I will call it the "what a great deal, and I am happy with the Chan suit, BUT..." Â There always seems to be a but. Â The delivery time, a missed detail here or there, something.
True enough. Â Most of those detailing problems seem to occur on their US tour purchases, since you aren't getting multiple fittings unless you ask for them, which will substantially increase the wait. Â But if you search the archives you can also find complaints about major label MTM suits when the sales person takes bad measurements. Delivery time is kind of a here nor there issue for me. Â If you order from a Savile Row tailor who does US trips, you're probably talking about six months or more from measurement to delivery.
Its also been said that you have to give every minute detail to Chan or else he uses his default cheapest alternative.
Who said that? Â "Cheapest alternative?" Â WW Chan has a house default style, but the defaults have nothing to do with cheapness--the defaults are in the cut. Â If you're referring to the recent horn vs plastic buttons thread, every one of my WW Chan suits has come with horn buttons without my asking for them. Â There are some HK or Bangkok tailors that will go with a cheap construction method unless asked (e.g., they'll fuse the coat unless you ask for, and pay extra for, canvas construction) but Chan isn't one of them. Nor do you have to specify every minute detail unless you are one of the near-OCD types who wants to butt into the process at every step (this is not meant as a pejorative, since I tend to be this way). Â A friend of mine has ordered a couple of WW Chan suits and all he did was walk in wearing his favorite suit and told them was "I like the way this suit looks and feels. Â Please make one like it that fits right." Â They did a fine job for him.
Id be wary of directing a younger person to Chan because of this. Â I have been wearing suits for 10 years now, and I am starting to get to the point where I have a good sense of all the tiny details I like. As a graduating college student, I would have been clueless.
Agreed, but this applies to any tailor that does not have a strong house style to steer you towards. Â At risk of inciting yet another anti-Flusser flame war, I think he is dead on when he writes that an HK tailor may do good work from a craftsmanship perspective, but can lack the stylistic history and context to steer you right.
And lastly, I have pet peeve with people who direct other people to not care about labels. Â If you truly dont care about labels, it works both ways. Â You shouldnt care if its a Chan OR a zegna. Â NOT buying a zegna because of the label is just as label conscious as buying a zegan because of the label. Â Wear what you like regardless of the label.
Agreed. Â If you find a suit that you like, and wears well, you shouldn't care what label is inside.