That's really cool, I've never seen a vintage Talbott seven-fold before. I've only seen the unlined, untipped kind.
The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Page 3818
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Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Picked up 2 Oxxford suits today. (Both available)
Jacket sz. 40S trousers 35 X 28 flat front, no cuffs
Jacket sz. 39S trousers 35 X 28 flat front, no cuffs
PM sent. Fingers crossed!
So I said "what the hell" and found out the email address of the guy who donated those dozen Ascot Chang shirts that fit me perfectly. Two days ago sent him a friendly (but carefully written email) saying that if had more shirts, jackets, or shirts that he was planning to donate, please let me know and I'd buy them from him. I told my wife what I'd done and she was Not Too Pleased. (Made a note of that for the future.) This morning I got a short but friendly reply back from the guy: "Hi - yes - funny email. I will keep your information and let you know if anything comes up. Happy Holidays."
Nataku, thanks for the encouragement. I didn't score an armful of Isaias but nothing embarrassing happened, either. I did get some satisfaction telling my wife, "Hey, I got a nice reply from that guy who donated the shirts", and hearing her shout "NO WAY!"
Awesome! Yeah, I've never had anyone be a prick to me. Most they did is just not respond. You might have gotten a good contact now.
Yeah, same one. The manager who was doing this did get fired thought but got replaced by some troll who seems to really be into designer clothing. We were better off with the old one.
+1. I've been telling him that for the past couple years now.
Today was completely
First T&A tailored piece. Recent and made by Chester Barrie. D/B, 6/2 button. Side vented. Navy with red and silver pinstripes. No pants. Turned the store upside down looking for them. Nothing. The guy donated some other stuff too. Two decent pairs of Bergdorf Goodman house label trousers and a recent Bullock & Jones blue/white stripe linen shirt.
Mint Oxxford gun club check sportcoat. 23 years old and showed it. Fish mouth lapels, low gorge and super low button stance. No vent.
Nudie coated gray Average Joe jeans. Looked like someone attempted to feed them through a wood chipper.
Stained (Click to show)
Also grabbed a nice cocktail mixer for $2.
But today was mostly about the ties. Right to left (sorry, SF flipped the pic) is Mariano Rubinacci (2x, first time in wild for me), Robert Talbott, Fendi, PRL, Zegna. All available (although I do really like the first MR and the PRL).
Close-ups (Click to show)
I know it's discussed all the time, but could someone familiar with it either PM or link me "The Method"? If I can get the stain outta this Pink, hey free money. I also confirmed to myself today that J Crew and LL Bean make perfectly respectable ties. Didn't buy any, but between a GW and a SA saw enough very nice, feels good in your hand ties between the two, could've started someone a respectable work lineup for practically nothing.
That is quite true. I used to be into photography before twin boys entered my life a year and a half ago. Don't have any time for that hobby anymore and ended up selling it all. Had a Nikon D3, Nikon 400mm 2.8 (that lens was a beast) among other great lenses. I sold all of that expensive gear as i didn't have time for it anymore.
I have since gotten really lazy with my photography and mostly just use a Sony Rx100 and also have a Olympus E-M5 m4/3 which is a great camera and very lightweight.
Anyway for those of you looking to get great used lenses, fredmiranda is a great site to buy and sell used camera gear. glass holds its value very well and is usually a smart buy. Camera bodies depreciate like crazy though.
Here are a couple of my shots:
I came into possession of a pair of Collaterals Shop Innovative pearl collar studs. I looked them up and saw these little stone magnets are $125 a set. However, my uncle received them as a little gift when he bought his BMW 3 series Well he gave them to me and I think they are a bit much for me. I wanna get my trade experience up in the forum so I will trade them dirt cheap, no cash maybe a nice winter hat or size medium shirt?
first pair is a clear MOP inlay, Second pair is black crossed blue :)
I was just giving a friend some advice on this. (Of course from the few photos I post on this thread it may seem like I don't do much, but I do photography on the side.) Anyway, that is mostly true, yes. It depends on what you are looking to do, which will ultimately determine which element is the limiting factor in your setup. For most people obviously skill, experience, and knowledge of light is the limiting factor, but we're talking about physical equipment.
The first item to consider is full-frame versus smaller sensors. For wide-angle stuff and for low-light, full-frame is a huge advantage, but pricey. I advise most people starting out to focus on a cheaper body (which will definitely not be full-frame) and get good glass, which I usually take to mean glass that will work on a 35mm sensor. (Brand loyalty and differentiation is mostly relevant in the 35mm versus smaller sensor criterion.) Prime lenses are a better value than zoom. If you don't intend to go to 35mm sensors then you can go slightly cheaper for good quality without making the lens the limiting factor. As for cameras, there are couple of basics that it should have, but aside from that it depends what you'd like to use it for. RAW mode should definitely be there (almost always is for DSLR). Low noise is a good criterion, I would say at the expense of pixel count (noise is often the limiting factor on usable pixels). I don't do burst shooting, but if so, then that is probably the second criterion. Much of the expense at higher-end models comes from durable casing, fancy (and fast) metering, and basically in-camera computation. Durability should not be an issue for most applications, and in-camera computation should be mostly superfluous for someone with or looking to develop skill unless super-fast (i.e. photojournalism and sports / dance) metering and focusing is desired.
If you want to use flash attached to the camera, then having good metering through the lens can make a huge difference, but in most cases that can be overcome with practice and know-how. So here's my priority list for bodies, which may vary from yours:
1) sensor size
3) pixel count
4) focusing capability
5) metering capability
For lenses, it's
0) image size (35mm, APS, or other)
1) image quality (in order: distortion, aberration, vignetting, color, resolution)
2) largest focal number
3) precision manual focusing ability (controllable focus in fine gradation; a tight focus ring)
4) zoom ability
But yes, thrifting lenses (as opposed to bodies) is also good because it's easier to tell if the thing works (aside from metering and focus for computerized setups). With cameras, it can be harder to tell if things are wrong with the machine if you don't have a quick way to test it. You can inspect a lens visually and have a good sense of its shape.