or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Archives › Buying and Selling (Archive) › Cool Shoes, Paraphernalia & Desiderata
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Cool Shoes, Paraphernalia & Desiderata - Page 395  

post #5911 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
These are really nice in my opinion, made on a great last, and could be at about the EG level. I'd be interested in some background on Poulsen Skone; RJman or Medwards, can you provide this? The listing indicates that New & Lingwood acquired PS and now sell PS shoes as one of their high-end lines. They don't appear, however, on the N&L website as part of their luxury shoe collection (many of which appear to be Grenson Masterpieces). If interested, it would be important to get to the bottom of the size information. They could actually be 10.5E US, but some actual measurements, along with a brief discussion with one of the two Sausages, should get most of what's needed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Poulsen-Skone-Co...QQcmdZViewItem

The medallion and placement on those shoes is horrible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Homme View Post
I think i'm going to buy these, to be my first pair of brown shoes. Do they look like scotch grain leather to you ? I can't really tell.

They look plastic in person.
post #5912 of 14986
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
These are really nice in my opinion, made on a great last, and could be at about the EG level. I'd be interested in some background on Poulsen Skone; RJman or Medwards, can you provide this? The listing indicates that New & Lingwood acquired PS and now sell PS shoes as one of their high-end lines. They don't appear, however, on the N&L website as part of their luxury shoe collection (many of which appear to be Grenson Masterpieces). If interested, it would be important to get to the bottom of the size information. They could actually be 10.5E US, but some actual measurements, along with a brief discussion with one of the two Sausages, should get most of what's needed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Poulsen-Skone-Co...QQcmdZViewItem

Not at EG level.

Poulsen Skone was a bespoke shoemaker bought by New & Lingwood in the 1970s. Under their name was the N&L bespoke operation. In the 1980s George Cleverley, who had previously been at Tuczek, Maxwells and had his own operation, worked at Poulsen Skone as a sort of consultant (according to Flusser). George Glasgow and John Carnera also worked there at that time. In 1991, New & Lingwood was acquired by a South African entrepreneur named Anthony Spitz, whose cost-cutting measures allegedly led the bespoke shoemakers at N&L/Poulsen Skone to leave. This is when the current incarnation of the shoemaking house of Cleverley was formed. N&L allegedly still have a bespoke shoemaking operation, but I haven't heard anything good about it.

Anyway, AT ONE TIME Poulsen Skone RTW was made by Edward Green, until maybe the mid-1990s. It was sold in the New & Lingwood shops. AT SOME POINT N&L replaced EG with Grenson, made to Masterpiece levels, as the makers of Poulsen Skone. THEN, in 2003, Dunhill started selling shoes branded Poulsen Skone in Dunhill's New York and London stores. The Dunhill Poulsen Skone shoes were either Alfred Sargent Premier Exclusives or C&J Benchgrades for the first season or two. At the time that Dunhill began selling shoes branded Poulsen Skone, New & Lingwood rebranded all of its RTW Poulsen Skone shoes "St James Shoes". Those "St James Shoes" remained Grenson Masterpieces. I believe that after a few years Dunhill switched to Grenson (Masterpieces?) for its Poulsen Skones, but I frankly don't remember clearly anymore. I think I've seen Italian-made Poulsen Skone-branded shoes at Dunhill in London this summer. New & Lingwood appears to have renamed their St James Shoes now: they appear now simply to be called "Luxury Shoes" and now include some Italian-made models.

So no, these shoes are not made to EG levels. They're decent shoes, but I'd say they're closer to the RJ RTW shoes made by C&J.

There's one dodgy German seller on ebay who is selling some Dunhill Poulsen Skone RTW shoes and insists they're EG-made because EG used to make Poulsen Skone. He is wrong.
post #5913 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
The medallion and placement on those shoes is horrible.
Interesting you'd say that, Ed. I quite like the chandelier-like medallion, and think that its placement allows the chiseled toe form to show to greater advantage. Different strokes....
post #5914 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Not at EG level.

Poulsen Skone was a bespoke shoemaker bought by New & Lingwood in the 1970s. Under their name was the N&L bespoke operation. In the 1980s George Cleverley, who had previously been at Tuczek, Maxwells and had his own operation, worked at Poulsen Skone as a sort of consultant (according to Flusser). George Glasgow and John Carnera also worked there at that time. In 1991, New & Lingwood was acquired by a South African entrepreneur named Anthony Spitz, whose cost-cutting measures allegedly led the bespoke shoemakers at N&L/Poulsen Skone to leave. This is when the current incarnation of the shoemaking house of Cleverley was formed. N&L allegedly still have a bespoke shoemaking operation, but I haven't heard anything good about it.

Anyway, AT ONE TIME Poulsen Skone RTW was made by Edward Green, until maybe the mid-1990s. It was sold in the New & Lingwood shops. AT SOME POINT N&L replaced EG with Grenson, made to Masterpiece levels, as the makers of Poulsen Skone. THEN, in 2003, Dunhill started selling shoes branded Poulsen Skone in Dunhill's New York and London stores. The Dunhill Poulsen Skone shoes were either Alfred Sargent Premier Exclusives or C&J Benchgrades for the first season or two. At the time that Dunhill began selling shoes branded Poulsen Skone, New & Lingwood rebranded all of its RTW Poulsen Skone shoes "St James Shoes". Those "St James Shoes" remained Grenson Masterpieces. I believe that after a few years Dunhill switched to Grenson (Masterpieces?) for its Poulsen Skones, but I frankly don't remember clearly anymore. I think I've seen Italian-made Poulsen Skone-branded shoes at Dunhill in London this summer. New & Lingwood appears to have renamed their St James Shoes now: they appear now simply to be called "Luxury Shoes" and now include some Italian-made models.

So no, these shoes are not made to EG levels. They're decent shoes, but I'd say they're closer to the RJ RTW shoes made by C&J.

There's one dodgy German seller on ebay who is selling some Dunhill Poulsen Skone RTW shoes and insists they're EG-made because EG used to make Poulsen Skone. He is wrong.
Great background, RJman. The bags do have "Dunhill" on them, so we might assume that these were made by either C&J, Sargent, or Grenson. With the closed-channel soles, these look better than C&J Main Collection (evidently their current term for "benchgrade"), but I think that the Sargent Premier Exclusives have this feature, and, of course, Grenson Masterpiece-level shoes do too. I found it interesting that the Redgrifts gave a 475 GBP retail price for these shoes. Usually, their stated retail prices (wrt to C&J and Lobb, for example) are quite close to the mark. That 475 GBP was one thing that suggested near-EG quality with these shoes.
post #5915 of 14986
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Interesting you'd say that, Ed. I quite like the chandelier-like medallion, and think that its placement allows the chiseled toe form to show to greater advantage. Different strokes....

The price the seller is asking for them is about 100 to 150 pounds less than retail. 220 pounds is on the high side (for ebay) for what they are, frankly.

Price should not be any indication as to quality. Its only indication is as to what the retailer wants people to compare them with. That's not the same thing.

C&J makes shoes for a whole lot of designers and shops to all kinds of specifications. For instance, the Peal & Co. shoe models made by C&J appear to be benchgrade (or main line, or whatever you want to call it) level uppers on channelled shoes. Channeled soles do not mean that a C&J-made shoe sold under someone else's label is otherwise made to handgrade spec.
post #5916 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Great background, RJman. The bags do have "Dunhill" on them, so we might assume that these were made by either C&J, Sargent, or Grenson. With the closed-channel soles, these look better than C&J Main Collection (evidently their current term for "benchgrade"), but I think that the Sargent Premier Exclusives have this feature, and, of course, Grenson Masterpiece-level shoes do too. I found it interesting that the Redgrifts gave a 475 GBP retail price for these shoes. Usually, their stated retail prices (wrt to C&J and Lobb, for example) are quite close to the mark. That 475 GBP was one thing that suggested near-EG quality with these shoes.

I think they're Grensons.
post #5917 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Interesting you'd say that, Ed. I quite like the chandelier-like medallion, and think that its placement allows the chiseled toe form to show to greater advantage. Different strokes....


I think with the medallion where it is creases are inevitable. I don't think a medallion should have creases, toe box is the best place for the fancy stuff.
post #5918 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctive View Post
Hi, I am the seller of these shoes. They are virtually new. One thing to mention would be that I believe they are made of Nappa Calf which is very soft. I honestly don't think they would antique well, although Tony may have a better answer for you. I think they are quite nice as they are.


Well, then I may keep them as they are and.....hummm, which one should i sacrifice from my closet? Thanks for the shoes Distinctive, I appreciate it.

Regards.
post #5919 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKDKid View Post
I think they're Grensons.
Good eye, TKDKid! They do look very similar. And this would be consistent with RJman's discussion above.
post #5920 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omegablogger View Post
I think with the medallion where it is creases are inevitable. I don't think a medallion should have creases, toe box is the best place for the fancy stuff.
Another way to look at it is that the medallion might help to mitigate the appearance of creases (which, of course, will appear with or without a medallion)!
post #5921 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
The price the seller is asking for them is about 100 to 150 pounds less than retail. 220 pounds is on the high side (for ebay) for what they are, frankly.
I think you're right. The price on the N&L site for their "Luxury Shoes" (presumably Grenson Masterpieces or of comparable quality) is 395 GBP, so, at this point in the bidding, they're 175 GBP below that retail figure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Price should not be any indication as to quality. Its only indication is as to what the retailer wants people to compare them with. That's not the same thing.
Of course (the latter assertion). But it's imprecise to suggest that price has nothing to do with quality (if that's what you are, in fact, suggesting; it's hard to tell). It does; it's just that the relationship between the two things isn't perfect. I've noticed over the years that some forumers like to suggest that the relationship is actually zero, but that is just not true. In fact, that correlation is quite substantial, just not perfect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
C&J makes shoes for a whole lot of designers and shops to all kinds of specifications. For instance, the Peal & Co. shoe models made by C&J appear to be benchgrade (or main line, or whatever you want to call it) level uppers on channelled shoes. Channeled soles do not mean that a C&J-made shoe sold under someone else's label is otherwise made to handgrade spec.
That's true, but this wasn't suggested--just they are very likely of higher quality than C&J Main Collection (not what I want to call it, what C&J call it!).
post #5922 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Of course (the latter assertion). But it's imprecise to suggest that price has nothing to do with quality (if that's what you are, in fact, suggesting; it's hard to tell). It does; it's just that the relationship between the two things isn't perfect. I've noticed over the years that some forumers like to suggest that the relationship is actually zero, but that is just not true. In fact, that correlation is quite substantial, just not perfect.

The Thom Browne shoes -- $1,200 for rebadged Tricker's -- defy this correlation entirely.
post #5923 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
The Thom Browne shoes -- $1,200 for rebadged Tricker's -- defy this correlation entirely.
No single instance ever defies (or invalidates) an empirical correlation. What you have mentioned here is just one example of why the correlation is something on the order of .6 or .7, rather than 1.0!
post #5924 of 14986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
The Thom Browne shoes -- $1,200 for rebadged Tricker's -- defy this correlation entirely.

Ted Baker sell rebadged Tricker's for $850.
post #5925 of 14986
I'm a little confused over what happened in this auction as I was outbid on these lobbs by a non-registered user. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170139604718 how can a non-registered user bid at all?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Buying and Selling (Archive)
This thread is locked  
Styleforum › Forums › Archives › Buying and Selling (Archive) › Cool Shoes, Paraphernalia & Desiderata