Originally Posted by G. Landi
I know there have been a lot of questions on Boglioli jackets in the past too, I've had a lot of these jackets over the past 10 years so I think I can help.
Their trademark line, Coat, started in the 1990’s as neo-Italian take on Neapolitan tailoring; they made the jacket slimmer due to fabric and construction and used a special “tinto in capo” (garment dyeing) process to give the jacket a vintage look…basically responding to trends seen in jeans and shirts at this time. Worn in. Distressed. Coat is their mainstay, and in many ways the zenith of their production and obsession with materials, especially cotton, and recently more with linen and silk.
Due to the success of this, Boglioli started to experiment (pre-wash, dyeing, etc) with other fabrics like (combed) cashmere and wool…and the K Jacket was born (2003 I believe). For the most part, I think the construction of these two jackets are pretty similar, although almost always I like the touch of a K Jacket more…it drapes better, it possesses that tactile sensation that you can’t quite put into words but you understand…I love them. And I hear Boglioli doesn’t make a big distinction between the two but I think there is.
Boglioli also has a standard label for some of their partnerships (with Guabella, tailors, department stores other than Barneys’ who they make a Coat and K Jacket for) which is all over the place. Whereas most Coat and K Jacket lines have very little or no shoulder padding (“senza spallina”), spring/summer editions usually have no canvassing (but still wonderful structure I might add), these often have more padding in shoulder, often don’t have working buttons, and are often fully canvassed. I’ve even seen one that was fused, which I think was a bad move, to put their name on the jacket. I also saw a cardigan-blazer in textured cotton that was absolutely amazing. But in nonrefundable situation I would not take the risk.
There are a few other lines, Dover and Wight which came in late 2000’s I..the wight concept was for Japan and was based on a total unconstructed form. The Dover was a bit more constructed and formal or elegantly styled…but sometimes in Jersey. So still no real structure to the line. Both these lines are discontinued and but have become Dover 2G line (which I have not seen).
Basically, I think anything outside of Coat and K Jacket can be a little experimental- can be amazing but often a bit off. A lot of people dismiss Boglioli as a trend or casual jacket, but if you look at the construction, attention to detail…it’s really a kind of revolution in jacket making. I travel a lot and my Isaia, Zegna crossover, Luciano Barbera’s don’t hold up as well as this. There is a real beauty and practicality to a prewashed distressed material...