshen has a different posture in photos from his normal posture.

Either way, I don't like it much and it doesn't look any better than higher quality MTM sportcoats.

And please get rid of the jeans, pardner.

I'm with GBR, jefferyd & vox on on this one... I like G.'s stuff; albeit I do think the suppression could be less pronounced, but that's often a personal choice of the bespeaker...
post #221 of 351
This is a huge thread with tons of good discussions, I still have to go through most of them. Thanks a lot gshen and others for the reviews. I'm going to Singapore around Christmas time and eager to commission some suits, trousers, and shirts. Hope they can finish suits within a week or so. When it comes to shirts, who do you think are among the top quality makers? Would Iris do a great job for shirts? Since 2006, practically all my shirts come from WW Chan in Shanghai - pretty high quality with good value, prices are only slightly higher than Jantzen's and better quality - but going to China might be less often nowadays. Also, in case they don't carry enough heavyweight shirting, are there any recommended fabric shops offering good value for the money? Many thanks in advance.
post #222 of 351
One more thing, do you know if Iris can do spalla camicia sleevehead for the suit jacket? I just like to get a subtle, not pronounced, rippling effect. http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/211...cia56gk9vs.jpg
post #223 of 351
The quality of work from Iris is not as good as WW Chan, a better establishment to compare it to would be Peter Lee. Before getting a spalla camicia from someone who does not do it as a dafault option, think hard about it.
post #224 of 351
Thanks apropos.

Will just pipe in here. Iris Tailor seems to be getting a lot of bandwidth here. Encouraged by this I recently went there for some alterations to older suits that just need to be nipped in at the waist.

The work, frankly, is very ordinary.

The sign of a good tailor is that when the waist is nipped in a suit, the vents below it are also correspondingly adjusted to be straightened out. Otherwise, it will flare out like a frock at the bottom, which is exactly what happens in the visuals of the original poster here.

There are several very cost-effective tailors, such as Anthony Chan in Far East Square (next to Hilton) on the 4th floor. His suits have been magnificent, he comes highly recommended on many online forums, and he fully canvasses them + gives them nice details.

To original poster: you seem to be happy with some very ordinary suits with zero sartorial detailing.
post #225 of 351
Thread Starter 
WTF is sartorial detailing?

This?
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