Maybe the previous owner was arrested by police and the cuffs were on too tight which resulted in chaffing off skin on wrists?
I was just giving a friend some advice on this. (Of course from the few photos I post on this thread it may seem like I don't do much, but I do photography on the side.) Anyway, that is mostly true, yes. It depends on what you are looking to do, which will ultimately determine which element is the limiting factor in your setup. For most people obviously skill, experience, and knowledge of light is the limiting factor, but we're talking about physical equipment.
The first item to consider is full-frame versus smaller sensors. For wide-angle stuff and for low-light, full-frame is a huge advantage, but pricey. I advise most people starting out to focus on a cheaper body (which will definitely not be full-frame) and get good glass, which I usually take to mean glass that will work on a 35mm sensor. (Brand loyalty and differentiation is mostly relevant in the 35mm versus smaller sensor criterion.) Prime lenses are a better value than zoom. If you don't intend to go to 35mm sensors then you can go slightly cheaper for good quality without making the lens the limiting factor. As for cameras, there are couple of basics that it should have, but aside from that it depends what you'd like to use it for. RAW mode should definitely be there (almost always is for DSLR). Low noise is a good criterion, I would say at the expense of pixel count (noise is often the limiting factor on usable pixels). I don't do burst shooting, but if so, then that is probably the second criterion. Much of the expense at higher-end models comes from durable casing, fancy (and fast) metering, and basically in-camera computation. Durability should not be an issue for most applications, and in-camera computation should be mostly superfluous for someone with or looking to develop skill unless super-fast (i.e. photojournalism and sports / dance) metering and focusing is desired.
If you want to use flash attached to the camera, then having good metering through the lens can make a huge difference, but in most cases that can be overcome with practice and know-how. So here's my priority list for bodies, which may vary from yours:
1) sensor size
3) pixel count
4) focusing capability
5) metering capability
For lenses, it's
0) image size (35mm, APS, or other)
1) image quality (in order: distortion, aberration, vignetting, color, resolution)
2) largest focal number
3) precision manual focusing ability (controllable focus in fine gradation; a tight focus ring)
4) zoom ability
But yes, thrifting lenses (as opposed to bodies) is also good because it's easier to tell if the thing works (aside from metering and focus for computerized setups). With cameras, it can be harder to tell if things are wrong with the machine if you don't have a quick way to test it. You can inspect a lens visually and have a good sense of its shape.
I've been wondering whether it's morally wrong to do this for a while. I picked up a bespoke suit with a dry cleaning tag in from just the week before and it had a name & mobile number on. Since this same female donor also donated another similar suit (mashed condition) i'm interested to know why/is anything else going, although i feel like a mobile number is pretty intrusive! Is there a Barney Stinson Bro Thrift Code outlining such boundaries?
Did you get them at an outlet store? Cuz $40 for thrift prices...Yikes...
yeah they were outlet at barneys but I would have even paid that much at a thrift store they are so nice except the selvege line is really thin it is weird I like the higher rise though
Oh, $40 for new LVC is a great price! Good job! There's no Barney's outlet ova herrrrrrre. =(
How about being the most Euro young Republican?