The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Page 3181

Originally Posted by Mox C 


As far as I have seen, a half-canvased suit is still fully fused—it just has canvas in the top half as well.

Originally Posted by troika 

I know right. Sent a PM in the absolute slightest off-hand chance he might be willing to part with it.

Originally Posted by cptjeff 


Thanks. As for canvassing, as a history buff, this is more my area than labels . Basically, it's tradition. Before sewing machines, handstitching was the only way to sew. If you're in Boston, go to the Old State House and look at John Hancock's coat (the bright red one he wore for his inauguration as Governor). Get up close, and look at the stitching. It's a very intricately sewn coat, and every bit by hand. Really something remarkable.

 

Originally Posted by HansderHund 


Short story:
I had the afternoon off sometime in early spring and decided to walk my dog. I sat down in the city center next to an older man that complimented my dog. We started chatting and he was an interesting guy that I found lived near the main street in the city. Fast forward about a month and I see him again and he recognized my dog, so we chatted quickly. I saw him again about a week later while he was sitting and having coffee and he offered a seat at his table. Every time I'd seen him, he was dressed very well. I found out a bit more about him and that he was in his late 80s and worked for the Olympic committee in his home country. He had a lot of interesting stories. Anyway, he goes to light his cigarette and I noticed his lighter and asked him if it was a Dunhill. He got a smile on his face and passed it to me to take a look. It was a vintage gold lighter with silver inlay. He said that few people notice it and that he's used it for 30+ years. I can't imagine the value of it and I found it a bit funny that he carries something like that in his pocket on an every day basis.

Originally Posted by barrelntrigger 

Uhhhh, what...

Originally Posted by Mox C 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/309175/a-sacrifice-to-the-sartorial-gods

Originally Posted by Mox C 

http://www.styleforum.net/a/the-difference-between-fused-and-canvassed-suits-explained

This is my observation.
Full canvas: Canvas down the entire front; no fusing (except collar & cuffs).
Half canvas: Fusing down entire front except lapels. Canvas in upper half and lapels.
Fully fused: Fusing down entire front, including lapels. No canvas.

Originally Posted by GMMcL 


So glad you posted this. Funny enough, I had planned to take apart a licensed Gieves (by HF) and HF customized LP cashmere SC's -- both cheap and harvested for their buttons -- a la the Bodies exhibit, but never got around to it and ended up just pitching them. I'd planned to come at the canvasing from the front, though, rather than in through the lining. I was going to open one whole side and gently peel back all layers, one by one, and leave the other side intact, then set it up on my manikin. Again, though, other priorities intervened and I lost motivation.
V. interesting.

Originally Posted by ATLjon 

I have a moth-eaten Brioni sportcoat that I'll probably do this with. It was $3, so not a big loss.

Originally Posted by ATLjon 

I have a moth-eaten Brioni sportcoat that I'll probably do this with. It was $3, so not a big loss.

Originally Posted by Mox C 


http://www.styleforum.net/a/the-difference-between-fused-and-canvassed-suits-explained
A half-canvased suit has fusing down the front just like a fully fused, though the lapels will get canvas instead of fusing. If they fused only half the front, there would be a line across the fabric where it would suddenly hang differently. You can stop the canvas halfway down since it isn't bound to the fabric. That's why it's called half-canvas and not half-fused.
I looked for one of each type, generally getting them as orphans and cheap, and took them apart. Pictures and diagrams are nice, but it's not the same as taking them apart to see and feel for yourself. I find it easy to identify the multiple types now. I've learned that there are more than just three types, as some "fused" jackets have no canvas at all, and others have a small piece just in the chest.
This is my observation.
Full canvas: Canvas down the entire front; no fusing (except collar & cuffs).
Half canvas: Fusing down entire front except lapels. Canvas in upper half and lapels.
Fully fused: Fusing down entire front, including lapels. No canvas.
And then there are a hodgepodge of items between "fully fused" and "half canvas". The half and full canvas ones I've seen have a second smaller layer in the chest. Some fused jackets have just this layer. That threw me at first, making me think that it was a half-canvas that just ended higher, like in the first photo here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/309175/a-sacrifice-to-the-sartorial-gods
Some "fused" jackets will have just that and canvas in the lapels. They don't have canvas that comes halfway down the front, though. But if there's fusing in the front, it's the entire length of the front.

Originally Posted by Patrologia 

Are you saying that even in a fully canvassed suit the cuffs are fused? I'm a bit confused by this, could you either explain or point me to an explanation/diagram?

Originally Posted by Patrologia 

now that you mention it, I have an Oxxford SC with a tiny but poorly placed hole. All Oxxford are fully canvassed, right? Might be time for some scissors and seam rippers here.
EDIT: OK, so boxcutter, but it is done (the cuff anyway). I found nothing fused there - just a lining material that as you can see is lightly stitched in, and sewn more securely at the seam. It is folded, giving it a bit more stiffness and a tiny bit of roll, but no glue, not even glued to itself.