or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Page 1545  

post #23161 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroFan View Post

Yep, that was my thought as well.  I don't think it's satin, so I'm guessing it's a (quite outlandish!) suit jacket....which means even more that I need to find those damn pants, haha. 

The plain buttons are no indication, I'm afraid; it was very common for British dinner jackets of that era to have simple black horn buttons with a raised rim. I must admit, from my monitor, it looks as though the lapels are a different fabric from the rest of the jacket, and I would have said a grosgrain with a fairly pronounced horizontal rib - is that the case? If so it is definitely a dinner jacket. You should certainly try for the trousers, but in my experience dinner jackets are often, for some reason, separated from their trousers. I hope you find them. That said, black barathea of that era is easier to find a match for than many fabrics. As to Austin Reed, many British men's clothing retailers started off offering at least a bespoke or made-to-measure option, not excluding Burton's. Indeed, Austin Reed still offers one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroFan View Post

Alright, so I just picked up something quite interesting.  I've been getting killed at work and haven't had time to thrift at all, so I stopped for the first time since Friday and found this, which immediately struck me as really nice and relatively modern looking.  

 

350x467px-LL-d900b2d5_100_4879.jpeg


Then I look inside and see this:


350x263px-LL-4a4968e1_100_4882.jpeg
Wow.  Definitely did not expect that this jacket was nearly 50 years old!!  it's in amazing condition for its age.  There are no moth holes at all on the exterior (2 tiny ones in the lining), the only place that has a little bit of wear is one of the shoulders, and one of the hand sewn button holes has unraveled, but otherwise it's in very nice shape. But most perplexing to me is how modern it looks!  Aside from the 3-buttons, nothing screams ancient about it...it's double side vented, has reasonable width lapels, etc.  So my question is, can I get ANY info on this.  It's definitely got all the hallmarks of a well made bespoke SR piece, but I've never heard of the SR maker so they're obviously (probably?) no longer around.  Anyone got any info?  Also, is this an orphaned suit jacket or an SC?  I'll check tomorrow for the pants, but I didn't see them on a quick glance tonight.  More pics below of the craftsmanship. 


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x263px-LL-477fa75f_100_4887.jpeg
350x263px-LL-cc9d7fe6_100_4889.jpeg
350x467px-LL-ac7533e2_100_4890.jpeg
350x467px-LL-66f31859_100_4892.jpeg


That's a handsome jacket. I think that you said the dinner jacket was made for the same person? If so it is interesting to note that they could afford to move their custom from Austin Reed in the 1940s to Savile Row in the 1960s! I haven't tracked down much information about Sandon & Co; they feature, I'm sure, in Richard Walker's Savile Row Story, but they aren't in the index and the only reference I have found is to them offering (along with Poole's to make cheap uniforms for troops in the Boer War, thus taking them back to at least 1900). However, I believe they were a well-respected firm, albeit long defunct or merged by 1988. I used to own a 1927 tailcoat made by them, which was very good. With the coat and the possible dinner jacket, you have some nice pieces - well done!
post #23162 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by catside View Post


Meltonian shoe stretch spray. You spray inside, and walk around until dries. if not enough repeat the process. It will fit like a glove following this. Very comfortable. Just did it to Ferragamos I bought from Nataku. Worked great, got lots of compliments.


You have made my day, sir!

post #23163 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Jordan View Post

The plain buttons are no indication, I'm afraid; it was very common for British dinner jackets of that era to have simple black horn buttons with a raised rim.

This I did not know. Thanks for the education.
post #23164 of 138728

Can someone tell me what the reach through pockets that let you get into your pants pockets through a coat are called? I'm trying to list a nice Harris Tweed overcoat I found and I can't remember what they're called, and google searches have been fruitless. Thanks!

post #23165 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeH View Post

This I did not know. Thanks for the education.

You're very welcome; I can bore on for hours* about vintage clothing if given a prompt, so thank you for giving me the opportunity!

*oops - channelling my wife for a minute there
post #23166 of 138728

Absolutely fascinating stuff!!  Yeah, the donor definitely had no trouble with money.  I looked him up and he was quite a successful guy.  Anyhow, thanks a bunch for the info, it's really interesting stuff.  I get such a kick out of the history of this kind of stuff.  
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Jordan View Post


The plain buttons are no indication, I'm afraid; it was very common for British dinner jackets of that era to have simple black horn buttons with a raised rim. I must admit, from my monitor, it looks as though the lapels are a different fabric from the rest of the jacket, and I would have said a grosgrain with a fairly pronounced horizontal rib - is that the case? If so it is definitely a dinner jacket. You should certainly try for the trousers, but in my experience dinner jackets are often, for some reason, separated from their trousers. I hope you find them. That said, black barathea of that era is easier to find a match for than many fabrics. As to Austin Reed, many British men's clothing retailers started off offering at least a bespoke or made-to-measure option, not excluding Burton's. Indeed, Austin Reed still offers one.
That's a handsome jacket. I think that you said the dinner jacket was made for the same person? If so it is interesting to note that they could afford to move their custom from Austin Reed in the 1940s to Savile Row in the 1960s! I haven't tracked down much information about Sandon & Co; they feature, I'm sure, in Richard Walker's Savile Row Story, but they aren't in the index and the only reference I have found is to them offering (along with Poole's to make cheap uniforms for troops in the Boer War, thus taking them back to at least 1900). However, I believe they were a well-respected firm, albeit long defunct or merged by 1988. I used to own a 1927 tailcoat made by them, which was very good. With the coat and the possible dinner jacket, you have some nice pieces - well done!


 

post #23167 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by davesmith View Post

Size on these bad boys?

10 C :/
post #23168 of 138728
Stumbled upon this handsome devil a few days ago. I guess I should take up Yachting now...

197

576

197
post #23169 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by grendel View Post

Can someone tell me what the reach through pockets that let you get into your pants pockets through a coat are called? I'm trying to list a nice Harris Tweed overcoat I found and I can't remember what they're called, and google searches have been fruitless. Thanks!

Pass-through pockets?
post #23170 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrenkin View Post


Pass-through pockets?



+1

 

post #23171 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrenkin View Post


Pass-through pockets?
Quote:
Originally Posted by capnwes View Post



+1

 


Thanks!

 

post #23172 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by lastdonb View Post

[/URL] 350x585px-LL-bfb0d917_IMAG0212.jpeg

Is lining work like this typically hand done? I've noticed a few suits at the GW with this pick-stitching on the linings but I don't know it's easily fakeable or any reliable indicator of quality.
post #23173 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Towers View Post

Is lining work like this typically hand done? I've noticed a few suits at the GW with this pick-stitching on the linings but I don't know it's easily fakeable or any reliable indicator of quality.

It's easily done not easily imitated. It does, however, take time and therefore is mainly featured on high quality garments with a price to match.
post #23174 of 138728


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Towers View Post


Is lining work like this typically hand done? I've noticed a few suits at the GW with this pick-stitching on the linings but I don't know it's easily fakeable or any reliable indicator of quality.

 

From Hart Schaffner Marx, their "Gold Trumpeter" line will include the gold pick stitching. This sport coat retails for $550. In the stores, there is also gold thread in the shoulder seams to differentiate the Gold Trumpeter line (they also produce full suits and separate trousers in Gold Trumpeter)
 

 

Gold Trumpeter Black Blazer

HSM Gold Trumpeter Black Blazer
 

Gold Trumpeter - This model elevates the luxury of the Hart Schaffner Marx brand. World class piece goods are used exclusively in all Gold Trumpeter garments. Trim details such as wing facing in the coat and gold pick stitching are the hallmarks of the Gold Trumpeter garment.

American Classic Fit - Traditional silhouette with hand set sleeves to provide a natural shoulder and a floating canvas chest piece to maintain structure
  • Single Breasted Jacket with Center Vent
  • Classic Two Button Silhouette with Notch Lapel
  • Besom Pockets
  • Mid-Weight Fabric - Perfect for Year-Round Use
  • 100% Wool
  • Made in USA
  • Dry Clean Only

 

post #23175 of 138728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenos View Post

Nicola Blasi SC; double-vented; size 38

Interesting! That's definitely the same as that "Abla Fashions for Men" that I found! Would you mind posting a photo of the fabric tag? I'm curious if that one is also made by Caruso... and I imagine you wouldn't mind knowing either! wink.gif

BTW, some of the HSM GT *recent* stuff is very, very nice - I don't know about as good as Hickey Freeman (recent silver label), but they're close to it IMO.

Today produced two interesting things:

Karl Lagerfeld Paris DB suit, grey glenplaid, 40L - am I correct in thinking that's a Hickey Freeman maker tag? I have no idea what it'll go for, but it looked too cool to leave behind:

P1070154.JPGWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
imgP1070158.JPG

Also, this interesting patch-pocketed sport coat:

P1070160.JPG

Which opens up into...

P1070161.JPG

HOLY COW! My eyes hurt looking at that! The lining, sadly, is damaged along the back seam - I'm debating whether to sew it myself or have it repaired at a shop before selling it. Oddly enough, it's only tagged size L and made in India just like the shirts. Given how much the shirts are, I'd hate to see how much the sport coats are! Just a bit floored to find that, honestly, not because it's valuable but... people actually BUY these things originally? confused.gif
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
This thread is locked  
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread