Okay, majorly catching up... some awesome finds lately, I've PM'd a couple of you!
Just a few thoughts:
1) Bills - heck yes, the M3 fit ones are rare. In my experience Bills can be streaky - but they tend to pop up now and again if you're in the right areas where they're sold / worn. Bills and Zanellas are like the Dockers of men's clothing stores, sort of, if that makes sense. There is an awesome thread somewhere on AAAC that, I believe, Steve Smith posted "quizzing" people on Bills-spotting-skills and the posters in that thread offered up some very good advice. There really is no one thing to look for, just a variety. One thing to keep in mind is that Bills will never have vertical stitching on their belt loops, and their belt loops are attached somewhat differently than a lot of other makers do. Yes, a lot of their pants are somewhat heavier - but they do also make a full run of other stuff. I have some very light chamois cloth ones that I like quite a bit in the summer, and their cottin poplins are great too. Don't limit your search to the standard khaki/british khaki Original Twills, though those ARE the most prevalent finds. There are seersuckers, reds, blue, brown, green canvas-type pants, moleskins, wool pants, jeans, shorts, and don't forget the usual models in the Olive and Mushroom colors. All in all, if you pay enough attention and spot enough Bills, you will be able to spot them just walking down the rack. It took me a LONG time to get to that point, though. Other things to note with Bills: be sure you check every pocket corner for flaws. It's semi-common to see a back pocket with a rip, or a bottom-of-a-front-pocket with a rip, particularly since Bills typically feature an on-seam pocket that adds stress to the pocket -end-bar-tacks if the wearer tries to access the pockets, while, say, driving. I'm guilty of this myself.
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Finally, look out for the Bullard Field Pants. They are motherf-ing iron. If you arrange them right, they will stand up ON THEIR OWN. I have never found any in a thrift (mine were a lucky Ebay grab) but they're essentially the top line Bill's makes in khakis.
2) Lubiam - meh. I feel like, well, there's better stuff out there. I think it's the Lubiam 1911 line that's maybe worth grabbing? But it's been quite awhile since I looked at it so that could have just been a diffusion line, I don't remember.
3) Not answering questions - whether here or elsewhere - is at your own peril. Quite some time back, I answered an interminable round of questions from someone about three different suits. Thing is, he ended up buying two of them, shipped to Australia, at an arguably premium price. That paid most of our rent that month. I realize that's uncommon... but still. Also, as a buyer, I would feel remiss if I didn't ensure things were to my liking - or at least that I was adequately informed. I hate those question sessions too... but when I'm a buyer I want to know what I'm getting. This is particularly true when things shrink or fit oddly - exhibit A: XL or XXL RLPL polos are almost never what you would think of as "XL" or "XXL" - if I got one without measurements based on the size tag the fool would be me.
I do agree outsole measurements are next to useless, though, and I am quite amused by Steve's way to solve it.
That said, as someone who really needs an E width, sometimes an outsole measurement gives me a hint as to whether it fits narrow or wide. No more than a hint, but still.
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