Originally Posted by dkzzzz
I love the advise given here sometimes. It is accurate to a complete opposite.
Let me address each of your points:
1. I believe the shoe to be Goodyear welted because I'm pretty sure it is the Bishop model, discussed on this forum earlier by Diorshoe (where he indicated that it is G-welted) and appearing in the following link:http://www.haroldsintheheights.com/s...derbishop.html
2. Unlikely Blake-stitched: most blake-stitched shoes (of which I have many) have quite thin soles. Despite your comments, those just don't look Blake-stitched to me. But note that I said that I thought it unlikely that they were Blake-stitched and didn't state this as a fact.
3. As for the Santoni vs A-E comparisons:
(a) You state a flat "not true" to my assertion that "the quality of these shoes will be considerably higher than that of any A-Es." Well, I think that this statement is absolutely true, and I really don't know anyone who would disagree with this--except, apparently, you. Some would argue that A-Es represent better "value for money" than these Santonis, and they may well be right about that, but I can't imagine anyone actually asserting that the quality of A-Es is equivalent to that of Santoni Fatte a Manos. I should perhaps add that I have both A-E and Santoni shoes and have observed this difference first-hand.
(b) You also state flatly "not true" to my assertion that the FAMs would have far more handwork than would A-Es. I agree that terms like Fatte a Mano can be thrown around without much justification, but I still strongly believe that the shoemaking process underlying a pair of Santoni FAMs would include much more hands-on work and attention from the makers than would a pair of A-Es. As just one small example, it's hard to see how closed-channel soles could be made without a worker actually doing much of this. With the Goodyear-stitching of a pair of A-Es, the welt-outsole stitching (done aloft) is just one simple operation that could be done completely by machine. Another place where you'd see a difference in the amount of worker hand involvement would be in the leather finishing. With A-E, the finish is, I'm sure, pretty much entirely done by machines, whereas on the Santoni FAMs, it's clear that a lot of hand work is done. To see this, take a look at the antiqued brown version of the Bishop in the link above. That kind of finish does require considerable worker attention.
(c) You again state flatly "not true" to my point about better-quality leather in the uppers of the Santonis. Do you know this to be untrue? Again, I think that there's little doubt about this. It strikes me as very unlikely that A-E can use leather costing as much as what goes into Santoni FAMs and still manage to see them sold at discount for $129. Assuming that some profit is being made by A-E even at these levels, what must the cost of the leather have been, given the higher costs of US labor? Further support for this comes from a recent post on either SF or AAAC about how A-E is now going to pressed particulate leather for certain sole structures.
BTW, Dah328, thank you for your comment. I don't know about myself, but A Harris certainly has huge credibility in these things, and I think that he'd agree with much of what I've noted above.