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The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Page 4558

post #68356 of 115841
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroFan View Post

Quoting is DOA for me for some reason, but sincerely, thanks gents...I honestly had fun with the post and didn't anticipate it would be so well received.  I'm really glad you guys get as much of a kick out of this stuff as I do.  I'll certainly cross-post, thanks.
Now all you need is an antique wardrobe owned by an RAF fighter pilot made from alternating panels of birdseye and tiger maple harvested from the swamps of Dunkirk or whatever...to store all these museum pieces! I often see military (or firefighter parade gear) and am tempted because of all the cool swag & the fact they give you names of firemen and servicemen (and women) to research -- and they have real stories--but don't I go down that path because once I start, my family will get pissed at me for co-opting space in their bedrooms for storage, ha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eazye View Post

Here's my thrift fit for tonight. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I wore this SC and shirt combo a few week ago, and someone mentioned I should swap out my light colered tie for a navy, so that's what I did here. I also added my new Donnanna trousers and a pair of unknown English bench made bal's.
SC, Hickey Freeman from ATLjon
BB light blue shirt, BB navy tie
AppleMark
AppleMark
AppleMark
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroFan View Post

I like the colors and patterns, and love the socks as a part of the ensemble in particular.  With how slim the opening of the pants are, I feel like you need a little bit more break.  You might be able to get away with it better if they weren't so slim in the leg, but as is, they look a bit highwater-y.

E, I like the coat you're wearing. H-F has some great patterns/colors. They have an outlet too up the street from Orvis, but I can only ever afford to touch ties, pocket squares and an occasional shirt. Cashmere everywhere, there! $$$$$ though even half off. Luckily we find H-F at thrft stores everywhere because it's built so well and stands the test of time. Agree with Andro on the pants.

As for the tweed Barbour coats (I have 2, both of the forest green variety)...thanks. I originally bought them last summer to flip, they were samples. Just happened to fit me. No takers here. It took them a while to grow on my and a few months later (I bought them July 4 weekend, they are very warm jackets) I finally sprang to get the sleeves right-lengthened and have worn them steadily this fall/winter.

Since I haven't done it in a while and I got my new Orvis tablecloths and am feeling a tad spring-y today...church thrift fit:

AppleMark


100% cashmere no-name jacket (Alexander Julian) from brianpore
Bostonian crown windsor pebblegrain shoes
noname (Fratelli? Gianelli?) super 140s cashmere blend pantaloons
orvis shirt
panta from spoo tie

Tell me your thoughts on pocket square, couldn't decide which to wear (alternate choice: White linen) is it too much or just right? Thax
Edited by LooknGr8 - 4/7/13 at 6:02am
post #68357 of 115841
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroFan View Post

This was also one of the things I picked up yesterday.  Warning: a VERY LONG clothing construction/history sidebar follows...though if you're at all interested in the coolness side of the tailored clothes we deal with, I think it's worth it...

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

So, I've seen this jacket before on previous visits to one of my shops, and was always really temped to pick it up.  But perpetually in a rush, I didn't really look at the detailing on it until yesterday's visit.  I paid a bit more attention to it and many of the detailing features stuck out to me.  Hand finished lapels, functional cuffs with (what I think is) hand sewn buttonholes, well done internal canvassing structure, etc.  When I saw it in the store, I thought the pick stitching was machine done (which, btw, literally goes ALL along the jacket...lapels, sleeves, shoulders, back, bottom... the entire jacket), but from what I'm seeing on tuttofattoamano and after looking really closely at the stitch work, it really might be completely hand done, which is utterly insane to me considering the extent (more on that later).  So, I finally caved and bought it despite the stain (I now have a really amazing dry cleaner who I'm sure can get the stain out anyway), then got home and did some research.  I'm quite glad I did. First, pictures.

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, some research led me, first, to A. Carceni's wiki page, which is quite glowing, and details the house's storied history, dating back to World War I era Italy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caraceni).  It did mention that the name and rights were bought at some point along the way, and that the "revised" Carceni wasn't nearly as impressive as the original counterpart.  Some additional digging led me to this (http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/noteworthy-a-caraceni/), which explains in  ancestry tree-like detail, the history of the Carceni tailoring family, which I found absolutely fascinating.  The long and the short of it is, after the original Carceni died off, his sons opened up two different fashion houses under the name, both fantastic in their own right.  Later, the sons of each (both?? Hard to tell) sons, continued the legacy, but at some point the quality of the name was...diluted.  Thankfully, it appears that the SC I own was made at one of the original houses, at the Fatebenefratelli address (good brothers??? unless my Italian really is that rusty), and is the good stuff.  Even more research led me, finally, to the aforementioned posting by the one and only tuttofattoamano blog (he's a SFer...if you haven't check him out, he does amazing work: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/), where he had nothing but glowing things to say about the construction of the piece, even calling the pick stitching I talked about earlier "some of the best finishing work I've seen", to which I'm completely inclined to agree (http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/05/caraceni.html).  I was glad to see that many of my thrifting-honed intuitions about the quality of pieces were pretty spot on. 

 

 

 

 

Now that I've got you deep-link divers here, I figured I'd show off a few other pieces from my "Museum of Awesome Ass Old Tailored Pieces".  Recently through thrifting, I've come to realize/acknowledge that I'm a bit of a history nerd, and almost equally an appreciator of artwork-quality handiwork.  So, along my thrifting adventures, I've come across some pieces that I had no intention of ever selling or wearing (there is one exception I'll note later), that I just had to get because of the overwhelming cool factor of them.  I think I've posted one or two of them before, but I figured I'd give them all the full treatment here in one post.

 

 

The first, and probably the most valuable (though I have absolutely zero intention of selling it) is really cool.  It's a blazer from the United States Military Academy (aka, West Point) graduating class of 1950.  Pics first:

 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These kinds of things show up really infrequently on ebay, with wildly ranging prices.  That said, because of the rarity, I saw similarly dated blazers go for up to a few hundred bucks, and a cardigan sweater (granted, it was awesome as fuck) go for over a grand.  Some digging led me to this landing page for the 1950 class, which is absolutely fascinating in its own right (http://www.usma1950.com/).  The records and details that they keep on this stuff really shows how important the "West Point experience" was to many of these guys - especially since these guys entered right after World War II, when the country was in a very uncertain place.  I'm not sure if you can tell from the pictures, but the emblem is raised from the surface by at least 1/4", and is probably physically heavy when removed.  It's constructed of these amazing almost metallic-like "braids" of heavy thread or something resembling thread - it's really cool in person.  It's a gorgeous grey flannel jacket, and aside from the breast emblem is something straight out of an episode of Mad Men.  Super cool piece. 

 

 

This was my first really exciting vintage find, and is near and dear to my heart for more than a few reasons, including the fact that 1) it was also my Savile Row find, 2) it's motherfucking awesome, 3) it fits me (kinda), 4) it's the only Savile Row piece I've found from a now completely defunct maker, and 5) its provenance.  I won't go into detail on the last (I really do like to preserve the anonymity of the previous owners, so you'll note that I usually black out the names if there's anything at all identifying on the jackets), but this guy could easily be a true life stand in for those "The Most Interesting Man in the World" commercials.  Pics first:

 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The jacket is from the now defunct Sandon & Co., formerly of Savile Row.  Sandon's gained its noteriety mostly as a house specializing in riding gear for both men and women, and they were well regarded for what they did with this (their pieces still demand an insane asking price on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sandon-Co-Scarlet-Red-Hunt-Coat-Small-/350275045911 and http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sandon-Co-Scarlet-Red-Tails-Fox-Hunt-Coat-Small-/350544578528?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519e15c7e0...before you scold me for posting a current asking/non-completed listing, realize I did so only because there are, literally, no completed listings on ebay at the moment, since they just don't show up very often.  My research led me to find out that this is actually a men's riding jacket - that's why the ticket pocket is so much higher than the lower pocket - in order to make it accessible while actually mounted on a horse, and also why it has side vents.  As with the other pieces, the hand finishing is nothing short of amazing, what you'd expect from a SR piece.  Hand sewn buttonholes, lapels, hand attached collar, working cuffs (with something I've never seen before: a "faux" top button which looks to have made the sleeve assembly even more complicated - and thus, more expensive - than normal surgeon cuffs), side vents, a soft shoulder, full canvassing...all the good stuff.  Even though it's dated to 1964, this thing is eminently wearable in the pattern and styling.  It fits me - I'm going to fix a small separation on the collar attachment and get it (VERY CAREFULLY) dry cleaned, then rock this thing proudly.  

 

 

 

Next was also a bit of a heartbreak.  I searched everywhere for the pants for this beast hoping to find them, but to no avail.  It would have made a killer 3-piece suit.  The jacket and vest are pinstripe, so, sacrelig as separates according to the mainstream crowd, but I honestly wouldn't hesitate to rock this bold beast somehow.  Pics below.

 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is by "Cooling, Lawrence, and Wells," later known as "Wells & Sons," and later known as "Wells Tailors and Shirtmakers."  They were located at 47 Maddox Street in London, through sometime in the 1970s.  Make no mistake, these guys were no Savile Row or even off-Row tailors in terms of prominence, but this is just an overall cool piece from an interesting era in London.  It's a great heavyweight flannel type fabric with an underlying herringbone pattern and a cool yellow pinstripe.  Yeah, it has wings where the lapels should be, but it also has lots of awesome detailing features we normally associate with high quality: functional cuffs, hand sewn lapels, side vents, and a really gorgeous lining on both the jacket and the vest have an awesome lining.

 

 

 

This next one is pretty similar to the one above, but is more likely a sportcoat (though, who knows...the 70s were a crazy time, man).  Pics below.

 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one is awesome in its own right: it's a sicknasty pattern and fabric texture, is obviously incredibly well made, and (aside from the on the wide side lapels), the styling features are close enough to timeless that I will have no hesitation wearing it (which I will, since it fits me).  It is from Lesley & Roberts, who has an interesting and storied history.  From my research (unintentionally aided greatly by ATLJon - thanks!), it looks like they've bounced around quite a bit, from Hannover Street, to the famed Cork Street, to finally being bought up by another Savile Row house (Welsh & Jeffries).  But they definitely have the quality of all of the heavy hitters - hand sewn lapels, buttonholes, hand attached collar, and side vents to boot.  It's cool to see how high even the standard of craftsmanship was just thirty years ago, that could result in such a well made piece from a non-SR (but clearly, still crazy well regarded in its own right) tailoring house. 

 

 

 

And last - but certainly not least - is the oldest piece I've kept in my collection.  It's totally radtastic, but a heartbreaker because I couldn't find the pants (despite scouring and watching the store that they came out of like a hawk in the following weeks).  Pics first.

 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
This is an absolutely awesome tuxedo jacket from Austin Reed, back when they actually made their pieces on Regent Street, London, from 1940.  The first thing that strikes you about this (well, me at least), is how absolutely awesome it looks despite defying the 1 button shawl lapel/peak lapel convention.  I've seen dudes almost almost get shanked for suggesting that anything other than a 1 button shawl lapel or peak lapel tuxedo is acceptable.  I know a Barathea 2/1 DB like this one is considered far more acceptable by the Brits, but SF-think ingrained in me that this jacket was basically the sign of Satan's second coming, so I was shocked when I realized how absolutely aesthetically pleasing this jacket looks.  The second thing that strikes you when you see (well, feel) this thing is the sheer weight of the behemoth.  It is a tank, and I'm fairly certain the lapels are kevlar, not grosgrain.  The heavy Barathea twill fabric is weighty, but totally awesome in how it looks when worn.  It's a commanding piece overall, and just feels like elegance.  Just like the others, all of the handiwork is top notch...it was assembled in 1940 on (what was then) the absolute upper echelon of fashion districts, and so all the handwork isn't surprising (hand attached collar, working cuffs, hand stitched pockets, the works). As a sidenote, these sleeve buttons were the most difficult I've ever encountered to unbutton, and I attribute that to the fact that there was serious attention paid to them and in threading the string around the sleeve buttons in a way that would ensure their integrity for....oh...70 years or so..of use.  

 

 

In case it's not evident, none of this is for sale, and even if this post (which took me embarassingly long to write) gets zero views or responses, it was worthwhile since sharing this all was was for my own edification.  Even though the thrifting pursuit is about money WAYYYY more often that it should or would be in an ideal world, I really do love this hobby, for things like this.  These are awesome relics of history, and each is an encapsulation of a different time.  Many of these pieces will never be replicated in the form I have them, with their masters having died off never to be replaced, or their tailoring philosophies falling by the wayside as new methods and forms come into favor.  I think it's cool stuff, and I'll continue to collect really awesome pieces like this for my own enjoyment, and really really encourage everyone else to do so.

 

/sidebar-rant

 

Bravo! I've just finished reading it on the vintage thread. What a well written piece. How do you store these works for art? How long did it take you to write this?

post #68358 of 115841

Latest Thrift/Clearance Finds

Nothing too Styleforum-ish, but a useful little haul. Waiting on a custom Ratio Clothing 1/8th Navy Gingham Cutaway! tongue.gif 

 

{Polo Ralph Lauren Ivy Cap - $20.00 @ Niagara Fashion Outlet PRL Shop}

 

{Navy Lacoste Short Sleeve Polo w/ Smoked MoP Buttons Size 5 - $6.99 @ Burlington Value Village}

 

{Scotch & Soda Grey Dunagrees? 33x34 (available) - $6.99 @ Hamilton Mountain Talize}

 

{Dockers D1 Montana Khaki Chino 34x30 (Wears like Flood Pants, which I like, also very soft.) - $5.99 @ Talize Hamilton Mountain}


Edited by arnathor - 4/7/13 at 7:09am
post #68359 of 115841

Well, yes, mostly -- we did permanently lose a knowledgeable contributing member -- but at least we're back on track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

Andro: I HEREBY DECLARE THIS THREAD .... REDEEMED.

 

Turned 27 last month bigstar[1].gif

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Lol, was trolling / deliberately misleading.  It's not a high school prom, it's a law school prom (because they have those, apparently).

Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelntrigger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

 Might be going to a prom soon...

WTF?! Wait a minute...How old are you, again? puzzled.gif

peepwall[1].gif

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

lurker[1].gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianpore View Post

Wait till I get mine back from the tailor in a few days nest.gif  SO EXCITED

 

So, I've decided I will come up with a sub-thread, I think.  I'll post a link later, going out for the day.  Nice T&A, btw!! Um, that sounded wrong. [shrug]

post #68360 of 115841
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelntrigger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

 Might be going to a prom soon...

WTF?! Wait a minute...How old are you, again? puzzled.gif

peepwall[1].gif

As long as shes 18 and your not 2x her age I thought it was SF approved decisions.gif

post #68361 of 115841
^^^ Lookngr8, I like the shoulders on the SC :thumbsup:

The colors on the SC and pants are a little to close. I like a little more contrast if I wear a SC pants combo. PS looks ok.
post #68362 of 115841

Any regulars want these (around a 42 waist) - cost + shipping ($10 total).  Not sure how to list them as I dont know the brand (close to Incotex). Decent quality though! Denim like but in a dress pants cut.

 

Measure 21.5" waist by 29.5" inseam

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #68363 of 115841
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

Well, yes, mostly -- we did permanently lose a knowledgeable contributing member -- but at least we're back on track.
I've been on record many times saying diversity is the best aspect of our ecosystem. I don't know for sure who, if anyone, is gone, and whether it's for good or not. But I do agree being back on track is good.
post #68364 of 115841
MartiniGirl is welcome in this thread - welcome to post fitpics, finds, advice, banter, etc. and I won't complain. The only thing I took issue with was that some members here couldn't let her post without creepily flirting with her (and the whole "lol dm7 you must be gay" thing, but I'm willing to hope that was a one-time thing we can put behind us) so as long as everybody here can do their part to not creepily flirt with MartiniGirl, I'd like her to come back. She did know quite a bit.
post #68365 of 115841
Quote:
Originally Posted by caseyfud View Post

MartiniGirl is welcome in this thread - welcome to post fitpics, finds, advice, banter, etc. and I won't complain. The only thing I took issue with was that some members here couldn't let her post without creepily flirting with her (and the whole "lol dm7 you must be gay" thing, but I'm willing to hope that was a one-time thing we can put behind us) so as long as everybody here can do their part to not creepily flirt with MartiniGirl, I'd like her to come back. She did know quite a bit.

Yeah, I wouldn't know nearly as much about Gianni Campagna (which has proven quite useful) if it hasn't been for her.
post #68366 of 115841
And we'd all know a lot less about biology and nuclear physics if it wasn't for those race-cleansing Nazi scientists we hid after the war. Yay, diversity!
post #68367 of 115841
Quote:
Originally Posted by noob View Post

And we'd all know a lot less about biology and nuclear physics if it wasn't for those race-cleansing Nazi scientists we hid after the war. Yay, diversity!

Lol yes on the other hand it is not that big a deal if there is one less person in the thread who knows about different Zegna tie lines, especially if they insist on being a giant dick. Time will tell!
post #68368 of 115841
@eazye that triumph is badass!


lifestyle thrift fit



Gant Rugger (thrifted)
Haversack (rakuten @ 1/8th of retail)
RRL (thrifted)
clarks (thrifted)
blinding paleness (free)
post #68369 of 115841
Whoah!, needs better pics of everything.
post #68370 of 115841
First off, anyone know what's up with iphoto uploads to photobucket? I bulk export photos from iphoto and they come out in different sizes. censored.gif

Anyway, I'm only getting out once a week which is depressing but it does make me more focused when I go into a thrift store. Finds from this weekend, done amongst errands and grocery shopping.

This is the most interesting thing I've ever found. At first I thought it was a floppy cowboy hat that needed steaming and blocking but upon examining the label I think I've got a hassidic hat. It seems to have travelled from Italy, to Israel and then (maybe) on to Montreal, which has probably the largest Jewish community in Canada. What makes this interesting is that my city has a tiny Jewish community - and an even smaller percentage of it would be comprised of hasidim.

Oh, and I found this article from 2 years ago about hipsters adopting these hats. I'm not sure if that fad ever got legs under it.
http://nymag.com/thecut/2011/05/black_hats_traditionally_worn.html








Wool, Made In England, driving cap. I understand that skinheads go for these.





Burberry Prorsum Trench/Mac with nova check




Gloverall for fall.




Minty vintage tartan






Bally loafers




Two RGs, one with lip stick on the collar. Maybe this was a product of house cleaning after a divorce!
It was cheap enough that I'm gambling that the treatment takes it out.




No name Made it Italy PS. Looks burgundy but it really a nice shade of purple




Boss cotton jacket for the bay

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