Wisk (or detergent without enzymes) proved most effective and color fast across the spectrum. Tide was second, but was strongly not color safe on blues and grays. Woolite (regular and dark) and vinegar proved entirely ineffective. These were concentrated, long soaks -- two caps per ~3 gallons of water and soaking for 48 hours. None of the pre-soak additives -- Zout, Resolve, or Lanolin hand cleaner -- increased stain removal with any amount of reliability. Post-soak rinse with cool water and gentle agitation, followed by slow drying were key to avoid damage to the wool.
1oftheCoolKids simply uses Tide in a gentle cycle. I tried that but got no results; only the soak seemed to help mitigate the waistband issues.
Be careful of rust to zippers and clasps.
And apparently there's a stain removal threak, but nobody linked me to it.
Every time I wear this jacket I think of Sully, who sent it simply because he knew it would fit. I hope I've made it up to him since, but I doubt it. It's Huntsman, BTW.