Originally Posted by Klobber
I never understood the older Burberry's lines, Prorsum or non Prosum, beats the crap out of me. In this case though London label in tag is a dead giveaway it is not the Prorsum we seek
On the canvassing part: I always thought canvassing was a useful for lapel rolls etc, but I find half canvassed jackets draping just fine. This fully canvassing draping down the sides just makes no bleeding sense to me since they drape well also. I dont geddit
Thanks. As for canvassing, as a history buff, this is more my area than labels
. Basically, it's tradition. Before sewing machines, handstitching was the only way to sew. If you're in Boston, go to the Old State House and look at John Hancock's coat (the bright red one he wore for his inauguration as Governor). Get up close, and look at the stitching. It's a very intricately sewn coat, and every bit by hand. Really something remarkable.
Anyway, canvassing evolved, not just for looks, but to help clothes keep shape in an era where fabrics were a lot crappier on average than today, and where hangars didn't exist and everything was stored in drawers. As with shoes made with leather soles, as with sewing, as with mechanical watches, things were done one way because it was the best way with what was available.
Then comes the Holocaust. Tailors in Germany were, as a rule, Jewish. They killed off most of the people who knew how to make a suit jacket properly, so they had to find a way to do it easily and cheaply. To fill that tailoring void, fusing was born. It only came over to the US in the 60's, and wasn't really mature yet. If you cleaned it one time too many, it would separate, and cause an unfixible bubble on the surface of the suit. As a result, it's only used on cheap suits that aren't expected to look too good or last too long.
Now, the technology is mature, and half canvass is a really respectable compromise between the advantages and costs of traditional construction and the value of modern methods. A modern fused garment is actually a really good value these days- thanks to China (ethics aside, and you really don't want me going down the line on Globalization, I could probably crank out 10 pages explaining it and going down the line with various benefits and fallout effects, and nobody wants that right now) you can get high quality fabrics much higher than ever before, and the glues and plastics in the fusing are mature now, and work much better than their predecessors. It's never gonna be as good as real canvassing, but if price is an object, half canvas is probably the best option on the market these days. As an ancillary point, we're in the golden age of cheap clothing here. Never before in human history (well, assuming you're in the first world with the advantages in the exchange rate that gives you) has cheap clothing been as high quality as it is now. The quality of stitching and fabric that even the cheapest clothes have now would have been unthinkable for anyone but the rich not really all that long ago. Not to mention the quantity of clothing each of us can have, without a second thought. One of my college roomates dressed in a way (though not in a style) that would have been familiar to the vast majority of men only about a century ago (or even less)- a few shirts, a few pairs of socks, one pair of shoes, one outer layer (a hoodie- and in freeze your ass off, NY- he ran between buildings a lot). A suit, with one dress shirt and a pair of cheap dress shoes, for formal occasions. It all fit in one suitcase. I couldn't even conceive of living like that.
And I've gone on a tad too long.