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The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Page 3181

post #47701 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by troika View Post

I know right. Sent a PM in the absolute slightest off-hand chance he might be willing to part with it.

Short story:

I had the afternoon off sometime in early spring and decided to walk my dog. I sat down in the city center next to an older man that complimented my dog. We started chatting and he was an interesting guy that I found lived near the main street in the city. Fast forward about a month and I see him again and he recognized my dog, so we chatted quickly. I saw him again about a week later while he was sitting and having coffee and he offered a seat at his table. Every time I'd seen him, he was dressed very well. I found out a bit more about him and that he was in his late 80s and worked for the Olympic committee in his home country. He had a lot of interesting stories. Anyway, he goes to light his cigarette and I noticed his lighter and asked him if it was a Dunhill. He got a smile on his face and passed it to me to take a look. It was a vintage gold lighter with silver inlay. He said that few people notice it and that he's used it for 30+ years. I can't imagine the value of it and I found it a bit funny that he carries something like that in his pocket on an every day basis.
post #47702 of 110311
I hit up a store after work yesterday and came across a bunch of Zegna suits and orphaned jackets. Only problem is that they were 6-on-1 double-breasted so they looked uber dated. Not to mention some were olive green. ffffuuuu.gif

I said F it and pick up an orphaned jacket that was a 42R and cheap. I'm gonna frankenstein it by chopping the top nipple buttons and bring the middle two in a little closer.
post #47703 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post


Thanks. As for canvassing, as a history buff, this is more my area than labels biggrin.gif. Basically, it's tradition. Before sewing machines, handstitching was the only way to sew. If you're in Boston, go to the Old State House and look at John Hancock's coat (the bright red one he wore for his inauguration as Governor). Get up close, and look at the stitching. It's a very intricately sewn coat, and every bit by hand. Really something remarkable.

 

Nice write-up..

 

As a side note...

Hancock was governer twice..inaugurated in both 1780 and 1787.

The first sewing machine was invented by Thomas Saint in 1790.

Hand sewn was the only option at the time. Interesting.

post #47704 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by HansderHund View Post


Short story:
I had the afternoon off sometime in early spring and decided to walk my dog. I sat down in the city center next to an older man that complimented my dog. We started chatting and he was an interesting guy that I found lived near the main street in the city. Fast forward about a month and I see him again and he recognized my dog, so we chatted quickly. I saw him again about a week later while he was sitting and having coffee and he offered a seat at his table. Every time I'd seen him, he was dressed very well. I found out a bit more about him and that he was in his late 80s and worked for the Olympic committee in his home country. He had a lot of interesting stories. Anyway, he goes to light his cigarette and I noticed his lighter and asked him if it was a Dunhill. He got a smile on his face and passed it to me to take a look. It was a vintage gold lighter with silver inlay. He said that few people notice it and that he's used it for 30+ years. I can't imagine the value of it and I found it a bit funny that he carries something like that in his pocket on an every day basis.

Nice! There are two ways to handle a treasure like that. Love it and hide it away safely at home on a shelf, or love it and use it all the time. I think he has the right idea


Edited by capnwes - 9/20/12 at 7:23am
post #47705 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelntrigger View Post

Uhhhh, what...

http://www.styleforum.net/a/the-difference-between-fused-and-canvassed-suits-explained

A half-canvased suit has fusing down the front just like a fully fused, though the lapels will get canvas instead of fusing. If they fused only half the front, there would be a line across the fabric where it would suddenly hang differently. You can stop the canvas halfway down since it isn't bound to the fabric. That's why it's called half-canvas and not half-fused.

I looked for one of each type, generally getting them as orphans and cheap, and took them apart. Pictures and diagrams are nice, but it's not the same as taking them apart to see and feel for yourself. I find it easy to identify the multiple types now. I've learned that there are more than just three types, as some "fused" jackets have no canvas at all, and others have a small piece just in the chest.

This is my observation.

Full canvas: Canvas down the entire front; no fusing (except collar & cuffs).
Half canvas: Fusing down entire front except lapels. Canvas in upper half and lapels.
Fully fused: Fusing down entire front, including lapels. No canvas.

And then there are a hodgepodge of items between "fully fused" and "half canvas". The half and full canvas ones I've seen have a second smaller layer in the chest. Some fused jackets have just this layer. That threw me at first, making me think that it was a half-canvas that just ended higher, like in the first photo here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/309175/a-sacrifice-to-the-sartorial-gods
Some "fused" jackets will have just that and canvas in the lapels. They don't have canvas that comes halfway down the front, though. But if there's fusing in the front, it's the entire length of the front.
post #47706 of 110311

So glad you posted this. Funny enough, I had planned to take apart a licensed Gieves (by HF) and HF customized LP cashmere SC's -- both cheap and harvested for their buttons -- a la the Bodies exhibit, but never got around to it and ended up just pitching them. I'd planned to come at the canvasing from the front, though, rather than in through the lining. I was going to open one whole side and gently peel back all layers, one by one, and leave the other side intact, then set it up on my manikin. Again, though, other priorities intervened and I lost motivation.

V. interesting.
post #47707 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mox C View Post

http://www.styleforum.net/a/the-difference-between-fused-and-canvassed-suits-explained

This is my observation.
Full canvas: Canvas down the entire front; no fusing (except collar & cuffs).
Half canvas: Fusing down entire front except lapels. Canvas in upper half and lapels.
Fully fused: Fusing down entire front, including lapels. No canvas.

Are you saying that even in a fully canvassed suit the cuffs are fused? I'm a bit confused by this, could you either explain or point me to an explanation/diagram?
post #47708 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post


So glad you posted this. Funny enough, I had planned to take apart a licensed Gieves (by HF) and HF customized LP cashmere SC's -- both cheap and harvested for their buttons -- a la the Bodies exhibit, but never got around to it and ended up just pitching them. I'd planned to come at the canvasing from the front, though, rather than in through the lining. I was going to open one whole side and gently peel back all layers, one by one, and leave the other side intact, then set it up on my manikin. Again, though, other priorities intervened and I lost motivation.
V. interesting.

 

I have a moth-eaten Brioni sportcoat that I'll probably do this with. It was $3, so not a big loss.

post #47709 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLjon View Post

I have a moth-eaten Brioni sportcoat that I'll probably do this with. It was $3, so not a big loss.

You could make it into an ammo bag when you're done. peepwall[1].gif
post #47710 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLjon View Post

I have a moth-eaten Brioni sportcoat that I'll probably do this with. It was $3, so not a big loss.

now that you mention it, I have an Oxxford SC with a tiny but poorly placed hole. All Oxxford are fully canvassed, right? Might be time for some scissors and seam rippers here.

EDIT: OK, so boxcutter, but it is done (the cuff anyway). I found nothing fused there - just a lining material that as you can see is lightly stitched in, and sewn more securely at the seam. It is folded, giving it a bit more stiffness and a tiny bit of roll, but no glue, not even glued to itself.

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Edited by Patrologia - 9/20/12 at 10:10am
post #47711 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mox C View Post


http://www.styleforum.net/a/the-difference-between-fused-and-canvassed-suits-explained
A half-canvased suit has fusing down the front just like a fully fused, though the lapels will get canvas instead of fusing. If they fused only half the front, there would be a line across the fabric where it would suddenly hang differently. You can stop the canvas halfway down since it isn't bound to the fabric. That's why it's called half-canvas and not half-fused.
I looked for one of each type, generally getting them as orphans and cheap, and took them apart. Pictures and diagrams are nice, but it's not the same as taking them apart to see and feel for yourself. I find it easy to identify the multiple types now. I've learned that there are more than just three types, as some "fused" jackets have no canvas at all, and others have a small piece just in the chest.
This is my observation.
Full canvas: Canvas down the entire front; no fusing (except collar & cuffs).
Half canvas: Fusing down entire front except lapels. Canvas in upper half and lapels.
Fully fused: Fusing down entire front, including lapels. No canvas.
And then there are a hodgepodge of items between "fully fused" and "half canvas". The half and full canvas ones I've seen have a second smaller layer in the chest. Some fused jackets have just this layer. That threw me at first, making me think that it was a half-canvas that just ended higher, like in the first photo here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/309175/a-sacrifice-to-the-sartorial-gods
Some "fused" jackets will have just that and canvas in the lapels. They don't have canvas that comes halfway down the front, though. But if there's fusing in the front, it's the entire length of the front.

 

Ahhhh, man that is so wicked! Sartorial surgeon!!!

post #47712 of 110311
I wore this yesterday, but I only realized this afternoon that it could be a thrift fit.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

shirt: Banana Republic via Buffalo Exchange
pants: Levis 511, 60% off at Urban Outfitters
shoes: Alden, thrifted
post #47713 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrologia View Post

Are you saying that even in a fully canvassed suit the cuffs are fused? I'm a bit confused by this, could you either explain or point me to an explanation/diagram?

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2008/11/collars-dead-giveaway.html

I've come across several full-canvas jackets with the zig-zag stitching. It's not a guarantee that the collar is fused, but it sounds like it is likely the case.
post #47714 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrologia View Post

now that you mention it, I have an Oxxford SC with a tiny but poorly placed hole. All Oxxford are fully canvassed, right? Might be time for some scissors and seam rippers here.
EDIT: OK, so boxcutter, but it is done (the cuff anyway). I found nothing fused there - just a lining material that as you can see is lightly stitched in, and sewn more securely at the seam. It is folded, giving it a bit more stiffness and a tiny bit of roll, but no glue, not even glued to itself.
Oxxford is not likely to have fusing anywhere.

Here's the collar of a Norman Hilton. It's fully canvased up front, but the collar is probably fused, as indicated by the zig-zag stitching.

post #47715 of 110311
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

So glad you posted this. Funny enough, I had planned to take apart a licensed Gieves (by HF) and HF customized LP cashmere SC's -- both cheap and harvested for their buttons -- a la the Bodies exhibit, but never got around to it and ended up just pitching them. I'd planned to come at the canvasing from the front, though, rather than in through the lining. I was going to open one whole side and gently peel back all layers, one by one, and leave the other side intact, then set it up on my manikin. Again, though, other priorities intervened and I lost motivation.
V. interesting.

I didn't have my mannequin when I did this. That's a cool idea. Going in from the front may be problematic though, due to the pockets and such. I should flip them inside-out and redo the photos though, and get a half-canvas in there. That's a ways back on the priorities list though, as you say.
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