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Best Speaker Cables?

post #1 of 278
Thread Starter 
I was thinking about picking up a few meters of this -

http://www.noiseaddicts.com/2008/11/...st-audiophile/
post #2 of 278
Home depot lamp cord.
post #3 of 278
just buy 12 gauge from any store. it's all the same. if anyone tells you otherwise, they are retarded
post #4 of 278
Depends on the length of the run and the lowest impedance of your speakers. I'm all for using the minimum required, simply because it'll be smaller and thus easier to hide. The chart on this page by McIntosh's former head of acoustic research is good: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm Obviously, it's all wire. The brand name, source, etc., does not matter.
post #5 of 278
It isn't even water cooled.
post #6 of 278
Monster.

Especially if you buy the ones with plug-in ends. Stripping wire and rethreading it time after time gets pretty tedious.
post #7 of 278
What's your budget for the wire? Do you need to biwire?

I like Kimber and Cardas the best. Kimber 8TC is a really good budget cable.
post #8 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve B. View Post
Monster. Especially if you buy the ones with plug-in ends. Stripping wire and rethreading it time after time gets pretty tedious.
Everybody sells banana plugs. Monster tends to be rather overpriced. I also hold the firm in special disdain because Noel Lee started the whole mythology about audio wire. (That said, for a while they marketed top-quality subwoofers under the M-Design name, with beautiful cabinets and about the best drive units one can buy off-the-shelf.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artisan Fan View Post
What's your budget for the wire? Do you need to biwire?
Nobody "needs to," or should, buywire. (Buywiring is different from biamping, assuming one is also using active crossovers a la Andre's Linkwitz Orions, or line-level passive crossovers. With standard passive crossovers, biamping doesn't make a difference either, and is better spelled buyamping.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artisan Fan View Post
I like Kimber and Cardas the best. Kimber 8TC is a really good budget cable.
Budget? Are you insane? Only a deaf idiot would pay that much for wire! (And if you think it makes the slightest bit of difference, do a blind test with me with a significant wager attached. Your Maggies or my Tannoys should both be of suitable resolution to prove that wires don't do shit.) Speaker wire shouldn't cost more than a buck a foot, with high quality bananas or spades adding maybe $10-15 to that for a pair of speaker wires, tops. For those too lazy to crimp twirl a screw-driver on the set screw of a banana, Blue Jeans Cable offers custom lengths of high quality wire (at worst, better than what one may find from Monster, Kimber, Cardas, Tara Labs, Audioquest, etc.) at reasonable prices. However, it seems to me that it takes less time and effort to terminate wires than it does to measure, so I just buy speaker wire by the spool and banana plugs from a local source or Parts Express.
post #9 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by kronik View Post
I was thinking about picking up a few meters of this -

http://www.noiseaddicts.com/2008/11/...st-audiophile/

Make sure you get the gold-plated Styrofoam cups, too. Those cables and its discerning owners deserve no less.

--Andre
post #10 of 278
Thread Starter 
I will probably go with Blue Jean Cables but.. I didn't actually need cables.
post #11 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by B1FF View Post
It isn't even water cooled.

It isn't even Deep Cryogenically Treated to align the copper crystals!
post #12 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezzatura2010 View Post
..... high quality bananas or spades adding maybe $10-15 to that for a pair of speaker wires, .....[/url]

Serious question: do you even need to terminate it with bananas or spades? If your speaker terminals have the 'hole' under the threads, you can just put the stripped bare wire in. By removing the spade/banana terminal, you just remove another link in the chain from amp to speaker no?

Unless of course you switch speakers or cables on a regular basis.
post #13 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by kronik View Post
I will probably go with Blue Jean Cables but.. I didn't actually need cables.

I thought this belonged in Dumb Threads but wasn't quite sure.
post #14 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by kronik View Post
I will probably go with Blue Jean Cables but.. I didn't actually need cables.
Blue Jeans sells the Canare 4S11 which I've been using for a while. In general, if you get 12 gauge cable, you should be pretty set for almost any situation for runs up to 50 feet. 12 AWG is the point where the series resistance of the cable is low enough to be unaffected by most speakers' input impedance, but isn't big enough yet for its own self-inductance to start causing audible loss in the highest octave. Fancy cables like Kimber 8TC use braiding to lower this point further without raising inductance if you need even lower series resistance, but at the cost of higher capacitance, which can destabilize some amps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post
Serious question: do you even need to terminate it with bananas or spades?
This is not a normal situation, but I need to plug two pairs of cables into one amplifier output (I need to drive two woofers in parallel), and the hole isn't big enough to accommodate a pair of 11 AWG cable, so I use stacking dual-bananas from Radio Shack. Also, I don't like the messiness of the strands sticking out, oxidizing, and also possibly breaking off, so if I do bare, I like to tin the ends first, but then it's hard to tighten down the screw because solder is pretty hard, and the contact area isn't that big. Kimber makes a cleverly-designed spade called the Postmaster: imagine the tines of two spades in parallel, one on top of each other, but with a squishy material in between. The squishy material pushes the spades apart as you squish them in a binding post, so you can tighten the post just using your fingers, and have a pretty secure connection. It works very well. Here's a picture: --Andre
post #15 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

..... Also, I don't like the messiness of the strands sticking out, oxidizing, and also possibly breaking off, so if I do bare, I like to tin the ends first, but then it's hard to tighten down the screw because solder is pretty hard, and the contact area isn't that big.
Yes I forgot to mention that the ends should be finished in solder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
Kimber makes a cleverly-designed spade called the Postmaster: imagine the tines of two spades in parallel, one on top of each other, but with a squishy material in between. The squishy material pushes the spades apart as you squish them in a binding post, so you can tighten the post just using your fingers, and have a pretty secure connection. It works very well.

Here's a picture:



--Andre
I've seen something similar from WBT, I think it is their 'Nextgen' spades.
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